Gamecube video mods+GC info
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- nos_slived
- Higher Idiot
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Pins 1, 2, 4, 6, and 8 are obvious. Pin 3 isn't needed unless you need V SYNC, so that can be tied to ground. I'm almost positive that pins 5 and 6 can also be tied to ground(somebody please confirm). You can mount it on the side of the case, a separate PCB, or anything else, as long as it's non-conductive.
- nos_slived
- Higher Idiot
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see that diagram that's two posts up that's the way I've put it
would it matter which way you but the risistor or capacitor??
i have 2 chip to be sure that it works but the problem is i don't know what side is which so how am i sopposded to know where connection 1 is so what i did is make to the same but one with the chip the other way round
so i have two of them and both don't work?????
and that diagram how doe sthe chiop need to be on it's back with pins up or with pins on the ground??
would it matter which way you but the risistor or capacitor??
i have 2 chip to be sure that it works but the problem is i don't know what side is which so how am i sopposded to know where connection 1 is so what i did is make to the same but one with the chip the other way round
so i have two of them and both don't work?????
and that diagram how doe sthe chiop need to be on it's back with pins up or with pins on the ground??
- usbcd36
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Ok, I made this diagram to have the outputs that you see be the other leads of the capacitors. If this doesn't work for you, I can't help you because I don't understand PAL well and could use some RGB devices in my house to monkey around with anyway. If it doesn't work, I can't really help you.
Oh, and the chip is in the same position as it is on the website that explains the extraction circuit. Standing on the ground with the pins like legs, pin 1 should be marked by a notch or something.
Resistors and ceramic capacitors are reversable, they don't have to be put in a certain way to work.
Oh, and the chip is in the same position as it is on the website that explains the extraction circuit. Standing on the ground with the pins like legs, pin 1 should be marked by a notch or something.
Resistors and ceramic capacitors are reversable, they don't have to be put in a certain way to work.
- Turbo Tax 1.0
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Gamelver wrote:today I got finished with the contoller wiring !!!!!!!!!!! finally!!!!!!! It was really hard to solder the wires to the controller chip, but I decided to just scrape off the white crap off the board, find out which copper traces connected to the pins I needed, and soldered to those instead. only took me 45 minutes, or so. sometime today or tommorow I'll completely finish all the wiring and on monday I hope to start working on the case. By the end of next week I hope to get the case built, and then I'll just put everything in there the week after that. and then....it shall be finished.......*goes off to dream about finishing the GCp*.......before this, I wrote:All right here's a pinout of the power regulator voltages:
first of all here's how the power regulator board looks:
all you really have to worry about are pins 12-22. pin 13 is 3.4v, pins 16-18 are 1.9v, pin 21 is 12v, and pin 22 is 5v. also you have to make sure you have ground.
here's the pins on the GC ( that box with the lines is the heatsink....I suck at paint):
pins 2 and 13 need 3.4v, pins 6,7,16,17,18,19 need 1.9v, pin 10 needs 12v, and pins 11 and 22 need 5v. just make sure that the pins that I've grouped together, like 6, 7, 16, 17, 18, 19 are connected together. they should be, though.
and that's how you only need 5 wires to attach the gc power regulator board to the GC board!!!!!!!!!!!!! that "bit of bad news" was that a gc regulator had fried and so I ordered another one....
* oh yeah if you turn on your GC and you don't get any sound, try getting the 12v not from the pin on the GC power regulator, but directly from the actual GC ac adapter. I also tried that from the 14.8v li-poly battery pack and it worked fine.
- Turbo Tax 1.0
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- Zzebotes13
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