Handheld Gamecube attempt

soundwave · Post by **soundwave** » Mon Jul 11, 2005 11:54 pm

before this, I wrote:after many requests for pics of the insides of the GCp, I've finally decided to post some up ...enjoy:
(oh, and be ready for a small surprise )

pic of the insides:

one of the battery packs and it's space in the case (rhyme!) :

back of the controller:

close up of the L button module..thing :

surprise !!!:

the NEW GCp (almost rebuilt...before my LEDs fried ):

whatre the red pushbuttons on the bottom?

Post by **Gamelver** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 7:07 am

those are the buttons for power

....

*400th post in this thread

!!!!

daguuy · Post by **daguuy** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:31 am

for a second i thought someone else made a GCp cause i didn't recognize you w/o your avatar

Metroid fan · Post by **Metroid fan** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 11:27 am

And Gamelver still waiting for the gcp guide

i want to see it before i'm forty

after this, usbcd36 wrote:I have an idea for a power supply/charging system for any portable. It is an "upgraded" version of the circuit Ben has for the CNC SNESp in his book. Instead of only being able to charge the batteries while the unit is off, why not make it so you can charge them when you are using the AC adapter? All you need is a DPDT momentary pushbutton switch and any jack from RadioShack (I like this type because in the case of a portable PSOne, you can use the original power cord in an unaltered form.)

30 minutes later...

This is a schematic of the circuit:

You will need the above items, and:
a DPDT switch (doesn't matter as long as it's DPDT)
some wire
a charge plug (as described in the book for the CNC SNESp)
hot glue
drill/ 1/8" bit
X-acto knife
soldering iron/solder
spare piece of 1/8" thick stuff (doesn't matter as long as it's sturdy)
patience

1. Using the drill, put a hole into the power jack (not all the way through, just into it). Also be careful not to destroy the outside (ground) contact as you will be using it. (fire up the glue gun and soldering iron too)

2. Slice off the corners of the button on your momentary DPDT switch until it fits in the hole. Bevel the top at a 45 degree angle.

3. Solder a wire from the positive terminal of the batteries to one of the center poles of the DPDT momentary switch, a wire from the pole adjacent to it (the other center pole) to the battery wire's side NC pole and a wire from there to a center pole on the DPDT power switch. Solder a wire from the NO pole (the same side that has a wire going to its NC pole. Then, solder a wire from the other NO pole to the tip of the DC AUX jack. FInally, solder a wire from the negative battery side to the other center pole on the power switch. Use the schematic to help you through this.

4. Ok, time to finish soldering! Solder a wire from the positive side of the charge jack to a side pole on the positive side of the power jack. Solder a wire from the negative side of the charge jack to any negative wire nearby (preferrably the one going to the power switch, there is a mistake in the schematic too, the wire should go to the negative going into the switch, not the other pole). Solder one wire from the terminal on the positive side and the pole on the negative side. These are the wires that power your portable. You should have 5 poles connected on each switch.

5. Glue the DC AUX jack onto the sturdy stuff with the hole on the side (not the top or bottom). Take the adapter that is going to power the device and stick the plug into the power connector. Then, insert the pushbutton switch so it turns on. Hold them in place on your sturdy piece of stuff and remove the plug. If the switch pops back when you remove the plug, you're in good shape. Hot glue it in place exactly where it is.

Check all your connections with the schematic. I will eventually make a diagram for wiring the switch, but until then, get someone who knows how to read schematics well and try your best. Definitely check twice because you could fry the portable or blow up the batteries if it's wired wrong.

Edit: Wiring Diagram!

G-force · Post by **G-force** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 12:15 pm

So how is that controller wired? It looks like some weird white covered PCB or something there... It looks like you cut off half of a GC controller and then connected it to a full GC controller?

S q u e e ! · Post by **S q u e e !** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 2:06 pm

Actually G-Force, that is the easiest way to incorperate an official GC controller into the GCp. It makes it so you don't have to solder traces together, and instead can solder directly to the chip itself.

Post by **Gamelver** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 3:27 pm

yeah, I just soldered one half of the controller (from the traces) to another whole controller board...before, I would just use the other half, but that proved to be to difficult (and made me waste money buying new ones!!)

Edit: as for that GCp guide....well, er, it WILL be done before you're forty

....unless you're 39 and your birthday's coming up soon

*28 pages

!!!

Metroid fan · Post by **Metroid fan** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 4:16 pm

Yeah this is the thread ever so when will I see the guide soon I hope.

*o* · Post by ***o*** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 4:19 pm

unless your 38 dont count on it

Metroid fan · Post by **Metroid fan** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 4:22 pm

Ok i just would like general intructions mine isn't going anywhere and instructions would help.

*o* · Post by ***o*** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 4:25 pm

whats wrong with it?

Metroid fan · Post by **Metroid fan** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 4:32 pm

Nothing It's just the project isn't going anywhere and i need instructions
but the case is going to be the gamecube cut in half because I think I
can fit the gamecube into only half after some mods. just look at the link in my sig.

*o* · Post by ***o*** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 4:33 pm

but whats causing oyu problems??? maybe we (i) can help!

Metroid fan · Post by **Metroid fan** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 4:54 pm

Well see I don't want to break my gamecube when I open it but the pen trick doesn't work.

*o* · Post by ***o*** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 4:57 pm

buy a driver?