I'm sure the audio amp is still useful though. Albeit a bit bulky, but there lies my question. Which components on the board can I cut off or bypass? Those large resistors perhaps could be pulled off? Anything else?
intec gamecube screen audio amp separation?
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gamemasterful
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So I was going to use that crappy gamecube intec screen for a REALLY cheapy portable, but I've ruined the screen.
I'm sure the audio amp is still useful though. Albeit a bit bulky, but there lies my question. Which components on the board can I cut off or bypass? Those large resistors perhaps could be pulled off? Anything else?
I'm sure the audio amp is still useful though. Albeit a bit bulky, but there lies my question. Which components on the board can I cut off or bypass? Those large resistors perhaps could be pulled off? Anything else?
-
gamemasterful
- Posts:78
- Joined:Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:39 am
Re: intec gamecube screen audio amp separation?
Nevermind! With about an hour or so of trying to map circuits I finally said "eff this" and just cut the board all the way through.
The part you will want to keep has the headphone jack (the larger one), the 7805, speakers, volume + contrast dials, power input, and screen input/output.
On the underside you will find the dual 386s
Pull off the cable strip attached to the screen, it's just useless. Even brand new right?
Also completely remove that odd red wire that somehow intec couldn't easily pair with the rest of the group of wires from the volume/contrast board to the tv.
Use a dremel or score with an exacto to saw the board off where the hole in the center starts (where the volume and contrast knob go).
Make sure to keep the circuit intact for the two capacitors that are opposite of the rest of the components. (between the screen connector and the hole) (While I'm not 100% sure if they are needed, my circuit as of now is working fine WITH them.)
Now that you've sawed through the board, time to play clean up. Completely remove the screen connector and desolder the wires. If you want to slim the board down a tiny bit, go ahead and do this with the rest of the connectors.
If you didn't trace the input aux connections, they actually created CONVENIENT solder connections for them right next to the volume control input! While I'm not sure which was supposed to be which, the inputs are connections 2 and 3, counting from the side you just cut. If you wanted to though I suppose you could wire your inputs directly to the volume control knob board.
Cut off wire 1, counting from the just cut side. This wire controls contrast, so we don't need it!
Power input is on the board, and should be explanatory.
Desolder the power button, and using the dremel, cut off the contrast dial (if you forgot, the contrast dial has less connections) by halving the board where the power button was.
Desolder the wire on the board closest to the cut off contrast half and connect it to the center wire connection.
You now have a dual lm386 circuit with volume control knob that switches output when headphones are put in! Congratulations! Considering I bought the crap at goodwill for $4, it wasn't a total loss at all.
Still dunno how I messed up the screen though. :/
The part you will want to keep has the headphone jack (the larger one), the 7805, speakers, volume + contrast dials, power input, and screen input/output.
On the underside you will find the dual 386s
Pull off the cable strip attached to the screen, it's just useless. Even brand new right?
Also completely remove that odd red wire that somehow intec couldn't easily pair with the rest of the group of wires from the volume/contrast board to the tv.
Use a dremel or score with an exacto to saw the board off where the hole in the center starts (where the volume and contrast knob go).
Make sure to keep the circuit intact for the two capacitors that are opposite of the rest of the components. (between the screen connector and the hole) (While I'm not 100% sure if they are needed, my circuit as of now is working fine WITH them.)
Now that you've sawed through the board, time to play clean up. Completely remove the screen connector and desolder the wires. If you want to slim the board down a tiny bit, go ahead and do this with the rest of the connectors.
If you didn't trace the input aux connections, they actually created CONVENIENT solder connections for them right next to the volume control input! While I'm not sure which was supposed to be which, the inputs are connections 2 and 3, counting from the side you just cut. If you wanted to though I suppose you could wire your inputs directly to the volume control knob board.
Cut off wire 1, counting from the just cut side. This wire controls contrast, so we don't need it!
Power input is on the board, and should be explanatory.
Desolder the power button, and using the dremel, cut off the contrast dial (if you forgot, the contrast dial has less connections) by halving the board where the power button was.
Desolder the wire on the board closest to the cut off contrast half and connect it to the center wire connection.
You now have a dual lm386 circuit with volume control knob that switches output when headphones are put in! Congratulations! Considering I bought the crap at goodwill for $4, it wasn't a total loss at all.
Still dunno how I messed up the screen though. :/