Hip Gear Screen Pad pinouts & power req's

ladyada · Post by **ladyada** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 2:05 am

'AV cable' for ps2 version
pin #, color, description
8, black (outer coax), composite vid gnd
6, black (inner coax), comp. video
2, red w/black stripe, R audio
4, red w/white stripe, L audio
1 & 3, white, audio gnd

Control board connector
orange: wall wart tip/power (12-20VDC)
green: wall wart ring/gnd also audio gnd
Control board soldered wires (other side)
white: R audio
red: L audio
black: audio gnd

Video board/control board connector

n/c
grey \
grey - adjust common
grey /
n/c
n/c
black: brightness wiper
yellow: contrast wiper
white: saturation wiper
purple: adjust common #2
yellow: composite video
brown: video gnd
n/c
black: power gnd
red: 12-20VDC power from wall wart when turned on

Control board power:
TDA2822 is STA 1W headphone/audio amp, requires 6-12VDC
7808 is 8V regulator. desoldering/clipping reduces power consumption by ~20mA

Video board power:
multiple regulators including boost for CCFL backlight (BA97XX dual PWM driver). since there is non-linear regulation, any voltage from 5-20V will be approximatly equiv. in power consumption. Except for LM117 (SOT-223 in middle) which is a linear regulator and perhaps some other, unlabled linear regulators.
due to linear regulators, lower voltages will tend to give slighly higher efficiency.
required power:
5V @ 350mA = 1.75W
6V @ 300mA = 1.8W
9V @ 210mA = 1.9W
10V @ 190mA = 1.9W
12V @ 160mA = 1.9W
14V@ 150mA = 2.1W
etc.

Add 20mA if using 7808/audio amp, more if speakers are actually playing.

(for example if coupling with 'power player' which requires 50mA @ 5V, either use lithium ion battery, and boost to 5V, or use 4 nimh and connect directly, or use 4 alkaline and LDO to 5V for nintendo chip. Assuming no audio, 1.5Ah lipoly battery @ 3.7 = 5W after 90% efficiency conversion -> 2.5Hr game play. 4xAlkaline @ 3Ah -> 7Hr. 4xNiMH @ 2Ah -> 5Hr)

ladyada (a) media,mit,edu

Post by **Sparkfist** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 2:35 am

So the screen can run on less then 8v? If thats the case that changes everything. I could easily use that on one of my NOACs I have. Thanks for submitting all that useful info.

Post by **gannon** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 6:00 am

Thanks for the info. This should provide a fairly nice source of cheap screens then.

HK-47 · Post by **HK-47** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 2:26 pm

Should this be stickied? One of the noobish questions you always hear is "CAn I use On of Theos screeN coNtroOler th1ngs???"

Post by **Sparkfist** » Thu Jan 13, 2005 11:44 pm

Just a question. If I were to remove the 7808 regulator and use just power straight from batteries I wouldnt have any problem(s)? I'd like to get it hooked up to either my NOAC or one of my PSOnes.

scherzo · Post by **scherzo** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:13 am

Can the board with the adjustment knobs be tossed? That would mean I'd just be left with the board that connects to the LCD.

HK-47 · Post by **HK-47** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 2:55 pm

Sparkfist wrote:Just a question. If I were to remove the 7808 regulator and use just power straight from batteries I wouldnt have any problem(s)? I'd like to get it hooked up to either my NOAC or one of my PSOnes.

There shouldnt be any problems.

cennar · Post by **cennar** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 3:12 pm

noacs are small do bouth.. i was just looking over that and i might just save my second hip gear screen and make my GOAC and NOAC in one console.

with the second one since its a pritty good 2" screen i might make it in to a personal media device... to bad the nano is not comming here till spring.

but ill rig up the head set any ways

ladyada · Post by **ladyada** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 4:54 pm

i actually rebuilt the contrast/color/etc board but from what i remember, when i disconnected it, it looked pretty good by default.

the 7808 does not connect to the screen at all, its only for the audio amp

there are more images at
http://www.media.mit.edu/~ladyada/make/gamegrrl/fab

JackFrost22 · Post by **JackFrost22** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 4:58 pm

game grrl posibly game girl. Oh crap we have a girl in our midst.

Post by **gannon** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 5:08 pm

JackFrost22 wrote:game grrl posibly game girl. Oh shaving cream we have a girl in our midst.

ummm...it took you that long to notice?
http://web.media.mit.edu/~ladyada/bio/index.html

JackFrost22 · Post by **JackFrost22** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 5:09 pm

Uh 5 days maybe a week

HK-47 · Post by **HK-47** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 5:21 pm

ladyada wrote:i actually rebuilt the contrast/color/etc board but from what i remember, when i disconnected it, it looked pretty good by default.

the 7808 does not connect to the screen at all, its only for the audio amp

there are more images at
http://www.media.mit.edu/~ladyada/make/gamegrrl/fab

You got some awesome stuff. I like the nixie clock.

Post by **Sparkfist** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 5:24 pm

JackFrost22 wrote:game grrl posibly game girl. Oh shaving cream we have a girl in our midst.

You only just realised that?

Ladyada you quite a few pics. I noticed you rebuilt the contoller board with only 3 nobs, did you just leave the color one out?

So after I remove/chip the regulator I just put power in to the red line? If thats the case then this shouldnt take long. Also I'm just making sure as I hate to waste things so I'm just covering my back.

That clock looks pretty cool, I like the look of diamond plate.

Post by **gannon** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 5:39 pm

Here's the parts and what they connect to from what I can tell.
3 2.2kOhm resistors "1 to adjust common 2"
1 1KOhm resistor "adjust common"
1 4.7KOhm resistor
2 10KOhm Pots "Contrast & Saturation"
1??Ohm Pot "Brightness"

Kinda hard to tell exactly from the pictures though

Edit:
I just realized she used a strip board and not bread board, so the connections are a bit more clear.

Edit again:
I think this is pretty accurate, but I'm not certain.