Bacteria's Multi-Console System: Screen+Case+N64 - FINISHED

Bibin · Post by **Bibin** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 3:48 pm

That magnetism might kill game saves on flash-based memory cards, or n64 carts.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 4:19 pm

(I updated the last entry on the last page with a pic of the WIP on the case cover - mostly done - we are on page 6 now I see!). Tomorrow the case will look pretty!

Bibin - Fortunately the game cart will be well away from the speakers and I will ensure the memory card will also be well away. I doubt the magnetism would cause a problem as it has no effect through 4mm of perspex, but I will mount the components from the N64 guts away from it anyway. The issue was the magnetism it had with the speaker grill in my original plan.

Website · Post by **Life of Brian** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 4:44 pm

Do you really cut out all your perspex/plexiglass with only a dremel? I tend to butcher the plastic when I try to cut that much in a straight line, plus sanding it takes a long time. Luckily I discovered that my recently acquired band saw makes short work of it, and I bought a belt sander a long while ago that helps give me straight edges.

Sharp Sapphire · Post by **Sharp Sapphire** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 5:28 pm

Where did you happen to buy all those colored wires at? Was it in some sort of kit?

Any links to it?

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 3:00 am

Life of Brian - If I have a long edge to cut I sometimes use a Stanley knife to score the perspex and then put a metal ruler above and below the perspex, hold in place with large pliers and try to snap it off. Problem is that half the time the plastic snaps somewhere it shouldn't; so most of the time, yes, I use a Dremel. My technique is to use a drill bit to cut fairly close to the line I want to cut, then finish off with a 12mm circular sanding attachment on my Dremel. It is a quick process (you need steady hands though) however you get covered in bits of plastic and the sander gets really hot so you do get bits of hot plastic landing on you too. Not a problem!

Sharp Sapphire - I have bought coloured wires in electrical stores in their sheath (about 10 or so in a cable) and then strip off the sheath to get the individual wires. I also get some from controller cables when I hack a controller - you get 2-6 coloured wires this way typically. If you bend a cable as far as it goes, gently apply a knife to the taught cable plastic, you get a cut in the plastic, do the same the other side, then pull the cable sheath off, or use pliers to assist.

I have bought some wires in the past, however I salvage most from unneeded cables (as above). You get lots of different colours and shades of wires this way, for free.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 3:48 am

All holes cut, including the speaker grill holes. The speaker grill I will be using is on the left of the pic and will be stuck behind the paper before the paper is stuck to the case.

I am going to paint the edge of the NES pad cross hole black as I am not so keen on the light grey surround.

Next job then is to get the paper varnished with three coats of clear varnish; that will make the paper strong and resistant to scuffing, I can then get it on the case itself. I can't apply the varnish after putting the paper in place as some of the varnish would stick to the buttons, so it makes more sense to apply it first.

Whilst the varnish dries I can start working on the system casing...

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:31 am

Spent quite a while on the casing today. I said I would have it done, and it is now done.

Jobs done today:

* Trimmed the sides down to 33mm.
* Moved the main joystick over a tad as it wasn't absolutely central in hole.
* Applied the paper covering after giving it 3 layers of varnish.
* Added the speaker grills.
* Painted areas as required.
* Tested all buttons work fine.

Overall I am very happy with it, it isn't perfect but this might be as good as it gets. I made the holes for the buttons very snug, perhaps slightly too snug. I will have to gently make the holes very slightly bigger. The top side is not completely flat, as I had some variation when I put on the tact switches, etc. I can rectify this at a later stage with small 90 degree pieces if I decide I want to. I did however get the screen cutout bang on, which was important. As the paper frayed a bit when cutting out the switch holes, I applied a little black ink to make it look more like a design feature.

Next job is the case base for the N64 system. Yes, I am finally at that stage!

Pics:

You many have noticed that I have therefore updated my sig to reflect this milestone.

Although I trimmed the sides to 33mm tall, the whole thing with the covering on comes to 34mm. Humm, ok. I can always trim a little more off later if I want to - not a problem.

lovablechevy · Post by **lovablechevy** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:52 am

bacteria, you are awesome. 'nuff said.

Website · Post by **Life of Brian** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 11:21 am

Cool! This is great! You built it so fast...

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 11:32 am

lovablechevy wrote:bacteria, you are awesome. 'nuff said.

Aw, shucks, thanks!!

Life of Brian - Thanks, I spent 7 hours on this work today. Back to work tomorrow, might get a bit of time tomorrow and Thursday, will have Friday morning free, I then have most of Monday next week and a fair bit of the following three days for project work, so I should hopefully have the N64 system completed, or near completion, by the end of next week. I can then start on the SNES! (I guess this means I will have to wash the SNES mobo under the tap and leave it in the airing cupboard for a week, soon!).

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 5:27 am

Right, on with the business of the N64!

The time it took to dismantle the N64, cut and solder what I did, and prepare the controller took a total of about 1.5 hours start to end. Not long. I have more to do, eg relocate cart slot, and more work on the controller, etc - point was to get the system working.

I am doing this guide as an idiots guide, so there is no excuse for anyone wanting to make an N64p to be able to do so.

For the purpose of testing, I rigged up a set of AA's and a TI regulator quickly and a composite cable and checked all ok (see later). Obviously I am using Li-ions and not AA's, this was just so I could get video from a PSone screen (ie via my system) without doing too many major steps.

Ok:

Here is an unmodded N64. Remove your jumper pak or expansion pack from under the cover

Turn over to its back and remove all the screws. I have a GameBit screwdriver, but you can make your own or remove the screws by other means (there are many suggestions on how on this forum)

Remove all the screws first from the top plate and any other screws you see, then lift the metal plate off (it slots slightly in at the bottom, so lift and slide it off)

Then remove more screws and also the ones by the jumper pak/expansion pack slot

Life up the plate and remove it

And then lift off the other plate as shown in pic

To see the mobo

GENTLY put a 2mm screwdriver under between the metal block and the processor and GENTLY twist the screwdriver to pop off the metal block. Repeat for the three blocks

...done...

Lift the mobo out and remove the metal plate from behind the mobo

I need height to be a minimum on this project, so I needed to desolder the on/off switch and keep it permanently soldered to "on"

In the pic, I needed to desolder the 8 pins (in pic) and the 4 legs of the switch. I later discovered that if I had cut these legs off I could have salvaged the switch (as I did before), never mind!

Once desoldered, lift the switch off with a longer headed screwdriver and twist gently - if you use too much force then the legs are not desoldered enough.

...done...

I then soldered the connections together as in pic, so as far as the system is concerned, the system is permanently "on"

As there are lots of pics on this update, I am putting more into the next post...

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 5:57 am

Next job, to remove the plugs - first for the power:

I use a diamond metal cutter on my Dremel - cuts through metal (and fingers if you aren't careful!). Wear goggles too for eye protection.

Slice through the metal contacts

Then the plug lifts off easily.

Slice through the video and audio plug, through both layers of contacts

Pry off the contacts from the plug to release them (both layers)

Lift off the plug (opposite way to arrow direction - oops!)

Leaving the pins exposed

Snip off the pins near the base, this then gives nice easy points to solder to

To remove the controller ports (I will wire directly to player 1 port), Dremel off some of the plastic so you can get to the metal pins easily

Life off the plastic

Dremel through the metal posts

And lift off the plastic port

Dremel through the posts to reduce their size and wiggle with pliers to remove the posts. If you Dremel the posts for too long, the solder will melt that holds them in place, so cut through the metal in stages

Both sides done

So the mobo fits in my case, between the joystick backs, I need to trim off some of the grounding strips (you won't need to).

In this orientation, I can have the bulky cart slot wiring away from the entrance to the main slot, and the joystick mobo alongside (on right side)

Like this - (fits snugly)

Next, controller. Various third party controllers are different sizes, for this project I am using one of these - joystick is wierd, in reverse, for a "steering wheel" on the joystick (naff), anyway, will test the joystick orientation later

Mobo removed

Metal shielding removed with screwdriver, lifting up the tabs

Port pulled off with heavy pliers

Pins snipped, and checked they don't touch each other. I will wire up a memory card in there later

Wires from the controller connect (with N64 mobo upright) as red, white, black.

System tested, all fine at this stage. I need to get the heatsinks on, more work on controller, memory card, expansion slot relocation, etc. Lots more to do, but not much time for next days, however I will be back on the project on Monday morning for a bit, and a lot on Tuesday - Friday.

I just wanted to test all was fine and I hadn't damaged anything - all fine. I tested with a Star Wars game (naff, but it was to hand).

Website · Post by **Life of Brian** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:18 am

Beautiful! That walkthrough is perfect! Thank you so much, bacteria!

kasar · Post by **kasar** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:50 am

awesome bacteria.

this guide will make everything easier for every people who try to portabilize a n64.

nice job! and thank you a lot

I will vote you for mod

, and for pressident

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:22 am

Thanks guys! I will post pics of the power and video and audio, as well as the other work on this hacking work (lots more to do yet).

It really isn't difficult at all to make an N64p, the time is making the casing, etc. I am hoping more people will "have a go" now; this step-by-step guide I am doing this time is far better than my last one and far more comprehensive than before. I hope lots of people like it.

Any chance this topic could be stickied please?