I need help with the Cold Heat soldering tool!
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I just bought one of these from Think Geek, and I got it today. I put in freash, new batteries, and I read the directions like 10 times. I tried it on a piece of perfboard, and the red light comes on. I put some 20 AWG solder on it, and the white light turns off or dims. The red light dims as well. I remove the solder and the tool from the pad, and the red light and white light are on. I have to turn the device off to get the red light off. I havn't been able to figure out what I've been doing wrong. I'm so used to connvential soldering irons. I know there are users of this tool here, HELP!
- omegabullit
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I was looking at that. If it truly works, its an amazing peice of technology.
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- Sir Posts-alot
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Yeah when i saw a commerical last night they showed it working. I thought the only why you can get that kind of performac is if its sending a currect through the wire.
VB-master if you can tell us if the tip feels like its very brittal or fragile?
VB-master if you can tell us if the tip feels like its very brittal or fragile?
vskid wrote:Nerd = likes school, does all their homework, dies if they don't get 100% on every assignment
Geek = likes technology, dies if the power goes out and his UPS dies too
I am a geek.
I've tryed to use it on a project I had, by Graymark. It didn't work too well. Remember, always keep a conventional one near by. I tryed to solder in a resister, the cold heat wouldn't do it, but the conventional one did (surprise!). The tip is like graphite, if you press too hard - crack it's chipped. I had to revert to the conventional one to get it to work. You MUST have brand new batteries in it for it to work. I also tried the cold heat on a perfboard last night, and it worked well. The Graymark board was using not copper, but metal, which might have been the problem. The cold heat was not melting the solder well on the Graymark kit. Use it only on a copper clad board. As I said, the tip is very soft. Lots of repeating, there.