PS2 RGB...If you've done it please come here!

segasonicfan · Post by **segasonicfan** » Sun Dec 25, 2005 5:26 pm

o---I'm trying to avoid building a circuit that removes the tint. The easiest solution is the LMH1251 but it's only in a TSSOP package which is rediculously impossibly too small (to solder to). Other opamp circuits can be built but the only solution I see is using a component -> RGB converter. These are a real pain to make though and require a lot of time and component shopping and obscure resistor values. I'm hoping there's something simpler I'm just missing. As mentioned, I was hoping it was simply a problem with the sync on green in the Y/Sync output, but after using an LM1881 to remove the Sync from composite the problem was still there

XPC-Aside from me being obsessed with the perfectness of RGB, I'm not entirely sure my mod works. When I was testing it a couple months ago I still couldn't find differences when comparing it to composite input. However, both Y and C are separated and input, so it's possible that they are mixed inside. Maybe someone else has tried the mod and can tell me if it looks better than composite (it was hard for me to tell).
Additionally, S-Video/Composite is a last resort. I would build a Component->RGB converter before I do that. The difference in quality is just too huge. I'm really picky about my video quality ;P

-Segasonicfan

eastsider_1 · Post by **eastsider_1** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:47 am

SSF: about the green tint, i found the same problem. I used the +5v pin in onthe front of the board to tap the blue pin in [and maybe the red one] on the front of the PCB and my green tint vanished and the screen became noticably brighter. This causes a Flash of blue light, or whatever line you taped with the five volts, and sort of reset the tint "Timing". I suggest you give it a shot, and if it works you could apply a tact when the tint comes on- or atleast you think it is- press the button and, BOOM!!! No green tint. Try it, it usually goes a good 30-40 minutes like perfect.

segasonicfan · Post by **segasonicfan** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 3:39 am

wow thanks so much eastsider! I never thought to try that....sure the 5v input isn't ideal for the RGB lines, but if I'm just tapping it for a second it might not hurt....it also would prob be better if I disconnected the PS2 RGB line(s) and added +5v with a switch... damn this does mean I have to open up my system and screen again tho lol if only I knew sooner. Thanks though, that's a great idea and it should work!

-Segasonicfan

eastsider_1 · Post by **eastsider_1** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:35 pm

Yeah, thats basically what i mean. Just use a tact switch to send the 5v signal to the line specified for only less than a second. I think this should only be used on the blue line, but you cant hurt your screen by tapping the red line. It'll work, now all you have to worry about is WHERE to put your new switch on that frankenstien of a PS2!!! Speaking of which, mines almost done- just need a 7808C voltage reg., and I'll be able to turn it on!! Could you tell me about the power-source for your PS2??? thanks

You could probably use a lower voltage than 5v, more like 3v or something-nobody wants to fry there screen now.

segasonicfan · Post by **segasonicfan** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 11:52 pm

AH-HA!!! I found the PERFECT solution!!!

I tried the 5v thing, but it actually changes the tint to a slightly red (after tapping blue then red)...basically the extra voltage tints the color you last touched...

but an even BETTER way to do it is simply connect red+blue!! It counters the green tint and COMPLETELY removes it without any additional tinting. and since you're only combining the video lines for 1 sec it can't do any harm to the screen or system

Wow, so glad to FINALLY solve this @&%@%# problem!

As for the batt supply---I'm doing some overly-complex stuff to save battery life

Right now I'm working on a 12v to 8.5v DC-DC regulated converter. In addition, I'm powering the audio amp separately using a special 7805 that is in a TO-220 case but doesn't have the heatsink backing...that way there is NO ground interferrence

I'm also drawing 5v from the 7805 on the PS2 board to power the JRC/LM1881 chips on my PSOne screen (I removed the 7805 that was in there before). This separates all power between the audio amp and digital video chips resulting in perfect RGB and audio performance

I am very pleased with the results and once my DC-DC converter is finished my PS2 will be done!

-Segasonicfan

eastsider_1 · Post by **eastsider_1** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 12:21 am

This is great news. I'm glad to help out for all the trouble you've had. I was wondering how you would CONNECT them?? Solder a jumer wire or what?? What was your method of connecting r+b? thanks

segasonicfan · Post by **segasonicfan** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 12:34 am

Well I just literally touched the two wires together. I'll do your idea though- solder them to a tactile switch.

-Segasonicfan

eastsider_1 · Post by **eastsider_1** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 12:43 am

Just take the R and B lines with a wire on both lines and solder em to a tactile switch leading to +5v. Now when i get my screen, i can perform this simple mod. Afterwards, you think we could get this mod stickied in the Portabe Screen Hacking Forum???

R---------------------------> Tact Switch ____________+5v
B---------------------------->/

Heres what i mean.

segasonicfan · Post by **segasonicfan** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 2:18 am

hrmmm you don't have what I'm saying quite right. It's even better than that:

red----->tactile switch<-----blue

That's it, no +5v

I'd like to get this along with my audio amp fix and inductor fix in the psone sticky. I spent an unbelievable amount of time on those 2 fixes and they (along with this one) are crucial to getting good output with this screen.

-Segasonicfan

eastsider_1 · Post by **eastsider_1** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 3:28 am

oh ok. for some reason i thought the +5v went in there somewhere. Sound great. I read that audio amp fix, it sounds astronomically out of my reach-im fine with the sound on my screen tho. That is hard work nonetheless. Great thinking of the wires. It would be great if you stated that you recieved the idea of the r+b lines with switch [idea] from me, its nice to get credit for something. good luck

segasonicfan · Post by **segasonicfan** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 5:54 am

lol ill mention you no problem

Hell, I probably would have goen through building a full-out Component to RGB converter if you hadn't told me about that

and the amp mod really isn't THAT hard, just time consuming. You just have to drill/cut around the amp until it's grounded to nothing but itself.
You should be experiencing the same video (with sound) problems though...doesn't your sync go out of range when you raise your PS2 to full volume?

-Segasonicfan

Post by **Gamelver** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 12:43 pm

stickified

....

Krepticor · Post by **Krepticor** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 8:59 am

hey when you get all these modifications/corrections done could you post a schematic/wiring diagram on your website?

segasonicfan · Post by **segasonicfan** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 5:27 pm

ok i think i finally figured out an ultimate fix for this....

Just press all 3 switches (not at the same time) after the tint starts to appear. This will mix and thus reset the RGB input to remove the tint and provide a perfect image

From what I notice it seems to be 100% but I'd like some input from you guys when you try it

Thanks to eastsider for the original concept.

-Segasonicfan

G-force · Post by **G-force** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:12 am

How often would you have to do this? It seems like a bit of a pain to hit a button to remove the green tint every 5-10 minutes (or however long it takes)