Bacteria's Multi-Console System: Screen+Case+N64 - FINISHED

[bacteria]

Kyo - Sorry, didn't see you post you made about the desoldering braid.

I find the best method is to press a hot soldering iron onto the joint, with enough force so that the tip of the iron goes through the braid enough to touch the solder joint, then the braid can suck the solder up. If you can't get all the solder out, apply a little solder to the joint and then use the braid and soldering iron again.


Time to get on with some assembly work:

Removed the tact switch (Z button) as it was a bit high, and not needed anyway.

Trimmed off some of the excess mobo on the bottom left as it gets in the way on the N64 mobo.



Trimmed off a bit more for good measure. Moved the joystick wires across a bit and covered the area in electrical tape to stop a short.



Hot glued the N64 mobo in place, on the corners. Built a topping over the joystick area from the screen section.



More electrical tape to stop a short. I also soldered wires for the composite and audio, so I can connect wires to them later.



Controller hot glued in place - glued on the bottom area, and a bead under the other end (so it is the same height).





I can't test the system anymore until I wire everything up and do the cart slot relocation; in other words, when it is virtually finished.

[bacteria]

This sucks. I lost nearly 2 pages of postings (I was well into page 10) and lost about 2500 viewings of my total when the last 2 weeks of postings got lost on the server.

I can confirm that after lots of testing and tweaking, etc, the issue I had with the joystick is resolved and the system works great - I had interference from adjacent cables making the joystick erratic. Fixed now. Also, using the SuperPad controller, the orientation of the joystick is the same as for the GameCube, etc, so I don't need to have the joystick rotate anymore. I also discovered that the GameCube joystick is not as good (centering) as the slightly taller one from a PS1 controller (about 2mm taller) I was using before. This also needed to be identified by trial and error!

Anyway, I will put a summary of the lost posts here in due course along with further updates when I have the chance (tomorrow?).


I intend to have my own website (after I finish this part of the project) which will miss all the ongoing WIP postings I have here and just have lots of pics and a how-to guide; a comprehensive step-by-step instruction without reams of dialogue. It will be interesting! I think given all the projects this WIP will include, it makes sense. Also then, if this server is down or I can't use it because it is too slow or it deletes my posts in the future, it won't matter; people who want to see my projects can just visit my site then. It will only cost me about £5 a month.

[bacteria]

As the server is so slow at the moment, I prefer to get on with my project work rather than waiting several minutes for a page to load on this forum at the moment.

I have been looking at web site providers and can get 1.5Gb upload space and unlimited bandwidth and 99.99% uptime, and also php forum facilities, all for £4.99 a month, including domain name, etc. Very interesting!

My intentions are therefore to crack on with my project, give some updates as and when the BenHeck forum is running; then spend time developing my website, upload my project work, then start the SNES (part 2 of the project). I want to use the BenHeck site for regular postings and my site for a more detailed and relevant version and also have exclusives. I only got onto this idea due to the issues on this forum at the moment. I will not only keep referring people to the BenHeck site via my projects, but will of course encourage people to visit my own site too. No competition though (i'm not planning at the moment on selling my work), I do like the idea however of having a site dedicated to my projects! - also I will make it ideal for anyone wanting to make their own systems from scratch - one stop shop if you like

Anyway, a pic of the current system working below - proves the memory card works fine as Tonic Trouble doesn't let you get to this screen if it thinks the memory card is faulty. The joystick works great, etc. I can now concentrate on making the rest of the casing for the system and making it look nice.

[bacteria]

Having problems at the moment. Got Donkey Kong working great; joystick working, A, B and C buttons worked nicely. Then tried Tonic Trouble - joystick didn't respond to up and down (!) yet does on Donkey Kong (!). Thought I would try Doom - strange movements and kept registering a button being pressed which wasn't; (!).

Might be the N64 controller is shot, but might be wiring interference - not sure at this stage, need to do lots of testing. Strange all is fine for some games and not others - will let you know what the issue is - probably a fault in the controller... I'm not getting issues with frying N64 mobos, but I am getting issues with frying controllers!!

[Sharp Sapphire]

I have been looking at web site providers and can get 1.5Gb upload space and unlimited bandwidth and 99.99% uptime, and also php forum facilities, all for £4.99 a month, including domain name, etc. Very interesting!

Unlimited bandwith is impossible.

Don't throw the whole 'ben has unlimited blah', because it is not possible.

You are looking into whats called an overseller host, they are generally slow, inexpensive, and will boot you off after you use up too much for them to be happy (Generally way below the amount of space you have)

[bacteria]

Sharp Sapphire - thanks for the comments.

I did some research and found this site - rated as the best provider apparently - www.hostpapa.co.uk

This is what you get - pretty impressive I think (also you can have free plug-ins as it uses SohoLauncher).



When I get my project done, I will get the web site going, I need to have a decent amount of quality stuff on it otherwise people won't want to visit it much. I won't diminish my input on this forum, that won't change!


On the project subject, after lots of testing, over DAYS; I think I have finally found the issue. It doesn't appear to be interference in the lines, it appears to be a problem with the wiring in the NES D-pad I did before. I will have to remove it from the case and check I don't have any rogue connections there. I finally twigged the problem as Donkey Kong (doesn't use D-pad) worked great, but Tonic Trouble and Doom can use the D-pad instead of the joystick; so was making the joystick work strangely. This explains the issues I thought I had with the joystick before! Quite a headscratcher.

Last night, I rigged up some tact switches for the D-pad connections and the original joystick to the N64 controller - all fine. Resoldered the joystick wires back to the project, all fine. No slow or erratic movements in Doom and the D-pad worked fine. This has to mean that the fault is with the D-pad mobo connections. At least I have narrowed the problem and can resolve it. I took the D-pad work I did before as gospel, I didn't expect to have a problem there, which is why it took ages before I honed the problem to its connections (must be a short).

[WhatULive4]

I won't diminish my input on this forum, that won't change!

All this talk of setting up your own website, I thought you were getting sick of these forums. Especially after you lost a couple pages worth of your portables progress.

[bacteria]

No, far from it WhatULive4.

I was annoyed at the time when I lost a lot of posts, and the forum was working so slowly I didn't know if it were going to revive itself. I was also concerned that if the downtime went on for much longer that many active people here would leave and those of us left would have a dying forum (like on AcidMods). I don't want that. Anyway the forum is up to very fast service at the moment, which is excellent. I was a bit miffed before, but that is in the past and forgotten now.

I gain too much enjoyment and benefit from this site to leave, (I am addicted) and I like to help others with advice. What this downtime did do was to make me think about my own website, and the more I thought about it the better the idea became. I will therefore do it. In a way, I have the downtime of this site to thank as I wouldn't have entertained this as a serious concept otherwise.

When I posted in Forum 42 asking about other relevant sites (no-one has really mentioned any in the replies yet), my reasoning was actually:

1) Give me other sites to look at when BenHeck is down or running badly.

2) Learn other tips from other forums, which could be useful here or for my work.

2) Promote the BenHeck site on other forums - I get postings on other forums to say "love your work", etc; I am certainly known elsewhere; which means they visited the BenHeck forum as I linked my projects to here by giving the hyperlink to my projects here - a bit cheeky, but never mind! I am aware that we have some new members on this forum as a result as they have been encouraged to come here, so it clearly works. I think I am doing "my bit"!

3) Promote my site (when it is up) from the various forums too, of course; although I will need to make it somewhat more interesting than my postings here in order to get regular traffic. I will make it structured and in sections.


Update on the project - managed to find the faults - I actually have three to resolve - D-pad down, right and left work fine, joystick works properly and nicely; however D-pad up connection is faulty - I will find out why. I used 4 tact switches for the LS and 4 for the RS, they are sending faulty signals, so this also needs resolving. That is why it took so much investigation - one fault is easy to locate, three is hard!

Once I have this resolved, it will be plain sailing and full steam ahead. I had concerns before that at the last hurdle, the concept I had designed wasn't going to work; however it looks like a few wiring issues instead and the concept is solid. I can't just link wire A>B as per normal in this project, it is more like A>C C>D D>B. For each connection and all wires. All wires are hidden too behind the system. One little error and hours of error finding to locate problem. Good thing I have a good multimeter (cheap, but makes an audible noise when doing a continuity test which is great). Great fun (!). Whoop (sarcasm). At least when the problem is resolved I won't be plagued with any such issues on any of my other projects working with this system.

[bacteria]

Oh, here we go again, mega slow server.


I made a decision - I have decided to re-do this project from scratch, although I will use the same electronics as before (but redo the wiring), which will save me some time and cost.

I am going to start the project again for the following reasons:

( 1 ) I can make the case better and also use 3mm perspex for the front and not 2mm as now, so the case is rigid (better).

( 2 ) It is no good with the system working with some things and not others, it needs to be completely reliable. I have used wires which are too thin and have interference in the lines which is causing me headaches. It is no point making it work for the N64 and then being plagued with more issues with other systems - I need this perfect. I have spent a long time trying to resolve the issues, I may as well eliminate them all together by starting the project again from scratch.

( 3 ) I need to use two cart slots instead of one, so I have Ground between each trace; to remove the interference. I also need to use slightly thicker wiring too. I will buy several metres of wiring tomorrow for the project work.

( 4 ) I can make the system even thinner if I start again - maybe shave off about 5-7mm off it. This will be really thin considering. To do this I might need to make the case slightly wider (I need to rework this out).

( 5 ) The system half doesn't secure itself properly to the screen half, I need to make it so, and reverse the slots from the top of the case to the bottom to achieve this.

( 6 ) The two batteries are at the top at the moment, so the system is a bit top heavy. I might be able to have one at the top and one at the bottom and make it more evenly weighted.

( 7 ) Incorporate a couple of extra features into the system.

( 8 ) I might revert back to using tact switches and experiment with foam to try and give a plastic button more play and make it feel more like a rubber contact pad. I need to experiment. Individual rubber button contacts are not easy to keep in place, as I have discovered.

( 9 ) make the joysticks enclosed in the screen by using different joystick tops. This will make the system casing far easier and smoother.


Basically, I will need to re-design from scratch, although I can assure you this new system will be better than my last one; I can eliminate the flaws. I have learnt from minor mistakes, and intend to improve on the project.

Over the next weeks I don't intend to post pics of the ongoing work on this project, what I will do is post some choice pics on this site when the screen section case is completed and more with the N64 part completed; and provide links to my website with far more information on the project for further reading....

Thus, it will be a while before you see my version 2, although not too long...

[Tibia]

Dang, I'm sorry to hear about the setback. I'm glad to know you're still going to plow ahead, though. Isn't learning from your mistakes fun? JK. Anyway, I eagerly await the redesign!

[WhatULive4]

I wouldn't call this a setback at all! I can't wait to see the new setup. When I see projects that are haywired together I really don't see what the point is. If you are going to do something, do it right. If it isn't right the first time do it again!!!

So at your pace you should be done tomorrow right?

[bacteria]

Yes, had to make compromises with the wiring, etc - by starting again I can make it tidy. Yes, this has to be right, no bodge job. Yes, learning is fun and learning from your mistakes is important in life. It is just a pity I spent 100 hours plus on this project to then start again on it! Nevermind.

I am probably going to have to make the case a couple of centimetres wider and longer, not sure yet. I will have the universal slots vertical not horizontal now and on either side, and push the system half into the screen half; this will make it solid.

It will take a lot of work to do this, so will take weeks, as some days I can't spend any time on project work, some days a couple of hours and some days all day (not weekends).

Very tempting to start a new thread, but I want to give great impact to my new website when I get it online!

[Life of Brian]

It is just a pity I spent 100 hours plus on this project to then start again on it! Nevermind.

Ah yes but it's the journey to a new portable that is so fun and fascinating, isn't it? I know many here agree that building the portable is often more fun and interesting than actually playing it, although the quest to build a portable that meets all my expectations has always been an earnest pursuit of mine.

I'm intrigued to see what design changes you make, now that you have a more educated viewpoint on what needs to happen to make this all work.

[bacteria]

Life of Brian - Yes, I am also in the camp of it being more fun to portablize than playing the games! I get a lot of fun making systems.

I want to make a system I am entirely happy with, I wasn't with the last one, hence I will start again on it.

This time around I am also going to not have the screen showing through the perspex, especially as I am moving from 2mm to 3mm, I may use a sheet of 1mm glass instead for the screen area, or may not and just have the screen through, although the silver surround will not be visible (I don't like to see it).

Yes, I am looking at the previous work as knowledge gaining and will build on it.

I have to keep to perspex casing, however I will try to make the edges a bit more curved too.

Just came back from Maplins, bought more solder, desoldering braid, four reels of 25m cable (like the blue wires I used before - this wire is good stuff, general electrical purpose), each a different colour; a pack of 10m single core wire (handy for grounding components close together; some thicker wire for the power (black and red) suitable for up to 3amps. I will throw out a lot of my old wiring.

The reason I will need two universal slots (N64 game cart slots) is that now I will have every alternate trace as grounding, this will get rid of the interference in the wiring I had before and make this project successful.

I am very happy to answer any questions people have about this revised project, however I don't intend to post pics until it is all done as I want to get a "wow" factor if I can, although the front will not look drastically different to the old one, the rear will. Not decided if I will paint this project or use the thick paper again, probably the latter.

I get (hopefully) my new camera for my birthday next weekend, which will allow me to make decent pics - 7.2mega pixels, 640x480 video with sound, 4 x optical zoom; and I have a mini tripod now. I just hope I get this camera as my pressie (my 42nd birthday BTW!!). This will allow me to be far better in my documentation of projects!

[timmeh87]

So you are using a ribbon cable to connect the cart slot? Its certainly a lot tidier, and will help if you are having interference problems (what page is that on?). The advantage of having alternate ground wires is lost if you dont keep it all on one plane. The ground wires are physically blocking the radiation from adjacent wires.

Ive seen a lot of tangled wiring jobs, including my own. If all the ground wires are connected it usually seems to work. Perhaps there are other reasons why only one (?) ground wire is ineffective. A system this complicated can work in mysterious ways. Reflection, oscillation, clock skew - I could throw down some fancy words but I dont even really know what it means. I just generally shy away from changing anything.

Anyways, redesigns and 'MKII"s or whatever always look great so I look forward to seeing the new case