Plexiglass Cut Methods?

HotDog-Cart · Post by **HotDog-Cart** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:44 am

Hey guys. I'm picking up a sheet of 35in length x 27inch wide 3mm plexiglass for $40.

Thats the cheapest its here in town, sounds pretty steep but at homedepot it would have ran me $113.95.

Now a few questions.

Is this thick enough to make a laptop case with? I could have got 6mm thick but the guy at the store said its $50 and it can break easier from tension (since its tighter and denser).

How can I cut this using house hold items?
(Like Exacto Knife, Dremel, Electric Saw, etc)

Whats the easiest way to cut it?

Thanks.

mothatrucka · Post by **mothatrucka** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:55 am

I'd go for the 6mm stuff. It's more likely to break if you're sitting there lobbing baseballs at a window made of the stuff. For what you're using it for, it'll give you a bit more stability. The 3mm will work, just make sure it doesn't flex where you don't want it to. Small cross-braces can easily prevent this.

As for cutting, there's a lot of methods.

X-Acto or Utility Knife: Use a straight-edge or template and score the edge you want heavily. Snap off with pliers.

Dremel: Cutting discs are nice, but they tend to melt through rather than give a clean cut. You'll need to clean the disc off or it will break easily. Drill bits also work.

Electric saw: I have a friend who swears by the carbide grit blades, but I find it gives a really chipped and messy edge. It's too aggressive.

Hot nail: Wonderful for screen cut-outs, etc. Use electrical tape to secure a standard steel nail in a pair of locking pliers. Heat the nail in a propane torch until it's red-hot. Use it to melt through the plexi and cut out your hole. You may need to chip the edge clean, but it works perfectly. Kind of smelly, so you may want to do it outside, but it is my absolutely favorite method. It would prolly work really well with a crappy soldering iron tip, too, but I haven't tried that yet.

HotDog-Cart · Post by **HotDog-Cart** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 10:01 am

I've already purchased the 3mm as the 6mm wouldnt be in for a few days, and I need it now.

So, what do you mean by cross braces?

My case is pretty small, not a lot of weight in it. Just a dreamcast inside. (Yet It will have a 17inch monitor resting ontop of it.)

Also, what about a heated exacto knife?

mothatrucka · Post by **mothatrucka** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 10:03 am

You'll be fine with the 3mm then. As for the cross-braces, if it flexes or bows in a way you don't want it to, just cut a very thin strip of plexi and super-glue it across where the problem is. Screw posts will also help keep it rigid and spaced out properly. You may not need any at all, it depends on how everything fits inside.

HotDog-Cart · Post by **HotDog-Cart** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 10:06 am

Could you maybe draw a diagram, I don't really understand the cross brace idea. (See, this is what happens if you go 2 days without sleep due to having no sleep pills. -_-)

mothatrucka · Post by **mothatrucka** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 11:18 am

So for the cross brace, you have your sheet of plexi:

__________________________________________

If it doesn't stay rigid all the way across, just glue a very small bar where it's sinking or flexing. Like this:

__________________________________________
[_]

Going back and looking around, you prolly won't need it. I don't recall seeing any on Bacteria's or Minkster's plexi cases. Might just be overkill.

And in answer to your above question, I've never thought to use a heated X-Acto knife, but I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work.

HotDog-Cart · Post by **HotDog-Cart** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 11:57 am

I think I get what you mean. I'll ask for more help on the cross brace IF it starts to sink. I played around with the plexiglass, seems pretty durable.