Side A - outer layer (some of the inner layer has been exposed)
Side B - outer layer
Trimming Guide (side A)
Green = Beginner possible (with sound relocation)
Red = Intermediate possible (with sound relocation and relocating 3.4v line from power pins)
Blue = Experienced works on "DOL-CPU-20" boards (sound relocation and relocating 3.4v line from power pins, also have to find traces and vias for controller and memory card A/B)
Purple = BAMF POSSIBLE thanks to Zenloc! (fairly basic, put the voltages to their respective areas, some relocating with tiny resistor chips and a capacitor or two, pending guide by Zenloc)
Assuming trace latency was not an issue, you could essentially relocate the entire board and cut it into many pieces. As long as the 3 different voltages got to their proper components and everything was wired properly, the board would work.
BTW, the gamecube can run off 3.7v according to Zenloc's findings. Assuming you are using 3.7v batteries, you will need 2 regulators: A 1.9v regulator (brings 3.7v to 1.9v) and a 3.3v regulator (brings wall power's 12v to 3.3 which can then go to the 3.3v spot of the board AND the 1.9v regulator).
Now, don't be confused, the 3.7v and 3.3v lines ARE INDEED going to the same places. New research has found that the "3.3v line" on the board can take fairly high voltages and even the peak voltage of a 3.7v battery would be safe (credits to Zenloc).
I still have to test all of this, but this basically means we can run the cube off 3.7v and 1.9v. The 5v line is no longer needed ASSUMING YOU ARE USING THE WIIKEY FUSION MOD.
^ if anything is wrong, someone, please tell me
I'll add scans of the inner layers in a week or so
thank Beta/jjhamesteinreiwssdklghxfklgn
