DreamBox - bacteria's DreamCast project

[bacteria]

2 problems with using my vacuum case - 1) not high enough as the DreamCast's drive is so thick, 2) touch and go if can trim the DC board down enough to fit in the case - would mean rewiring parts of the DC board, which may or may not work.

The replacement case is only a few millimeters broader, but enough, and also flat on sides which takes away trimming needs. The lunchbox is barely large enough to fit the DC board, ideal!

[roxasnobody]

2 problems with using my vacuum case - 1) not high enough as the DreamCast's drive is so thick, 2) touch and go if can trim the DC board down enough to fit in the case - would mean rewiring parts of the DC board, which may or may not work.

The replacement case is only a few millimeters broader, but enough, and also flat on sides which takes away trimming needs. The lunchbox is barely large enough to fit the DC board, ideal!

so,mate any new updates on the console ?

[bacteria]

Indeed, making a modded case out of tupperware - will post completed thread here when done, in meantime, please check it out as WIP on THIS LINK - curved sides and edges on top and bottom.

[bacteria]

Innovative Bacteria here! For the case base:

Had brainwave - for the CD tray - why make a clip on drive unit, like on the IntoPlay (case slightly too small to incorporate a PSone front) - the tupperware is pretty near exactly the same breadth as the PSone console, slightly wider. PERFECT! I can modify the PSone case top to take a DreamCast drive unit, and thereby be able to use a pre-made CD loader surround! Needs modding work, but result is worth it - also, the backing to the case will be nicely rounded in shape!



Drew out an outline of a CD on the DreamCast. Can't use a DC case - far too big.



Used a drill to cut out the hole, afterwards, used a sanding drum to finish off.



Result



Did same on PSone case front



Trimmed the DC drive a bit to fit like this







Need to trim a little more off the PSone case so the DC drive unit fits flush.

Need to fill in the gaps and pretty it.

[bacteria]

Thanks!

More updates - been working hard for a while on this today!

You can see how much I have had to trim off the DC drive surround - right up near the motor gears, in fact. Cut it quite exact, so will need to use this "backup" drive as the main drive now! (not too hard to connect the ribbon).



Had to cut more off the PSone case, so the drive unit can sink properly in, and the CD's can spin freely (they didn't when I started this trimming). Great now.



As you see with this design, I need the plastic case surround for the DC, or the motor assembly won't be positioned properly. Another reason I can't reduce this part further in height. After this pic was taken, removed the surplus legs on the case.



Removed the lid from the PSone case, drew a cut-out and stuck it onto the case in position, so the hinge mechanism is at the back of the case. Doing a template this way is efficient - just cut around the hole!



Used electric sander to sand down the top of the PSone case (another reason to remove the CD lid). This means it can be mounted better.



Putting the PSone case on top and bondo it would look amateurish and it would be hard to get the curves good, so much better to have the case back flat with a pop-up lid.

UPDATE:

Cut out the CD tray from the case backing:



It's coming on nicely!

[bacteria]

Thought I would upload a video of how things are at the moment. It is an unpolished video, on the fly; very much so in fact!

The mouse didn't work, and in fact, tried a couple of things to get it to work, ended up killing the mouse! Not a problem, realised that of course it wouldn't be any good anyway - rather than constantly moving the mouse about, which is less than ideal, I am better off connecting a digital d-pad to the analogue joystick to do what I want - that way, you can move left and right as needed, up and down when required. You can make a digital d-pad work this way by connecting the connectors to the joystick pins. Other option is to put in two small joysticks, one for vertical and one for horizontal - will experiment to which is best!!

Had system running for about an hour, no heat issues, quite stable, although I think there is a loose connection in the MadCatz controller as every now and again it comes up with "controller disconnected/reconnected"

For this longer test period, used mains (a PSone power supply, 7.5v) as too lazy to resolder some thicker wires from the battery to the system - the battery connectors in the video get quite hot after just a couple of minutes - due to the amps going through them.

Video is a bit jovial, thought it appropriate!

It was only a WIP video after all, one of many tests needed.

Anyway, here is the video for your entertainment: YouTube

[bacteria]

The DC sometimes rebooted, figured this was because the 5v line only had a slightly thicker wire than normal, so gave it a thick 3 amp wire, seems to have done the trick.

One thing for sure, the DC is a hungry beast, the PSone official 7.5v power supply gets a little warm running the whole system. This power supply is 3 amps; at a rough calculation, based on daftmike's measurements, and adding an unmodded PSone screen, must push the system to about 2.6 - 2.7 amps; so fairly close to the ceiling on the power supply!

Did another video today on the controllers. I had rigged up an N64 Mikopad, and N64 SuperPad 64; also a digital d-pad to the analogue joystick (this can be done quiet easily). Decided on the SuperPad (see video).

Comments?

YouTube video

[64M320N3]

Wow, it looks so beautiful.
It is going to be amazing! I can't wait to see how it turns out!

[bacteria]

Again, keep forgetting to update this log as much as the ModRetro one - never mind. More pics:

Made screwposts from old PSone controllers to keep the DC drive in place - 2 screw holes to keep the drive assembly secure and in the right place.



Swapped the old drive for a different one; circuit on the back of the laser assembly was a different colour, didn't think it mattered, obviously it did as the DC didn't play any games. Swapped it back to the old one again (after making the cutout in the drive top as per the other one, so it fitted in the PSone assembly in the case), all fine.

Removed the metal plate under the drive unit. Cut away some of the plastic base too, so the power plugs fit through.

This keeps it all as low as possible.

Have to make sure the drive unit is straight with the ribbon to the bottom board, otherwise a game doesn't start as the ribbon isn't free enough to move. When I am confident it is positioned correctly (pretty sure at the moment), will hot glue it in place.

Idea is to release the top of the case from the system, unscrew 2 screws.

Looks like I have got the overall height so far to about 48mm; so estimate the final height of the portable will be 48mm + 6mm for the extra height to the back of the case, plus the PSone screen, case, controller about 18mm; so finish about 72mm; as previously estimated.

It is hard to see how a DreamCast can be made slimmer.



When finished positioning the drive precisely, will need to get the batteries installed.

Everything still works fine!

[bacteria]

Started to cut holes in case front, done the joystick, screen and VMU screen holes. Got lots more holes to cut! Everything is right up together, literally. Will post pic when all the holes are prepared, prior to spray painting it.

[bacteria]

Still have holes to cut out yet, shoulder buttons, on/off, etc.

Implementing a feature into this - playing Q*Bert on the portable is too hard as you normally have to rotate your controller (can't do that if integrated into a portable), so going to use the screen and volume buttons as dual function as a "tilted" d-pad for Q*Bert. Just need a couple of switches to do this.

In the pic, the VMU will be on the top right, top left is an N64 SuperPad joystick (far more control than a normal joystick), d-pad on middle left side, speakers bottom left and right, start button (the diamond shaped button from a DC controller pad. More holes to make, yet. Everything had to be mapped out properly do didn't get into problems during assembly.



When done, will give the case top a good sanding and smoothing before spray painting.

[64M320N3]

Wow, it looks really beautiful!
But why implement something that is only used for one game? Q*Bert isn't even that great anyway.

[bacteria]

Reason is that I needed the volume +- and contrast +- buttons anyway, so rather than using small button-topped tact switches, replaced them with rubber tact switches with larger buttons. Wasn't going to put in extra buttons for Q*bert, however, by doing this little extra work, it made it compatible!

[bacteria]

Spent quite a while working out if to put the shoulder buttons under the case, to the sides, where. Decided on the top corners, just down from the top. Feels comfortable there.

Desoldered the variable pot from both of the shoulder buttons, hot glued them back in place. Cut holes in case, the trigger sticks out plenty, but not overly obviously.

[bacteria]

Small update.

After adding PolyFiller (fine crack, quick dry) on the rim to make it smooth with the top of the case (and not look like a lunchbox), gave it a thorough sanding with a foam sanding block.



PolyFiller is a good filler however of course it isn't strong in itself. You can add PVA to it afterwards to make it strong, however I have a better trick up my sleeve this time around - normally, you might have small pits or whatever in the case around where applied filler, etc. You then need to add a little more filler, sand etc. My idea is this - as you are using paint (spray paint) anyway, why not apply wall paint (matt) directly, then once dried, sand that smooth! Paint sands ok, smooth, and fills in tiny cracks etc too.



So, will sand that when dry; cut off about half the height of the lunchbox, sand smooth, then time to paint. The lunchbox is slightly curved, so if cut in nearly half height, to match the bottom half, then the two halves will meet quite exactly. The sides need reinforcement of course, will use perspex for that. I will also incorporate screw posts too.

On the top half of the case, there will be holes for the screen controls, system on/off and two 2P2T switches to alternate between the PSone screen controls and the slanted d-pad (Q*Bert).

BTW - People say Unreal Tournament isn't great, sure, however it was revamped for the DreamCast and looks pretty fine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xjoxmB7cuw" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; If it is as good as it looks, then that game and Quake 3 will be the main reasons for play on the portable for sure!