Sorry for the early bump, but here's a rough sketch of the schematic/pinouts:
The capacitors are simple 3.3uF ceramics, and the resistor arrays are 51 ohm.
For those that don't know, a resistor array (network) looks like a group of resistors smashed together into one component. In this case, there's 4 resistors to a network. Each resistor in the array simply acts like a normal resistor.
ShockSlayer wrote:Now, how about we see how to make a permanent jumper pack.
What caps/resistors go where?
Skyone wrote:Sorry for the early bump, but here's a rough sketch of the schematic/pinouts:
The capacitors are simple 3.3uF ceramics, and the resistor arrays are 51 ohm.
For those that don't know, a resistor array (network) looks like a group of resistors smashed together into one component. In this case, there's 4 resistors to a network. Each resistor in the array simply acts like a normal resistor.
for my portable, i made a support for my relocated slot out of metal that is screwed into the sides of the board where there is metal coating and some screw holes, i was afraid that the supports might be touching a contact (even though they prob werent) and then I went so far as to wrap the metal pieces with electrical tape
will i have any problems so long as the metal supports arent touching any connections on the board?
A hint for those attempting this: be careful with the flux. I found this out the hard way on a different project. Flux is corrosive, that's why it works. In fine-pitch situations like this it's best to clean off the flux afterwards, even if it's a no clean flux, just to be sure. It also provide the advantage of helping to remove any stubborn little near-microscopic balls/chunks of solder that inevitably get jammed in between pins on something like this. Not to mention that some kinds of flux are actually somewhat conductive. So if you have mysterious random problems, check for fragments and clean your flux off.
To remove flux, I use 99% isoprophyl alcohol. I don't use rubbing alcohol because that has some water in it and leaves a residue. Dip a medium/hard bristle toothbrush in the alcohol, wipe of excess, and brush the contacts like brushing teeth. I find it works very well and cleans up soldering jobs quite nicely.
Emulation isn't accurate. There is no substitute for real hardware!
Frankly I don't understand any of those numbers you guys have been talking about.
All I need is a picture to tell where to solder things I'll just get some flux on the wires and be fine.
The problem is that the picture of the wiring that sifuf did is too blurry for me to see, all I need is a pic to be fine, does anyone have one that's clear?
So if you have mysterious random problems, check for fragments and clean your flux off.
