Hacking a Logitech PS2 controller into a Sony PS2 controller

Includes PS2, Xbox 1, GameCube (but not the Phantom Game Console)

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jdmlight
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Hacking a Logitech PS2 controller into a Sony PS2 controller

Post by jdmlight »

After hearing a few people say how great the Logitech PS2 controllers are, I picked one up at MGC for pretty cheap. ($12 iirc) And I must say, this is the most responsive wireless controller I think I've ever used. I can't notice any lag at all (I noticed a little tiny bit on the Wavebird to give you an idea of where my tolerance of these things lie).

But... I'm not really a fan of the controller itself. A few of the buttons will get stuck (it's quite annoying to have square/triangle stick in God of War 2 :evil: ). I mostly notice this with square, triangle, and L2 (light attack, heavy attack, magic attack, respectively) as those are the buttons used most often in God of War 2. I tried cleaning the buttons - no dice. I also don't like the AA batteries - they're heavy and add quite a bit of bulk to the back of the controller.

This got me thinking...why wouldn't I try to squeeze the Logitech internals inside a standard Sony Dualshock 2 controller with a rechargeable battery? I actually do like the buttons on the standard PS2 controller (mostly because they don't get stuck :wink: ) and I like how the controller feels without the massive AAs on the back.

To start off, here's a pic of the Logitech internals:
Image

Looks like it could be a tight squeeze to fit this into a standard PS2 controller. But hey, I'm up for a challenge!

Next, I've done some current draw measurements to get an idea of what batteries I should be shooting for:
Searching for receiver: 26.7 mA
Connected and mashing buttons rapidly: 6.3 mA :shock:
Mashing buttons + rumble: 60-100 mA (depending on whether one or both motors were rumbling, this is difficult to measure exactly because rumble isn't constant)

This is a lot lower than I thought. Most of the time it'll be drawing 6.3mA as the rumble motors aren't vibrating that often.

With that in mind, on to battery selection! The smallest LiPo that Batteryspace sells is this one: http://www.batteryspace.com/polymerli-i ... arate.aspx At 6.0mm x 30mm x 50mm, it would certainly fit behind the circuit board as far as length and width goes, but there's not enough room for 6.0mm of depth (just by eyeballing it looking through my transparent blue controller). That battery is also 750 mAh, which, if both rumble motors were going 100% of the time, would last about 7.5 hours. But since you're not using your PS2 controller as a vibrator (at least I hope not), you'd get much longer runtimes than that. If you were to turn off vibration, it would last a whopping 119 hours on one charge. I don't know about you, but I never play any game for 5 days straight. :lol:

With fit issues in mind, I started looking around Batteryspace some more. I came across these: http://www.batteryspace.com/nimhrecharg ... 5x9mm.aspx They're 1.2v 320mAh NiMh button cells. Initially I thought a button cell wouldn't provide enough current, but after doing the above measurements, it actually would work fine. What's nice is that two of these (to get to 2.4v, which would power this controller just fine, it runs fine on NiMh AA rechargeables now) would fit in place of one of the vibrator motors. :D I would get rid of the vibrator motor with the small rotating weight because it's not used as much and the one with the big rotating weight is what provides most of the vibration anyway. (TBH I'm not sure that I would even miss having vibration - I didn't miss it on my Wavebird when I had my Gamecube)

A 320 mAh battery would last at least 5.5 hours (if I get rid of one vibrator motor the controller would use ~60 mAh whilst vibrating). That would be plenty of runtime for me. If I decide to go on a marathon gaming spree, I can turn off the vibration and get about 50 hours of play time.

Now, I've come into an interesting problem: how would I charge these NiMh button cells? Batteryspace's smallest NiMh smart charger states that it has to be used with at least 600 mAh batteries. :? But there must be a way to charge these button cells; otherwise, why would they exist?

Also, I know vibration doesn't matter that much to me - does anyone feel that vibration is really necessary? I could get much longer runtimes if I got rid of both vibrator motors.
--John (and please call me John, it's really weird to be called by my username)
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jdmlight
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Re: Hacking a Logitech PS2 controller into a Sony PS2 controller

Post by jdmlight »

Bump&Update:
Progress! I got the two analog sticks desoldered. I now have greater respect for those portablizers needing to remove sticks for their portables, what a pita that was.
Image

I still am looking for info on how to charge these 320mAh NiMH cells. Any tips/links/spec sheets for charging ICs/circuit diagrams?
--John (and please call me John, it's really weird to be called by my username)
Fight MS Paint abominations! If you don't have a camera, go here, and pick something 3 megapixels or higher.
vskid
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Re: Hacking a Logitech PS2 controller into a Sony PS2 controller

Post by vskid »

I had some GBA battery packs that just had a 3v, 300mA power adapter to charge them, no circuitry at all. As long as the current is low, the cells shouldn't be hurt by a little overcharging.
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jdmlight
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Re: Hacking a Logitech PS2 controller into a Sony PS2 controller

Post by jdmlight »

vskid wrote:I had some GBA battery packs that just had a 3v, 300mA power adapter to charge them, no circuitry at all. As long as the current is low, the cells shouldn't be hurt by a little overcharging.
That would work if they were NiCd, but I didn't think you could slow-charge NiMH. From Batteryspace's charger info page:
Batteryspace Charging Nickel-Based Batteries page wrote:Nickel-metal-hydride should be rapid charged rather than slow charged. Because of poor overcharge absorption, the trickle charge must be lower than that of nickel-cadmium and is usually around 0.05C. This explains why the original nickel-cadmium charger cannot be used nickel-metal-hydride.

It is difficult, if not impossible, to slow-charge a nickel-metal-hydride. At a C?rate of 0.1-0.3C, the voltage and temperature profiles fail to exhibit defined characteristics to measure the full charge state accurately and the charger must rely on a timer. Harmful overcharge can occur if a partially or fully charged battery is charged with a fixed timer. The same occurs if the battery has aged and can only hold 50 instead of 100% charge. Overcharge could occur even though the battery feels cool to the touch.
Which is why I'm not sure about just trickle-charging a NiMH battery. Now, if those were NiMH batteries and it worked fine, then I'll try trickle-charging.
--John (and please call me John, it's really weird to be called by my username)
Fight MS Paint abominations! If you don't have a camera, go here, and pick something 3 megapixels or higher.
vskid
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Re: Hacking a Logitech PS2 controller into a Sony PS2 controller

Post by vskid »

They were AAA NiMH, ~900mAh. I don't know if they really liked being charged that way, but they lasted a decent amount of charges. Could you squeeze AAAs in? That would make finding a charger easier.
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jdmlight
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Re: Hacking a Logitech PS2 controller into a Sony PS2 controller

Post by jdmlight »

vskid wrote:They were AAA NiMH, ~900mAh. I don't know if they really liked being charged that way, but they lasted a decent amount of charges. Could you squeeze AAAs in? That would make finding a charger easier.
Hmm, potentially in the controller handle. Thanks for the advice, I'll look into this later tonight. (AAAs would last longer too :D )
--John (and please call me John, it's really weird to be called by my username)
Fight MS Paint abominations! If you don't have a camera, go here, and pick something 3 megapixels or higher.
jdmlight
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Re: Hacking a Logitech PS2 controller into a Sony PS2 controller

Post by jdmlight »

It looks like I could fit AAAs potentially into the controller handle. :D It would be snug, so I'm going to try this a little later once everything is all set to go in.

Alright, I hit a little snag. WTF is this little chip on the L1/L2 shoulder button board? Click for huge version:
Image
The pads aren't wired directly like I thought they would be (you know, where one wire is ground, then there's one wire for each button, for a total of three wires). Anyone know what that little chip does? All of the other buttons on this controller are just plain old pads that are easy to rewire. :?
--John (and please call me John, it's really weird to be called by my username)
Fight MS Paint abominations! If you don't have a camera, go here, and pick something 3 megapixels or higher.
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