n64- screen question

Maniac_Man · Post by **Maniac_Man** » Sat May 28, 2005 11:09 am

is there any way i could use my screen by hooking up the power from part of the 64 so i dont have to use 5 more batteries?

nos_slived · Post by **nos_slived** » Sat May 28, 2005 12:22 pm

If you are using a screen with the same voltage rating as your batteries, hook it straight to them. If it uses less, use a regulator to go down. If it uses more, you will need a step-up transformer and mega high capacity batteries.

daguuy · Post by **daguuy** » Mon May 30, 2005 1:47 pm

nos_slived wrote:If it uses more, you will need a step-up transformer and mega high capacity batteries.

use batteries with the right voltage for the thing that needs the most and use regulators for whatever needs lower voltage

nos_slived · Post by **nos_slived** » Mon May 30, 2005 6:41 pm

Either way works.

daguuy · Post by **daguuy** » Mon May 30, 2005 6:45 pm

transformers only work with AC current. batteries are DC. voltage regulators would be easier to use anyway

nos_slived · Post by **nos_slived** » Mon May 30, 2005 6:48 pm

Not too hard to convert the DC to AC.

loverare · Post by **loverare** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 7:06 am

If I haven't a official screen, it a probleme for the buid of N64p.
And about the picture quality, it's the same as official screen or smaller.

This is the screen: http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie ... Track=true

MM007 · Post by **MM007** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 1:48 pm

nos_slived wrote:Not too hard to convert the DC to AC.

Um...converting from AC to DC is easy, converting back up is not so easy.

4 diodes and some caps or chokes (AC -> DC)vs. a center-tap transformer and two or more power capacitors, plus more components (DC -> AC).

*o* · Post by ***o*** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 3:49 pm

or you can buy rectifiers ( 4 diodes in 1)!

usbcd36 · Post by **usbcd36** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 9:41 pm

I have a question that I don't believe requires another topic: if you do the N64 RGB mod, how do you get RGB? (I don't live in Europe and can't find a SNES RGB cable, but I wouldn't waste my money anyway.)

I want to use it in my N64p for the PSone screen, but where do you get csync? I already know about the 220?F capacitors on the R, G and B lines, but where does the csync come from?

Post by **Gamelver** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:18 pm

well...you COULD just get c-sync from the composite...but I'm guessing you want it straight from the n64

?...well, er..for the SNES RGB mod, you can get c-sync from pin 7 of the IC U7.....perhaps that applies to the N64 as well....

usbcd36 · Post by **usbcd36** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:53 pm

What and where? If csync is directly outputted by the N64, I see no reason to re-generate it. We shall see if it truly is!

Of course, now I have to re-remove the 28 or so screws to get the board back out because I closed it up for the night, again.

Post by **Gamelver** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:57 pm

that sucks

....anyway, I'm not totally sure that the n-64 can output c-sync...but it probably does

...just gotta find it

btw, pin 3 is c-sync on the SNES...

usbcd36 · Post by **usbcd36** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 11:06 pm

Well, if they say a SNES RGB cable will work with a modded N64, it should work.

The screws mainly hold the heatsink on and transfer the heat to it. I am going to end up including the original heatsink in my portable, just because it can become VERY thin and I will have a fan. It will make the board thinner and thus, the whole portable.

I also have another idea, you know how the Z button is only accessable when holding the center prong of the controller with the control stick and the L button when you are holding the D-Pad? I figure if I have the control stick at one position and the Z button as the "butt button" (it will be hinged like it already is in the controller), then I can have the D-Pad lower and the L button angled into the case so it works like the original controller!

I am having trouble with the expansion pak though, I am thinking about just having a PCB made that mimics the card edge that goes in the connector and just soldering it to the pak card edge. This is an expensive idea, but it might work if I can't do it the way I want to.