Cases thread
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- cennar
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Alrigty, I know ben sells his project 42 cases and maes his own cases (bouth CNC and resin cast) but lets look at what kind of cases we can make.
The options so far are:
CNC (only ben so far)
franken case (my fave but looks bad)
vacume formed (pritty week plastics are used)
resin cast (I dont know much about it to tell the truth)
project box (probly the ezyest, just cut and assemble)
Injection molding (out of our reach)
im sure there are other methods to wrap plastics around a console but thats not what I'm getting at. I think we sould look in to recearching more and more about cases. we sould use this thread to log what we find.
hopfully we can come to find better and more costefective ways to make cases (IE recycled matterials and cheaper plastics)
Alrigty, I know ben sells his project 42 cases and maes his own cases (bouth CNC and resin cast) but lets look at what kind of cases we can make.
The options so far are:
CNC (only ben so far)
franken case (my fave but looks bad)
vacume formed (pritty week plastics are used)
resin cast (I dont know much about it to tell the truth)
project box (probly the ezyest, just cut and assemble)
Injection molding (out of our reach)
im sure there are other methods to wrap plastics around a console but thats not what I'm getting at. I think we sould look in to recearching more and more about cases. we sould use this thread to log what we find.
hopfully we can come to find better and more costefective ways to make cases (IE recycled matterials and cheaper plastics)
- bicostp
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Don't forget about the old-fashioned "carve a case out of a chunck of wood" method.
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- Metallica Man X
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Here's an odd idea...Carve the shape of the case out of wood, then make a plaster cast of it, then pour in hot liquid plastic that was comprised of old (clean) milk jugs, seal it up, and let it set.
I dunno how strong the case would be tho...(gonna try it soon )
I dunno how strong the case would be tho...(gonna try it soon )
The answer to 1984 is 1776!
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I've had a crazy idea for a while... Make it out of fiberglass! They sell kits for cheap $, and it would make a really sturdy case. It might be easier than vaccum forming.
Then there's my old idea of taking channel aluminum and make a front and back plates, then screw the plates into the aluminum.
I made two cases this way adh it worked really well for the most part. But I made the mistake of using acrylic for the front and back plates. They cracked while I was making it, so I gave up on it.
Then there's my old idea of taking channel aluminum and make a front and back plates, then screw the plates into the aluminum.
I made two cases this way adh it worked really well for the most part. But I made the mistake of using acrylic for the front and back plates. They cracked while I was making it, so I gave up on it.
plaster is to poreus the plastic would be fused with it assumeing you could actually effectiveley melt down milk cartons I would not knowMetallica Man X wrote:Here's an odd idea...Carve the shape of the case out of wood, then make a plaster cast of it, then pour in hot liquid plastic that was comprised of old (clean) milk jugs, seal it up, and let it set.
I dunno how strong the case would be tho...(gonna try it soon )
Im done here
Ben said he tried to melt down 2600 cases, in the early days of his mold adventures, but I think he said it turned out bad. I doubt a flimsier plastic would do any better.
How much milk do you drink, or how many years do you plan on wasting, saving up enough cartons to make a 1/16" thick case? In the end, you would have enough cartons to build that case-house.
How much milk do you drink, or how many years do you plan on wasting, saving up enough cartons to make a 1/16" thick case? In the end, you would have enough cartons to build that case-house.
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- Metallica Man X
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It's too poreus hugh, dang...That what can be used for this operation then?plaster is to poreus the plastic would be fused with it assumeing you could actually effectiveley melt down milk cartons I would not know
And yeah, I can melt down the milk things, I've done if a few times before, and made some funny looking plastic things in the sand next to the fire pit.
I don't have to save much up, all I need to do is a make a trip to my good friend the junk yard to get all the stuff I need. (it's truly amazing what peeps throw out!)How much milk do you drink, or how many years do you plan on wasting, saving up enough cartons to make a 1/16" thick case? In the end, you would have enough cartons to build that case-house.
The answer to 1984 is 1776!
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- cennar
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you could take recylced jugs and bottles shread them up thin and then boi them on low temp with some resen. it would stick to its self and still be viscous enough to workpeppers wrote:plaster is to poreus the plastic would be fused with it assumeing you could actually effectiveley melt down milk cartons I would not knowMetallica Man X wrote:Here's an odd idea...Carve the shape of the case out of wood, then make a plaster cast of it, then pour in hot liquid plastic that was comprised of old (clean) milk jugs, seal it up, and let it set.
I dunno how strong the case would be tho...(gonna try it soon )
EDIT: ive also got some ideas about making woden molds and lining the insides to reuse over and over.. the problem is with out making the molds of steal the case would need a lot of sanding and would still be vary primitive.
Although I am not entirely sure this would work, I would like to offer this suggestion. This is a lengthy possible process, but could result in high quality molds if done correctly, or I could be totally off-base. Each of the below instructions will require curing time, please follow the directions on the products over anything I say. If any part of this is wrong or wont work, please correct me.
Make a wooden replica of the case you want to create plus an additional inch in depth (will make sense later), do not make it hollow. Make indentions into the wood "around" where you would have openings for screen and controls. Cut the wood replica in half (leaving an extra half inch on each side). Add a screw to the "center" of each side of the extra half inch of wood, these will become your depth guides.
Make a mold form shell for each half that is roughly a quarter to half an inch larger internally than the wood replica. My personal suggestion for these two parts would be a plaster piece cured between two round edge rectangular tuperware containers of different sizes, leave the outside one for extra strength. Once you have both of your mold form shells, put half an inch or more of mold compound (silicone plastique - http://www.culinart.net/silicone.html) into the mold form shell and put in your replica by lining up evenly on all four sides, letting your depth guides rest on the outer edge of the mold form shell (and mark where the screws rest at for future alignment). Allow to cure while you shave 1/16th inch or slightly more from your wood replica and drill screw guides where you want your screws to attach to (the internal part you want the screws to attach the two halves). Do not cut any extra at the areas you want to cut out for screen and controls. Put three coats of clear coat (fully dried between) on the wood replica. At this point you should be ready to use Ben's "Squish" method with resin.
Make a wooden replica of the case you want to create plus an additional inch in depth (will make sense later), do not make it hollow. Make indentions into the wood "around" where you would have openings for screen and controls. Cut the wood replica in half (leaving an extra half inch on each side). Add a screw to the "center" of each side of the extra half inch of wood, these will become your depth guides.
Make a mold form shell for each half that is roughly a quarter to half an inch larger internally than the wood replica. My personal suggestion for these two parts would be a plaster piece cured between two round edge rectangular tuperware containers of different sizes, leave the outside one for extra strength. Once you have both of your mold form shells, put half an inch or more of mold compound (silicone plastique - http://www.culinart.net/silicone.html) into the mold form shell and put in your replica by lining up evenly on all four sides, letting your depth guides rest on the outer edge of the mold form shell (and mark where the screws rest at for future alignment). Allow to cure while you shave 1/16th inch or slightly more from your wood replica and drill screw guides where you want your screws to attach to (the internal part you want the screws to attach the two halves). Do not cut any extra at the areas you want to cut out for screen and controls. Put three coats of clear coat (fully dried between) on the wood replica. At this point you should be ready to use Ben's "Squish" method with resin.
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