Gamecube video mods+GC info

Includes PS2, Xbox 1, GameCube (but not the Phantom Game Console)

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footinmouth
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Re: Gamecube video mods+GC info

Post by footinmouth » Tue Dec 09, 2008 10:36 am

Gamelver wrote:As is turns out, the Gamecube can in fact output an RGB signal, perfect for our favorite portablizing screen :D (the psone screen)!!!! Also, you can get VGA from the GC if you want :).

First of all, you're gonna need a component cable for the GC. Here's a place where you can get one :).

Once you've got your component cable, then open it up and start modding!!!!...according to these guides, of course ;)...
SNES/N64/GC pinout (please note that the RGB doesn't work on the GC, either)
S/PDIF mod
RGB/VGA mod
more on RGB mod (fourth post down)
how to get c-sync out of composite
usbcd36 wrote:Here is a connection diagram:

Image

Connect wires along all the black lines, do not connect any intersections. Connect wires along the white lines as well, and tie all grounds together somewhere.
thanks usbcd36 for originally posting these :)!!

oh yeah, and when I have time, I'll probably add some video mods for the PS2/XBOX, too :)...right now, I've got more homework :roll:...

also, I'll add all I know about the GC ;)....

Edit: I'm gonna put up the thread with all my "useful" GCp posts...enjoy :)!

GCp info
GC mA measurements!
NOTE: the gamecube does NOT require 12v on the 12v line, according to shockslayer it will work with as little as 5v!
what is the ma draw from the gamecube? the link is dead
i hate how electronic part suppliers give you an option on their website to filter your searches so that you can find a certain part and no results come up!

footinmouth
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Post by footinmouth » Tue Dec 09, 2008 11:00 am

ShockSlayer wrote:
footinmouth wrote:Is it possible to do on the second revision gamecube models? cuz i still want to use this one even if I can't do an rgb mod on it, the reason is because this one has a built in power regulator on the motherboard
Just use a 12v battery and a composite screen and you will be fine!

Also; something else to note:

Ok, I have confired that all platinum gamecubes without the Digital av port lack a powerboard. I checked all of them at my local gamestop, and it is even possible to see if its not open! Just look in the back vents and there will be nothing where the powerboard should be. All the platinums with the digital av out have the powerboard.

SS
im going to do some experienting to see if the 5 volt mod is possible on rev 2 gc's
i hate how electronic part suppliers give you an option on their website to filter your searches so that you can find a certain part and no results come up!

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Kyo
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Post by Kyo » Tue Dec 09, 2008 12:19 pm

make sure to remove the 12V input then, because otherwise you'd be upping the 5V line and not vice versa

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ShockSlayer
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Post by ShockSlayer » Tue Dec 09, 2008 7:59 pm

Kyo wrote:make sure to remove the 12V input then, because otherwise you'd be upping the 5V line and not vice versa
I concur. If I'm not mistaken, the DD would fry if that happened.

SS
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Post by Kyo » Thu Dec 11, 2008 12:57 pm

All right here's a pinout of the power regulator voltages:

first of all here's how the power regulator board looks:

Image
all you really have to worry about are pins 12-22. pin 13 is 3.4v, pins 16-18 are 1.9v, pin 21 is 12v, and pin 22 is 5v. also you have to make sure you have ground.
here's the pins on the GC ( that box with the lines is the heatsink....I suck at paint):

Image
pins 2 and 13 need 3.4v, pins 6,7,16,17,18,19 need 1.9v, pin 10 needs 12v, and pins 11 and 22 need 5v. just make sure that the pins that I've grouped together, like 6, 7, 16, 17, 18, 19 are connected together. they should be, though.

and that's how you only need 5 wires to attach the gc power regulator board to the GC board!!!!!!!!!!!!! that "bit of bad news" was that a gc regulator had fried and so I ordered another one....

* oh yeah if you turn on your GC and you don't get any sound, try getting the 12v not from the pin on the GC power regulator, but directly from the actual GC ac adapter. I also tried that from the 14.8v li-poly battery pack and it worked fine.
This is a bit contradicting. From what I understand, the diagrams would have to be like this:

Image
Image


However, that is contradicting. I'm trying to write an article about the 12V/5V thing on my site (Well, copying SS's article and adding some pictures, to be precise). I decided to take actual pictures, because a picture says more than thousand diagrams (:P).

Could somebody tell me which one is right, and how I would have to correct it?

thanks

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Post by Kyo » Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:19 am

It's been 5 days. Somebody who made a GCp should have an answer to this

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ShockSlayer
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Post by ShockSlayer » Sun Dec 21, 2008 7:59 pm

Umm, okay. I'll field this one.

From my truth: both diagrams are wrong.

Kyo, all yours does is switch the rows on both sides of gamelver's(or whoever's), and thus changes absolutely nothing.

Flip a coin and pick the power board or the game cube and switch only one of the rows.

SS
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Post by DaStan » Mon Dec 22, 2008 1:06 am

Good day... er night.
I made a diagram using the mother board's pin numbering, and felt I should share it for anyone who doesn't feel like drawing out.
Image

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Kyo
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Post by Kyo » Mon Dec 22, 2008 3:34 am

ShockSlayer wrote:Umm, okay. I'll field this one.

From my truth: both diagrams are wrong.

Kyo, all yours does is switch the rows on both sides of gamelver's(or whoever's), and thus changes absolutely nothing.

Flip a coin and pick the power board or the game cube and switch only one of the rows.

SS
Actually, one is the top the other one is the bottom, so they should have the same numbering, as in reality, the power board is under the other one, which means that they should have the same numbering at the top and bottom, but they don't. That's my problem.

DaStan, thanks. So which one of these used to be 12V? 19, right?

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ShockSlayer
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Post by ShockSlayer » Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:16 am

Well, it doesn't really matter which row is which. The top row of pins is the exact same as the bottom.

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Post by Kyo » Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:56 am

oh. I didn't know that.

well anyway:

http://wocares.com/modding/article.php?id=16

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Post by DaStan » Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:22 pm

yeah, pin 19 was connected to 12v.

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ShockSlayer
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Post by ShockSlayer » Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:35 pm

Here is a diagram made by Mario(the benheck user, named after the plumber :lol:) that shows you how to make a low battery LED indicator. You need a zener diode with a voltage rating equal to the voltage your battery drops to a little bit before it dies, a 2.7v LED or similar voltage, a common 2n3904 transistor, and a 1k resistor.

Image

You might need to adjust your zener diodes with a resistor, to get the led to come on before it dies.

Disscusion thread is here.

Tutorial thread is here.

Does a mod want to split the posts out of that topic?

SS
Last edited by ShockSlayer on Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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palmertech
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Post by palmertech » Sat Jan 10, 2009 12:13 am

That is awesome. I cannot believe it is that simple.

It does not draw current when not in use?
Image

Excellent

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Kyo
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Post by Kyo » Sat Jan 10, 2009 3:09 am

Some yes, it connects the poles of the battery with a resistor, but it's probably insignificant.

Anyway, I think this would be better suited for technical information, as this is generally helpful.

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