ive found a surefire way to get those stubborn screws out other than the gamebit! my normal method as described earlier in the thread still applies but sometimes it doesnt work! what ive found that heating a ground flat nail or peice of metal of simialr size and shape (large nail, i use the metal rod from the snes eject button) with a torch or butane lighter and getting it plenty warm (use pliers to not burn yourself!) and just pressing it on to the head of the nintendo screw for a little bit heats the plastic just enough to make them a peice of cake to turn out! and you dont destroy the screw holes or case in the process!
My method of opening up Nintendo systems involves a 4mm hex screw bit. I had to machine it down, though because some screws are set in too deep and the wide area of the bit would hit the casing. After it was machined, I used it to remove the screws from any and all my Nintendo systems(obviously, I replaced them by standard Philips-head screws). I'll put up some pictures of the screw bit a little later.
Modifying a regular flat head screwdriver with a dremel tool is the easiest way to get the Gamebit screws out. Here is a pic of the tool I made with my Dad today (took about 15 minutes).
Dont use any expensive screws
For my GCp I took a pair of pipe pliers put one side in and just cracked the plastic opened and when I could not do it I drilled some holes and continued the process
Granted I was worried I would hurt the insides but I got it, a gameboy player, and a screen for $30
I use an E-4 torx bit for the 3.8mm screws in game carts. I have tried external torx sockets for the snes but couldn't get any that would fit. Will have to try some more sockets. I'm a mechanic so there should be something in my toolbox to fit them. If not I will get these. They are tempered steel should last better than the other bits I have heard people compaining about striping out..
Scratch that I think I would rather have the right tool. Even though the E-4 bit will work for the 3.8mm and the E-6 will fit the 4.5mm it's still a pain to remove the screws that way. I also tried my 4mm deep craftsman socket it just don't work. It would if I file the end a bit so it removes the rounded edge but would rather not do that.
I can understand why to use these methods but... to save you time, try ordering the tools
here is a link to a website called Nintendo repair shop. They sell all items discounted and guaranteed, shipping is fast and filling information out is cake.
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Umm... no it's not.
Making stuff with my new beautiful CNC machine!
Would you like a professional looking custom case for your portable? I may be able to help you. Check out this link: http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=32724
This site is not authorized, affiliated or endorsed by Nintendo
Umm... no it's not.
OMGWTFBBQROFLPWNT
Banned indefinitely if you desperately need to contact me STOPPHONESPAMPLOX Please dont be a dick and call for something random like "HEY YURDRUE DOO U HAZ SPAM?"
wallydawg wrote:
chainfire95 wrote:220V I believe
I think we should check to see if you can withstand 220 volts
Making stuff with my new beautiful CNC machine!
Would you like a professional looking custom case for your portable? I may be able to help you. Check out this link: http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=32724