Dc don't power up using picoPSU ? And my new DCp project !!
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Hi, I'm making a DC portable for fun, I'm a experienced DC hacker and I've made a lot of hacks on my DCs already(cdrw-able switch, overclock, leds, reset button, Dance Dance Revolution board, etc.)
I've heard that the DC was able to work with a mini-itx psu, so I though, IT SHOULD WORKS WITH A picoPSU TOO ??!!
Here's the picoPSU I got: http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl;jsessionid ... t=A&id=417
SO, I've soldered togheter the PWR_GRND and PWR_ON pin, linked it to a GameCube wall adaptor(12v 3.25A), and them put pins soldered to my psu's 3v 5v 12v and grnd .. and when I plug it all ... it constantly reboot.. the orange led even flicker ... I dunno what it can be ...
Can any of you help me to find what it is ? maybe is there something I must know about theses little psus that might create this problem ...
Thank you very much !
-=FamilyGuy=-
I've heard that the DC was able to work with a mini-itx psu, so I though, IT SHOULD WORKS WITH A picoPSU TOO ??!!
Here's the picoPSU I got: http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl;jsessionid ... t=A&id=417
SO, I've soldered togheter the PWR_GRND and PWR_ON pin, linked it to a GameCube wall adaptor(12v 3.25A), and them put pins soldered to my psu's 3v 5v 12v and grnd .. and when I plug it all ... it constantly reboot.. the orange led even flicker ... I dunno what it can be ...
Can any of you help me to find what it is ? maybe is there something I must know about theses little psus that might create this problem ...
Thank you very much !
-=FamilyGuy=-
Last edited by -=FamilyGuy=- on Sat Apr 14, 2007 11:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Joined:Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:19 am
Oh, I see... it might be a little too low...
I just tried to power it on with the 12v line not-connected, and it does the same, I really think that the DC needs more amps ...
But, I jsut saw there: http://resources.mini-box.com/online/PW ... l-engl.pdf
That the 12v line can have 7A or something ... also, the remote on/off thing might be the problem ...
I also tried using the cd-drive's 12v line.. it don't works ... I think I'll split the 12v in to the psuthen plug my 12v in (to dc) and my picopsu in parallel
THenk you for your lightspeed fast reply, If you find anything else, feel free to help me !!
thank you
-=FamilyGuy=-
I just tried to power it on with the 12v line not-connected, and it does the same, I really think that the DC needs more amps ...
But, I jsut saw there: http://resources.mini-box.com/online/PW ... l-engl.pdf
That the 12v line can have 7A or something ... also, the remote on/off thing might be the problem ...
I also tried using the cd-drive's 12v line.. it don't works ... I think I'll split the 12v in to the psuthen plug my 12v in (to dc) and my picopsu in parallel
THenk you for your lightspeed fast reply, If you find anything else, feel free to help me !!
thank you
-=FamilyGuy=-
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- Joined:Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:19 am
I truly beleive that it's what you think it is, and you do it this way : http://semicolo.free.fr/Dreamcast/cdrw/index.html
As for my DCp problem, i'll check today and post if it's oslved or if there's still problems !
-=FamilyGuy=-
[EDIT]
I've just fixed it!! I've linked PWR_ON and the normal ground togheter and it works like a charm, I think that it was for the sleep mone PWR_ON and PWR_GRND ...
Here's a pic ! Notice how space it save, I'd be able to put a bunch of batteries at this place, instead of the original psu...
High def :
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k19/_ ... astv_0.jpg
On the pic, it runs from a gamecube wall adaptor (12v 3.25A) and then screen from a 7.5v somy battery, i've ordered a regualtor to plug my screen in the 12v in and it'll all works from a 12 intput the switch at the right is a reset switch, this dc is Region-Changer-ABLE(bios flash able) and It was overclocked, but since i've corrupted like 4 vmu this way, i've put it back to normal.
Thanks for your help !
-=FamilyGuy=-
As for my DCp problem, i'll check today and post if it's oslved or if there's still problems !
-=FamilyGuy=-
[EDIT]
I've just fixed it!! I've linked PWR_ON and the normal ground togheter and it works like a charm, I think that it was for the sleep mone PWR_ON and PWR_GRND ...
Here's a pic ! Notice how space it save, I'd be able to put a bunch of batteries at this place, instead of the original psu...
High def :
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k19/_ ... astv_0.jpg
On the pic, it runs from a gamecube wall adaptor (12v 3.25A) and then screen from a 7.5v somy battery, i've ordered a regualtor to plug my screen in the 12v in and it'll all works from a 12 intput the switch at the right is a reset switch, this dc is Region-Changer-ABLE(bios flash able) and It was overclocked, but since i've corrupted like 4 vmu this way, i've put it back to normal.
Thanks for your help !
-=FamilyGuy=-
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- Joined:Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:19 am
dont quote me on this but i think i read somewhere some one saying it was-=FamilyGuy=- wrote:No problem I only need a way to split the contoroller and it's hafl-done !
Does any of you know if it's easier to split a mad cat controller than a sega one ?
-=FamilyGuy=-
Kurt_ wrote: I would use tact switches but I want the mushy feel. Mushy = God. (I typed that correctly).
I'm not a 100% sure if the MadCat is what I'm thinking. But there is a 3rd party that has the controller cable going the right way. I would have to say as I've seen a Sega 1st party controller disassembled a 3rd party should be easier. But if you want to be sure, look at both PCBs and evaluate them for yourself, you're the only soldering them together you'd know your abilities better then anyone.-=FamilyGuy=- wrote:No problem I only need a way to split the contoroller and it's hafl-done !
Does any of you know if it's easier to split a mad cat controller than a sega one ?
-=FamilyGuy=-
vskid wrote:Nerd = likes school, does all their homework, dies if they don't get 100% on every assignment
Geek = likes technology, dies if the power goes out and his UPS dies too
I am a geek.
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Well, I think I can solder a 1st party one, but since there's so much litle connections and "trace", I'm afraid to kill something, or to have 45 wires hanging out ... can anybody find me a 3r (mad cat plz) party pcb picture ? It'd be greatly appreciated !!
I can also remap somebuttons to tact switchs, but this way I can't do the analog joystick and triggers ... WICH I WANT TO BE ANALOG
Thank You
-=FamilyGuy=-
I can also remap somebuttons to tact switchs, but this way I can't do the analog joystick and triggers ... WICH I WANT TO BE ANALOG
Thank You
-=FamilyGuy=-
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However I do it, I wanna keep the joystick analog, and *if possible* the L and R buttons too, but if they're going to be on the top (shoulder button) or back(butt-button ) maye that I'd not be able to do butt button analog, since I moves in a "curve", I don't really know how to express this sorry, I don't speak english really well ...
What is the more comfortable position for the triggers ? butt-button or shoulder-button ?
Thank you for all your help, it' greatly appreciated, once the "frankstein apart" joystick will be done, I'll buy some battery with high mAh (around 3000 or 6000 overall) and build a case, maybe a vacuum forming one since I made one of these table last year at school and the foreman/teacher can gimme acess to it
Thank you
-=FamilyGuy=-
[EDITT]
I just found a mad cat pcd picture on devcast :
It's so simple I cansimply "cut all of the righ portion, keep only the analog aprt, and re-wire the ABXY buttons on a perforated pcb using tack switchs, or the original swirly things, it'll be what i'll take !
Just one quetion : What are the C and Z buttons for ?
What is the more comfortable position for the triggers ? butt-button or shoulder-button ?
Thank you for all your help, it' greatly appreciated, once the "frankstein apart" joystick will be done, I'll buy some battery with high mAh (around 3000 or 6000 overall) and build a case, maybe a vacuum forming one since I made one of these table last year at school and the foreman/teacher can gimme acess to it
Thank you
-=FamilyGuy=-
[EDITT]
I just found a mad cat pcd picture on devcast :
It's so simple I cansimply "cut all of the righ portion, keep only the analog aprt, and re-wire the ABXY buttons on a perforated pcb using tack switchs, or the original swirly things, it'll be what i'll take !
Just one quetion : What are the C and Z buttons for ?
c and z are just are just digital versions of l and r that are great to have for fighting games and arcade games but not needed. the madcatz controller look like it would be way easy to use. where are you from?
Kurt_ wrote: I would use tact switches but I want the mushy feel. Mushy = God. (I typed that correctly).
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- Joined:Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:19 am
Yeah! I'll order one soon.
I'm from Québec, the french-talking part of Canada
Ho! I forgot in my presentation on the first post, that I also rip dc games using a dvd-drive (LTD-165H) and swapping, it works well, for the majority of games I also got a coder calbe, but dvd-drive is way faster ... between BBA and Serial but tends to the BBA (in fact I can rip in like 16x but I'd be corrupted ...) Here's my setup : http://www.segakatana.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=146
Note: if it's not really liked to post links to others site here, simply tell me and i'll remove this one.)
So c and z are like L and R but not analog ? ... ok ...
Thank you again !
-=FamilyGuy=-
I'm from Québec, the french-talking part of Canada
Ho! I forgot in my presentation on the first post, that I also rip dc games using a dvd-drive (LTD-165H) and swapping, it works well, for the majority of games I also got a coder calbe, but dvd-drive is way faster ... between BBA and Serial but tends to the BBA (in fact I can rip in like 16x but I'd be corrupted ...) Here's my setup : http://www.segakatana.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=146
Note: if it's not really liked to post links to others site here, simply tell me and i'll remove this one.)
So c and z are like L and R but not analog ? ... ok ...
Thank you again !
-=FamilyGuy=-