SS's WIP GCP!

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:27 pm

Fantastic Mario - just sent you a PM as I need some answers please (actually 2 PM's as I forgot to ask one thing!).

Not sure if I can squeeze this into my system, I have virtually no space left in my portable for anything, but I might be lucky. If it doesn't fit anywhere on the case front I can always add it somewhere else!

Adding a low battery light is a really good idea as a final touch.

ShockSlayer · Post by **ShockSlayer** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 10:51 pm

Bacteria, if you have no room for something this small, that would be amazing, considering that mario wired his big(for the sake of the diagram, and mine can all fit on an American dime, or a Canadian nickel, or whatever you use for money!

If that's the case, that's gotta be one small portable!

Okay, tested it out. At 30 minutes before the battery dies, the LED lights up. At 15 minutes, it gets a little bit brighter. It is brightest within 5 minutes before battery dies. Then, along with the rest of the system, it turns off, just as abruptly as it should.

This was done using a 6.4Ah 11.1v battery, that was powering a GC w/powerboard directly, and a 4 led modded PSone screen, and a small laptop fan from a 7.5v TI DC-DC regulator.

I am satisfied, but, I think I'm going to buy a red led instead. Blue just doesn't seem right. I guess red just naturally means death, as blood, 360's, and fire and explosions are all red and all do the same thing.

Seriously though, thank you so much, Mario!

SS

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:03 pm

Looks like you got it bang on SS! Congrats!

This is why this forum is so amazing, lots of great contributions from lots of members. It is great to be part of it.

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:25 pm

Yes, SS, space is that tight in my system. I have to find crevices too for the four rumble pager/mobile phone motors too when they come (think they are 6mm tall). Can squeeze these components in somehow I am sure. The components are small and can be packed into a small space after all.

Although I sent a PM to Mario to confirm some parts, I decided to buy some anyway.

One of my usual e-bay sellers is selling some of these diodes in 10 sets of 9 voltages, including 3.3v and 3.6v; so I can test on 7.2v and also 6.9v; 7.2v better (2 x 3.6v) but gives a choice. Also from same seller got some 1R ohm resistors, 3mm LED's in red and green (and others too) and also the transistors Mario quoted. This mod is potentially a good one to do, and anyway, I have spent a lot of money on my project so far, so whats a few extra pounds?

When they arrive I will give this mod a go.

Mario · Post by **Mario** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:58 pm

ShockSlayer wrote:Bacteria, if you have no room for something this small, that would be amazing, considering that mario wired his big(for the sake of the diagram, and mine can all fit on an American dime, or a Canadian nickel, or whatever you use for money! If that's the case, that's gotta be one small portable!

Okay, tested it out. At 30 minutes before the battery dies, the LED lights up. At 15 minutes, it gets a little bit brighter. It is brightest within 5 minutes before battery dies. Then, along with the rest of the system, it turns off, just as abruptly as it should.

This was done using a 6.4Ah 11.1v battery, that was powering a GC w/powerboard directly, and a 4 led modded PSone screen, and a small laptop fan from a 7.5v TI DC-DC regulator.

I am satisfied, but, I think I'm going to buy a red led instead. Blue just doesn't seem right. I guess red just naturally means death, as blood, 360's, and fire and explosions are all red and all do the same thing.

Seriously though, thank you so much, Mario!

SS

So glad it worked for you!

So the LED, when it was its brightest, was that the LEDs full brightness or above it? You don't want to overvolt it, so that extra resistor might be necessary.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:26 am

Isn't having the poles connected with a resistor when "idle" a bit inefficient, though?

Eh, actually it probably has barely any effect, especially compared to the N64 you're running

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 5:16 am

Please feel free Kyo to expand on the diagram if you feel you can improve it.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:24 am

I'll make a detailed writeup (explaining how it works) as soon as I have mario's permission to use some of his stuff.

I'm not really sure you can use two diodes instead of one, though. That seems illogical. They should both give in at 5.1V and therefore do nothing more than one would.

ShockSlayer · Post by **ShockSlayer** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:15 am

Kyo wrote:especially compared to the N64 you're running

What? What do you mean by this...what n64?

SS

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:42 am

Sorry, I mean gamecube. I see a thread of yours and I think N64. That's understandable, no?

Mario · Post by **Mario** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:24 pm

Kyo wrote:Isn't having the poles connected with a resistor when "idle" a bit inefficient, though?

Eh, actually it probably has barely any effect, especially compared to the N64 you're running

I thought it would be, too, but last night I checked the amp draw of the whole setup - When it was "idle" (positive and negative shorted with resistor) the amp draw was only 40mA! With the LED on, it was 20mA.

One thing about that diagram is that you MUST use at least a 1W resistor - Less than that and it heats up, which is a good way to give yourself a nasty burn.

Kyo wrote:I'll make a detailed writeup (explaining how it works) as soon as I have mario's permission to use some of his stuff.

I'm not really sure you can use two diodes instead of one, though. That seems illogical. They should both give in at 5.1V and therefore do nothing more than one would.

It works because the diodes have a voltage drop of their rated voltage. So once current gets past the first diode (at least 5.2v) then it starts over at zero on the other side. Then it has to get past the second one, which is 5.1v, so all around the voltage must be at least 10.3v to get past both diodes.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:30 pm

oh really? I didn't know that. I haven't looked much into zener diodes, admittingly.

40mA is actually quite a bit. Using a higher resistor would be better, no?

Mario · Post by **Mario** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:41 pm

Quite a bit?! Are you joking? That's nothing! Two LEDs take up 40mA.

Kyo · Post by **Kyo** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:45 pm

it is considering that it's doing absolutely nothing

bacteria · Post by **bacteria** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:55 pm

Fantastic input Mario. When I get my components delivered I will have a bash at this.

40mA is perfectly fine given the benefit of this mod!

Pleased two diodes work together ok, couldn't find one at 7.2v, but did find 3.3v and 3.6v ones (bought both), so two 3.6v together = 7.2v which should be fine.

Sent you a PM with an idea:

If we have a green LED on whilst all is good (7.5v - 8.4v), amber LED on instead (7.2v - 7.5v) and red LED (under 7.2v) is that possible, and easy, or a difficult prospect?

Another question - I know how to test resistors, but how do you test diodes to see what rating they are? Also, what makes the zener diodes different to normal ones?