Did I break it? (PSone LCD mod)

If you're making a portable you probably need something to watch it on. (Unless you want to guess what's happening in the game, but I wouldn't advise that) Anyway, this forum is your "Hacking a pocket TV/screen" one-stop solution. Share your experiences and knowledge here.

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HK-47
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Post by HK-47 »

Yeah, im pretty sure there is a fuse, If you jump it you should be ok. Though jumping it means you WILL fry your board next time you screw up the polarity.
JackFrost22
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Post by JackFrost22 »

or find out the kind and try to find a not smt fuse to put on
BCs300z
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Post by BCs300z »

I think you guys may be right on the money here. On the board there are two components marked PS1 and PS2 and they are outlined in a box on the board. There is right around 7.5V on each of them on the side closest to the point of entry (master connection) but on the other side I get 0.0V on the PS1 and 2.38V on PS2. They are the points with the arrows pointing to them leading from a serial number.

There is also a note on the board that says "CAUTION: replace IC link marked" So who knows at this point.

BTW: the little components marked PS1 and 2 have an "N" on them.

Are we on the right track here?????

thanks again in advance.
JackFrost22
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Post by JackFrost22 »

yes those are fuses
HK-47
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Post by HK-47 »

Yeah sounds like a fuse.
BCs300z
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Post by BCs300z »

To my knowledge, fuses don't typically attenuate a signal though. They mearly provide just enough continuity for the inputted signal to pass through it. Anything over the rated amount is what blows the fuse.

So why is there only the 1/3 votage making it through the other side? Is this maybe the "smart fuse" you are reffering too? A fuse that is a resistor as well, providing not only signal spike protection, but resisted attenuation?

Thanks
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Post by gannon »

Maybe one is a fuse, and the other is just simply a resistor.
HK-47
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Post by HK-47 »

I was talking about the first thing, so what gannon says makes sense.
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