Dc don't power up using picoPSU ? And my new DCp project !!

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-=FamilyGuy=-
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Dc don't power up using picoPSU ? And my new DCp project !!

Post by -=FamilyGuy=- » Sun Apr 08, 2007 9:59 pm

Hi, I'm making a DC portable for fun, I'm a experienced DC hacker and I've made a lot of hacks on my DCs already(cdrw-able switch, overclock, leds, reset button, Dance Dance Revolution board, etc.)

I've heard that the DC was able to work with a mini-itx psu, so I though, IT SHOULD WORKS WITH A picoPSU TOO ??!!

Here's the picoPSU I got: http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl;jsessionid ... t=A&id=417

SO, I've soldered togheter the PWR_GRND and PWR_ON pin, linked it to a GameCube wall adaptor(12v 3.25A), and them put pins soldered to my psu's 3v 5v 12v and grnd .. and when I plug it all ... it constantly reboot.. the orange led even flicker ... I dunno what it can be ...

Can any of you help me to find what it is ? maybe is there something I must know about theses little psus that might create this problem ...

Thank you very much !

-=FamilyGuy=-
Last edited by -=FamilyGuy=- on Sat Apr 14, 2007 11:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

tom61
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Post by tom61 » Sun Apr 08, 2007 10:21 pm

Probably not enough amps availible on the 12Volt rail. Do you know the DC's draw for that line? PicoPSUs have a small amp rating for 12Volts, just enough for fans really, so if the DC needs more than that (if it powers the drive, for example) you'd get the same symptoms you are experiencing.

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Post by -=FamilyGuy=- » Sun Apr 08, 2007 10:37 pm

Oh, I see... it might be a little too low...

I just tried to power it on with the 12v line not-connected, and it does the same, I really think that the DC needs more amps ...

But, I jsut saw there: http://resources.mini-box.com/online/PW ... l-engl.pdf

That the 12v line can have 7A or something ... also, the remote on/off thing might be the problem ...

I also tried using the cd-drive's 12v line.. it don't works ... I think I'll split the 12v in to the psuthen plug my 12v in (to dc) and my picopsu in parallel :P

THenk you for your lightspeed fast reply, If you find anything else, feel free to help me !!

thank you

-=FamilyGuy=-

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Post by dudex77 » Mon Apr 09, 2007 4:41 am

explain what you mean by cdrw-able switch. if its what i think it is how do you make it?
Kurt_ wrote: I would use tact switches but I want the mushy feel. Mushy = God. (I typed that correctly).
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Post by -=FamilyGuy=- » Mon Apr 09, 2007 10:28 am

I truly beleive that it's what you think it is, and you do it this way : http://semicolo.free.fr/Dreamcast/cdrw/index.html

As for my DCp problem, i'll check today and post if it's oslved or if there's still problems !

-=FamilyGuy=-

[EDIT]

I've just fixed it!! I've linked PWR_ON and the normal ground togheter and it works like a charm, I think that it was for the sleep mone PWR_ON and PWR_GRND ...

Here's a pic ! Notice how space it save, I'd be able to put a bunch of batteries at this place, instead of the original psu...

Image
High def :
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k19/_ ... astv_0.jpg

On the pic, it runs from a gamecube wall adaptor (12v 3.25A) and then screen from a 7.5v somy battery, i've ordered a regualtor to plug my screen in the 12v in and it'll all works from a 12 intput :P the switch at the right is a reset switch, this dc is Region-Changer-ABLE(bios flash able) and It was overclocked, but since i've corrupted like 4 vmu this way, i've put it back to normal.


Thanks for your help !

-=FamilyGuy=-

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Post by dudex77 » Mon Apr 09, 2007 1:44 pm

wow considering you sound like you know what your doing this should turn out great itll be great to see another dcp to marvel at and thanks for the link
Kurt_ wrote: I would use tact switches but I want the mushy feel. Mushy = God. (I typed that correctly).
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Post by -=FamilyGuy=- » Mon Apr 09, 2007 8:00 pm

No problem :P I only need a way to split the contoroller and it's hafl-done !

Does any of you know if it's easier to split a mad cat controller than a sega one ?

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Post by dudex77 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:53 am

-=FamilyGuy=- wrote:No problem :P I only need a way to split the contoroller and it's hafl-done !

Does any of you know if it's easier to split a mad cat controller than a sega one ?

-=FamilyGuy=-
dont quote me on this but i think i read somewhere some one saying it was
Kurt_ wrote: I would use tact switches but I want the mushy feel. Mushy = God. (I typed that correctly).
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Post by Sparkfist » Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:58 am

-=FamilyGuy=- wrote:No problem :P I only need a way to split the contoroller and it's hafl-done !

Does any of you know if it's easier to split a mad cat controller than a sega one ?

-=FamilyGuy=-
I'm not a 100% sure if the MadCat is what I'm thinking. But there is a 3rd party that has the controller cable going the right way. I would have to say as I've seen a Sega 1st party controller disassembled a 3rd party should be easier. But if you want to be sure, look at both PCBs and evaluate them for yourself, you're the only soldering them together you'd know your abilities better then anyone.
vskid wrote:Nerd = likes school, does all their homework, dies if they don't get 100% on every assignment
Geek = likes technology, dies if the power goes out and his UPS dies too

I am a geek.

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Post by -=FamilyGuy=- » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:12 am

Well, I think I can solder a 1st party one, but since there's so much litle connections and "trace", I'm afraid to kill something, or to have 45 wires hanging out ... can anybody find me a 3r (mad cat plz) party pcb picture ? It'd be greatly appreciated !!

I can also remap somebuttons to tact switchs, but this way I can't do the analog joystick and triggers ... WICH I WANT TO BE ANALOG :P

Thank You


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dudex77
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Post by dudex77 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:21 am

try getting in touch with dkap01 im sure he could help you with whatever
Kurt_ wrote: I would use tact switches but I want the mushy feel. Mushy = God. (I typed that correctly).
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Post by Turbo Tax 1.0 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:52 am

i think dkap used a "quantum fighter pad" and just relocated all the buttons to a psone controller's PC board
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Post by -=FamilyGuy=- » Tue Apr 10, 2007 12:29 pm

However I do it, I wanna keep the joystick analog, and *if possible* the L and R buttons too, but if they're going to be on the top (shoulder button) or back(butt-button :P) maye that I'd not be able to do butt button analog, since I moves in a "curve", I don't really know how to express this sorry, I don't speak english really well ...

What is the more comfortable position for the triggers ? butt-button or shoulder-button ? :?:

Thank you for all your help, it' greatly appreciated, once the "frankstein apart" joystick will be done, I'll buy some battery with high mAh (around 3000 or 6000 overall) and build a case, maybe a vacuum forming one since I made one of these table last year at school and the foreman/teacher can gimme acess to it :P


Thank you

-=FamilyGuy=-

[EDITT]

I just found a mad cat pcd picture on devcast :

Image
It's so simple :P I cansimply "cut all of the righ portion, keep only the analog aprt, and re-wire the ABXY buttons on a perforated pcb using tack switchs, or the original swirly things, it'll be what i'll take !

Just one quetion : What are the C and Z buttons for ?
;)

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Post by dudex77 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 1:07 pm

c and z are just are just digital versions of l and r that are great to have for fighting games and arcade games but not needed. the madcatz controller look like it would be way easy to use. where are you from?
Kurt_ wrote: I would use tact switches but I want the mushy feel. Mushy = God. (I typed that correctly).
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Post by -=FamilyGuy=- » Tue Apr 10, 2007 2:42 pm

Yeah! I'll order one soon.
I'm from Québec, the french-talking part of Canada :P

Ho! I forgot in my presentation on the first post, that I also rip dc games using a dvd-drive (LTD-165H) and swapping, it works well, for the majority of games :P I also got a coder calbe, but dvd-drive is way faster ... :P between BBA and Serial but tends to the BBA :P (in fact I can rip in like 16x but I'd be corrupted ...) Here's my setup : http://www.segakatana.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=146
Note: if it's not really liked to post links to others site here, simply tell me and i'll remove this one.)

So c and z are like L and R but not analog ? ... ok ...

Thank you again !

-=FamilyGuy=-

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