Hip Gear Screen Pad pinouts & power req's
Moderator:Moderators
'AV cable' for ps2 version
pin #, color, description
8, black (outer coax), composite vid gnd
6, black (inner coax), comp. video
2, red w/black stripe, R audio
4, red w/white stripe, L audio
1 & 3, white, audio gnd
Control board connector
orange: wall wart tip/power (12-20VDC)
green: wall wart ring/gnd also audio gnd
Control board soldered wires (other side)
white: R audio
red: L audio
black: audio gnd
Video board/control board connector
n/c
grey \
grey - adjust common
grey /
n/c
n/c
black: brightness wiper
yellow: contrast wiper
white: saturation wiper
purple: adjust common #2
yellow: composite video
brown: video gnd
n/c
black: power gnd
red: 12-20VDC power from wall wart when turned on
Control board power:
TDA2822 is STA 1W headphone/audio amp, requires 6-12VDC
7808 is 8V regulator. desoldering/clipping reduces power consumption by ~20mA
Video board power:
multiple regulators including boost for CCFL backlight (BA97XX dual PWM driver). since there is non-linear regulation, any voltage from 5-20V will be approximatly equiv. in power consumption. Except for LM117 (SOT-223 in middle) which is a linear regulator and perhaps some other, unlabled linear regulators.
due to linear regulators, lower voltages will tend to give slighly higher efficiency.
required power:
5V @ 350mA = 1.75W
6V @ 300mA = 1.8W
9V @ 210mA = 1.9W
10V @ 190mA = 1.9W
12V @ 160mA = 1.9W
14V@ 150mA = 2.1W
etc.
Add 20mA if using 7808/audio amp, more if speakers are actually playing.
(for example if coupling with 'power player' which requires 50mA @ 5V, either use lithium ion battery, and boost to 5V, or use 4 nimh and connect directly, or use 4 alkaline and LDO to 5V for nintendo chip. Assuming no audio, 1.5Ah lipoly battery @ 3.7 = 5W after 90% efficiency conversion -> 2.5Hr game play. 4xAlkaline @ 3Ah -> 7Hr. 4xNiMH @ 2Ah -> 5Hr)
ladyada (a) media,mit,edu
pin #, color, description
8, black (outer coax), composite vid gnd
6, black (inner coax), comp. video
2, red w/black stripe, R audio
4, red w/white stripe, L audio
1 & 3, white, audio gnd
Control board connector
orange: wall wart tip/power (12-20VDC)
green: wall wart ring/gnd also audio gnd
Control board soldered wires (other side)
white: R audio
red: L audio
black: audio gnd
Video board/control board connector
n/c
grey \
grey - adjust common
grey /
n/c
n/c
black: brightness wiper
yellow: contrast wiper
white: saturation wiper
purple: adjust common #2
yellow: composite video
brown: video gnd
n/c
black: power gnd
red: 12-20VDC power from wall wart when turned on
Control board power:
TDA2822 is STA 1W headphone/audio amp, requires 6-12VDC
7808 is 8V regulator. desoldering/clipping reduces power consumption by ~20mA
Video board power:
multiple regulators including boost for CCFL backlight (BA97XX dual PWM driver). since there is non-linear regulation, any voltage from 5-20V will be approximatly equiv. in power consumption. Except for LM117 (SOT-223 in middle) which is a linear regulator and perhaps some other, unlabled linear regulators.
due to linear regulators, lower voltages will tend to give slighly higher efficiency.
required power:
5V @ 350mA = 1.75W
6V @ 300mA = 1.8W
9V @ 210mA = 1.9W
10V @ 190mA = 1.9W
12V @ 160mA = 1.9W
14V@ 150mA = 2.1W
etc.
Add 20mA if using 7808/audio amp, more if speakers are actually playing.
(for example if coupling with 'power player' which requires 50mA @ 5V, either use lithium ion battery, and boost to 5V, or use 4 nimh and connect directly, or use 4 alkaline and LDO to 5V for nintendo chip. Assuming no audio, 1.5Ah lipoly battery @ 3.7 = 5W after 90% efficiency conversion -> 2.5Hr game play. 4xAlkaline @ 3Ah -> 7Hr. 4xNiMH @ 2Ah -> 5Hr)
ladyada (a) media,mit,edu
So the screen can run on less then 8v? If thats the case that changes everything. I could easily use that on one of my NOACs I have. Thanks for submitting all that useful info.
vskid wrote:Nerd = likes school, does all their homework, dies if they don't get 100% on every assignment
Geek = likes technology, dies if the power goes out and his UPS dies too
I am a geek.
Should this be stickied? One of the noobish questions you always hear is "CAn I use On of Theos screeN coNtroOler th1ngs???"
Last edited by HK-47 on Fri Mar 04, 2005 4:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Just a question. If I were to remove the 7808 regulator and use just power straight from batteries I wouldnt have any problem(s)? I'd like to get it hooked up to either my NOAC or one of my PSOnes.
vskid wrote:Nerd = likes school, does all their homework, dies if they don't get 100% on every assignment
Geek = likes technology, dies if the power goes out and his UPS dies too
I am a geek.
- cennar
- Senior Member
- Posts:2939
- Joined:Wed Jun 02, 2004 7:57 am
- Location:yesterdays brothel, and todays vaccume store
- Contact:
noacs are small do bouth.. i was just looking over that and i might just save my second hip gear screen and make my GOAC and NOAC in one console.
with the second one since its a pritty good 2" screen i might make it in to a personal media device... to bad the nano is not comming here till spring. but ill rig up the head set any ways
with the second one since its a pritty good 2" screen i might make it in to a personal media device... to bad the nano is not comming here till spring. but ill rig up the head set any ways
i actually rebuilt the contrast/color/etc board but from what i remember, when i disconnected it, it looked pretty good by default.
the 7808 does not connect to the screen at all, its only for the audio amp
there are more images at
http://www.media.mit.edu/~ladyada/make/gamegrrl/fab
the 7808 does not connect to the screen at all, its only for the audio amp
there are more images at
http://www.media.mit.edu/~ladyada/make/gamegrrl/fab
-
- Sir Posts-alot
- Posts:4186
- Joined:Fri Jun 04, 2004 4:10 pm
ummm...it took you that long to notice?JackFrost22 wrote:game grrl posibly game girl. Oh shaving cream we have a girl in our midst.
http://web.media.mit.edu/~ladyada/bio/index.html
You got some awesome stuff. I like the nixie clock.ladyada wrote:i actually rebuilt the contrast/color/etc board but from what i remember, when i disconnected it, it looked pretty good by default.
the 7808 does not connect to the screen at all, its only for the audio amp
there are more images at
http://www.media.mit.edu/~ladyada/make/gamegrrl/fab
You only just realised that?JackFrost22 wrote:game grrl posibly game girl. Oh shaving cream we have a girl in our midst.
Ladyada you quite a few pics. I noticed you rebuilt the contoller board with only 3 nobs, did you just leave the color one out?
So after I remove/chip the regulator I just put power in to the red line? If thats the case then this shouldnt take long. Also I'm just making sure as I hate to waste things so I'm just covering my back.
That clock looks pretty cool, I like the look of diamond plate.
vskid wrote:Nerd = likes school, does all their homework, dies if they don't get 100% on every assignment
Geek = likes technology, dies if the power goes out and his UPS dies too
I am a geek.
Here's the parts and what they connect to from what I can tell.
3 2.2kOhm resistors "1 to adjust common 2"
1 1KOhm resistor "adjust common"
1 4.7KOhm resistor
2 10KOhm Pots "Contrast & Saturation"
1??Ohm Pot "Brightness"
Kinda hard to tell exactly from the pictures though
Edit:
I just realized she used a strip board and not bread board, so the connections are a bit more clear.
Edit again:
I think this is pretty accurate, but I'm not certain.
3 2.2kOhm resistors "1 to adjust common 2"
1 1KOhm resistor "adjust common"
1 4.7KOhm resistor
2 10KOhm Pots "Contrast & Saturation"
1??Ohm Pot "Brightness"
Kinda hard to tell exactly from the pictures though
Edit:
I just realized she used a strip board and not bread board, so the connections are a bit more clear.
Edit again:
I think this is pretty accurate, but I'm not certain.