Bacteria's N64/GBA combined portable - Nintendo 64 Advance

Includes but not limited to: SNES, Genesis, Sega CD, PlayStation 1, Nintendo 64, Dreamcast, Game Gear and I guess the Virtual Boy.

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bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

(Updated last post with the two promised pics).

Turned system over, carefully. I put the screen on top after manipulating the wires a bit; turned the system on, first N64, then GBA; both fine; which is great because problem solving this at this stage would be rather difficult!

The screen is not on straight, I know (far from it). It is just to give an idea of how it looks, and to show that I don't have a lot of wasted space. I am trying to keep this project compact!! In saying this, I am making my case 20mm higher, to be the same height as an N64 box (feels a nice size in my hands).

N64
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GBA
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So far, so good. Now I am in a position to say that the only difference having the GBA in place is the case is about 12mm higher than it would have been otherwise; although I might be able to shave a couple of millimeters off this later. As you see from the pics, I have built this in a modular fashion, double layer. I won't be holding this part (in the middle) so isn't a problem.

Next job is the case front. I may as well start this, now I know where everything will sit. After making the front, I can get back to the system, mount the PSone mobo and screen properly (and straight!), mount the front of the case on and then start placing the buttons.
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bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

I have nearly finished my drawing of the front of the case, making it exactly to size. I will post pics of it tomorrow, and will start making it (off for dinner now, and to spend the evening with my wife).
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THON
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Post by THON »

Good luck to ya (AFAIK, this is the first double system portable!)
bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

Yet again, I am having trouble sleeping at night. I keep waking up during the night, been happening a lot lately: anyway, just been up for just over an hour and a half, designed and refined posting this drawing, then back to bed again.

This is exact, millimeter perfect. I will use it as a template as the top sheet will be 2mm clear plastic, so I can transpose the image and make my holes in the plastic and smooth all cut areas. This will take a while to do to get it right, and I only have 2 sheets of this material (unless I order more and wait for it to arrive of course). I am expecting to waste a sheet, hope I don't waste both!

As the D-pad and joystick need to be mounted through the plastic sheet, I will incorporate an area above the plastic around each button/raised area to make it look uniform. The underside (apart from the area for the PSone screen of course) will be spray painted, this will give a very sheeny appearance on the top, be impossible to rub off and will be completely smooth. I decided to go for "angular" design as this is interesting; hence the corners in the pic. There will in effect be two tone - the gloss sheen from the plastic and the slightly more matt colour of the button surrounds and sides of the case.

I am not trying to impress with my drawing, it is done by hand and not graphic drawing (I could have done this if I had wanted), nor is this a concept drawing, it is the real thing, so it is a template. That is why the circles are not perfect circles too. The rectangle in the middle is the screen (of course) - the viewing size of the screen, not the surround.

I will have the front of the case completely flat.

There is a considerable amount of work yet to do, not just making the case front and back and sides, but also I need to make the shoulder buttons and their area, the slots for the switches; make the buttons work nicely on the tact switches and get them, and my home made buttons, to the right height in the case - I want them fairly low mounted.

If I had managed to get the TI card working properly (may be a faulty one I had), I could have included the Expansion Pack as I would have had enough power to run it; I have enough room for it, never mind, I can always upgrade the system later if I want to - easy enough to do. Plenty of space for batteries if I do this at a later stage too, however as discussed before, I am staying with mains power on purpose, out of choice.

Anyway, the pic:

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The black circles are the speaker grills, I just put them on top. I will probably have them slightly smaller when mounted. The "Z" button will be under the unit (left side).

I am using smoothed edged wood for the sides, hence the 4mm surround on the drawing to allow for this. The vertical dashed lines are just to illustrate the size of the N64 mobo, for interest.

I could have made the system very small if I had wanted, as the finished design only needed to be wide enough to take a joystick after all; however, as discussed before, the aim isn't to make it small but to make it comfortable to hold. you will notice the "C" buttons are in a sweep position to match the sweep from my forefinger. The final size of my case will be 297mm wide and 185mm high (excluding top of cart showing at the top of the case). This height (about the height of a boxed N64 game) is ideal for me and the width of the case gives me space for my fingers to rest behind the unit comfortably.

On the top of the case, alongside the N64 cart, will be the switches, on/off switch, power in plug, the PSone volume and contrast buttons and switch to select a different save slot on the N64 memory card (as a 1mb card, you can press a button to select between 4 x 256kb areas).


I am undecided as to colour of the system - toying with gloss black; although considering white/creme or cream colour. Any views guys?? I am tempted with white or pale cream colour but also tempted with black...
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Twisted Warthog
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Post by Twisted Warthog »

Awesome case design. I really don't get why you would want the C buttons like that but whatever floats your boat i guess.

As for the colour i suggest you should paint it glossy black with a white outlining. 8)
THON
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Post by THON »

I was going to suggest a black front and a SNES gray back. I agree with Twisted, however; I don't think using those C buttons is going to be very easy when you're playing a game.
bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

Ok guys, black front. I like the idea of a "SNES grey" to compliment too.

I have decided I will have the case less wide, as it doesn't appear that I need 85mm clear on the sides for my fingers - 65mm will be fine (minimum), so am making it 70mm to be safe - so the width will not now be 297mm but 267mm (about 10.3 inches), thereby reducing the width by 30mm.

I would have wondered too about the "C" buttons and why they are to be spaced as they are so I took some pics to illustrate, as below. I placed the paper sheet onto one of the N64 covered boxes I used, so I had the thickness right, and took pics.

I believe this will work fine, it is easy to get to the buttons, no stretching.

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...and the rear - this is why I can reduce the width - I don't need the full area, so can make the case less wide.

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I think you can see now why I have designed the layout in this unusual way.

Because it is not so easy to press a button on the side of your finger, these buttons will be shallow, which will make them easy to press, locate and also activate.

One other unusual feature of this system, is that I will need two left shoulder buttons, one on the side and one at the top, one when I use the N64 (joystick) and the other one when using the D-pad (GBA), as my forefinger will be in a different place. I can't see a situation when I will need to use the top one while playing N64 games, so I don't need to make this one dual function.
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bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

There, that's better!

Looks a much more conventional shape now! It is surprising that taking 15mm off each side makes it look quite sweet!

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...and with the speaker grills on...

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bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

Making progress with the case.

I will try and make this with the 2mm perspex as originally designed, however if I get into trouble (clean cutting, the perspex might fracture in places and look naff) I will resort to my original thought of using wood and putting a 10 micron (240 thou) acetate on top, to get a similar effect.

I will use a grey surround around all the buttons, edges of case and a narrow band around the screen cutout to make it look more striking.

Anyway, first attempt:

The perspex:

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I placed the drawing under the perspex:

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Stuck the plastic to the surface with paper tape, drew out the cutouts:

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If I don't get the holes cut perfectly, it won't matter too much, as the plan is to put a piece of carefully cut 10 micron acetate or card around each hole, which will cover up any errors. It will also conceal the cutout itself, which otherwise would look ugly.

There is every chance this plastic will be hard to cut nicely, even with careful dremelling, but will give it a go now.
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bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

My dremel has two speeds, 15,000 and 30,000 RPM. 30,000 RPM melts the plastic, but 15,000 RPM is ideal.

Taking my time, and making gentle cuts with a drill cutter I have been shaving the hole into shape. Before I did this, I bored a simple hole with a drill bit (as per the other holes in the pic).

The button fits beautifully, loose enough to use, but a lovely round hole! Let's hope I don't slip with the dremel and damage the sheet now!

Lots more to cut out, it will take a few hours and a steady hand to finish this. No rush though! :wink: Rush it and I will lose the professional finish I have so far. At this rate, I might not need to worry about the top edges (grey).

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Incidentally, I used a whiteboard permanent medium marker pen (had it for years, about time I used it) to make the black marks on the plastic. It doesn't rub off, but does come off with an eraser, so the finished product should be perfect.

I will be using the same red buttons at the bottom row; they are from a couple of NES controllers I opened before for the D-pads - keeps continuity.
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bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

This is time consuming. It takes about 35 minutes to cut one hole. The majority of this time (about 32 mins) is spent shaving bits off, fractions of a millimeter at a time.

Straight edges will be easier, just use the flat diamond edge cutter to finish off and get a straight edge (along with the tool I am using at the moment).

I estimate, at this rate, it takes about 9-10 hours of solid graft to get the whole sheet done. It will take a few sessions as you can't concentrate on this cutting for more than about an hour at a time without taking a break / doing something else, otherwise that is how mistakes happen. It only needs a slip and you could end up with a hole at a slight oblong rather than a circle! It doesn't matter how long it takes to complete, it is important to get the job done properly.

I have virtually finished the second button hole, it is as perfect as the first one. I will post a pic when the bottom 4 buttons are done, then when the rest of the buttons are done, then with the joystick and D-pad cut out, then with the screen cut out and finally the finished product with the sides cut.

Edit - the screen isn't being cut out, error above! I am working around it instead.
Last edited by bacteria on Wed Aug 22, 2007 8:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Skyone
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Post by Skyone »

o_o

Holy crap, dude. What the hell are you using? A toothpick? Use a Dremel or even just a drill, perfect circular cuts...
bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

Skyone wrote:o_o

Holy crap, dude. What the hell are you using? A toothpick? Use a Dremel or even just a drill, perfect circular cuts...
:D
Um, I am using a dremel (see above posts)!

I have a dremel bit which is the perfect size, exactly right; however as I discovered on my last project, using this type of sanding tool on plastic makes the right sized hole, but can burn the plastic making it brown, you can end up with a slightly mis-shapen hole and it is nearly impossible to get a row of holes in EXACTLY the right positions; as well as the risk that the tool moves a bit while you dremel it down on the surface. If you try to use a larger drill bit you are likely to get little snags and rips on the hole, or tiny marks which looks bad. It just isn't worth the risk - you can do this with wood as it has tolerance, but plastic doesn't. Hence the slow, but accurate, method.

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I therefore am not using the dremel flat sanding bit, except as a final size check. I am drilling a hole in the middle of the button space (right), then using the side cutter (as on the dremel now) to gently shave off a bit here, and a bit there. I have currently finished 3 of the bottom row of 4 holes; all are perfectly straight to each other (near zero tolerance so far, and level) and equidistant from each other to a tolerance of under 1mm. That is pretty exact. Also, each of the holes look like they are machine cut, they are perfectly smooth to the eye. Yes, this is painstaking work, and tiring applying the concentration and patience required, but I am after accuracy and am trying to make this as pretty as possible; so I have to make the holes in this method. I only intend to make this once after all!
:D

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bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

Done all 4 bottom buttons now. I feel slightly dizzy with all that concentration. I think I will call it a day with the project today, I should be able to return to it again tomorrow and post new pics.

Below is a pic to show how straight the buttons are alligned. This is about as good as it gets doing this proceedure by hand I think. The small black marks around the sides of the holes will be rubbed off with an eraser.

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The other two NES buttons are on my home-made buttons, which are attached to my console, so I can't include them in the pic.

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bacteria
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Post by bacteria »

I renamed my project topic title, as you may have noticed. I felt it more appropriate.
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