Laptop style N64

evilteddy · Post by **evilteddy** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 1:49 am

Thanks for the compliments Bacteria

. As for the rest
-It is pretty thick. I didn't do a good job at keeping the cart slot low and the speakers are pretty tall.
-I haven't put a switch in for an external controller yet but rest assured its on my to do list I just couldn't find a spare switch in my box.
-Expansion pack otherwise why would I have DK64 in there?
-The front plate in which all the buttons are in hinges up on the big hinge. I actually have a couple of batteries and I replace them and charge them out of the case. Its not elegant but it means I can use many cheaper batteries. I have 2 but I think I'll get 2 more and each battery already does about 1 hour 50 minutes work.
-Yes C buttons are a bit of a mess

. They need a good working on and quite frankly why would I want to listen to Navi. Though you're right that up C button does need to be repaired.
-There is no love for that space consuming Dpad but there is space aplenty for it if I ever decide to later. I still have the Dpad just in case I come across a decent game that uses it.
-I didn't take a picture but there is a fan on the left side pulling air throught a quite nicely drilled (if I say so myself) grille of holes. On the other side is a corresponding griller.
-I am using the hinges from the psone screen to hinge the top half.
-Left shoulder is Z right is R.
-I will paint it sometime.
-If scratching around the screen is a problem I will cut out a spot for the screen and mount it forward in there.
-The speakers are excellent. I was using headphones for a while today but then found it so much better to unplug and immerse myself in the sound.

Thanks again for your help.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 2:50 am

evilteddy wrote:Thanks for the compliments Bacteria .

Well deserved, nice system.

-I haven't put a switch in for an external controller yet but rest assured its on my to do list I just couldn't find a spare switch in my box.

-Expansion pack otherwise why would I have DK64 in there?

Oops, I should have realised that!!

-The front plate in which all the buttons are in hinges up on the big hinge. I actually have a couple of batteries and I replace them and charge them out of the case. Its not elegant but it means I can use many cheaper batteries. I have 2 but I think I'll get 2 more and each battery already does about 1 hour 50 minutes work.

1 hour 50 mins is quite acceptable. Pretty good, actually.

-Yes C buttons are a bit of a mess . They need a good working on and quite frankly why would I want to listen to Navi. Though you're right that up C button does need to be repaired.

...and the right and left "C" buttons are not in a square compared to the up and down buttons, presumably this was done on purpose?

-There is no love for that space consuming Dpad but there is space aplenty for it if I ever decide to later. I still have the Dpad just in case I come across a decent game that uses it.

Someone told me a while back that some N64 games need it, or at least benefit - Puzzle League, etc. Personal choice, as there is a space for it, seems good to add it anyway?

-I didn't take a picture but there is a fan on the left side pulling air throught a quite nicely drilled (if I say so myself) grille of holes. On the other side is a corresponding griller.

Excellent, pleased to hear it.

-I am using the hinges from the psone screen to hinge the top half.
-Left shoulder is Z right is R.

That's fine unless you play games like Mario Party which use all the available buttons - without a left shoulder button it might cause a problem in those games (Mario Party 1,2,3).

-I will paint it sometime.

-If scratching around the screen is a problem I will cut out a spot for the screen and mount it forward in there.

Probably a good idea, it is very easy to scratch perspex. You would also get rid of the screen glare from the perspex if removed.

-The speakers are excellent. I was using headphones for a while today but then found it so much better to unplug and immerse myself in the sound.

Excellent, worthwhile. If you want speakers of good quality and large, consider mylar speakers, my 50mm ones are only 8.5mm tall (using them in my current project).

Thanks again for your help.

grossaffe · Post by **grossaffe** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 3:12 am

bacteria wrote:Someone told me a while back that some N64 games need it, or at least benefit - Puzzle League, etc. Personal choice, as there is a space for it, seems good to add it anyway?

i know that wcw v. nwo needs the d-pad.

mothatrucka · Post by **mothatrucka** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 8:11 am

Very nice work! The case really shows the time and effort you put into it.

Regarding the d-pad, I can't remember the last game I played that used it. I think some of the Mortal Kombat games use it in place of the joystick, but I don't remember. I know the c-pad buttons are used in the James Bond games, but I don;t think the d-pad's used.

evilteddy · Post by **evilteddy** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 4:00 pm

Well I am going to be doing a bit more work on my buttons to make them better and in other news my hinges aren't staying on very well. What would be the best glue for joining acryllic to itself and acryllic to the metal of the playstation hinges?

mothatrucka · Post by **mothatrucka** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 4:11 pm

I really like plain super glue for acrylic/acrylic joints. I've never had it come undone. As for metal to acrylic, I use 5 minute epoxy. It works perfectly. A lot of people recommend JB Weld instead, and although I've never used it personally, I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

evilteddy · Post by **evilteddy** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 5:12 pm

I took the N64 to school on Tuesday and it was widely loved. We played mario kart, perfect dark and golden eye. We only had one spare controller so player 1 was stuck on the internal controller. I want to be able to switch from internal to external controller but I only have a Double pole dual throw switch so in light of this can I just switch two lines off to a controller and have it turn itself off and not intefere with another controller in parrallel and if so which line should I leave on +,- or data?

schmellyfart · Post by **schmellyfart** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:59 am

Great Job! Post this in the News section, more people will see it there.

For the DPDT switch you don't have to use both poles, but if you want to, go for it. All you need to do it put the switch on the positive wire and you will be good to go.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:40 am

A two pole switch is fine, if you think about it, you have 3v (red), data (white), negative (black). The red wire needs to be on a switch, as does the white one, but the black is only negative so is only relevant if the red is attached. Use a switch therefore for white and red lines.

Attaching perspex to perspex, etc - glue is fine, if you can however use small screws instead/as well as, especially if supporting weight or moving parts.