(ZCP) A few questions for my Portable GC set 3

[Gamerlolwind51649]

also, on the disk drive, you've seen my trimming of it in my worklog?
: http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab17 ... 010737.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Nope hadn't seen that yet

um, before i trimmed it it had three soft shock sponge things to prevent force feedback, i think.
i removed these, so in my portable when i tape the dd on the back of my case with Electrical tape (PVC)
there is no shock feedback vibration?

There isn't too much dampening we can do, we just have to be careful when the cube is running

also, about wring player 2 socket, what cables do i use the same for the internal controller, or solder wires?
oh and the controller small black connector thing, do i need it or can i remove it?

I forgot where but someone had the pinouts from the motherboard to the controller. The black connector would still be needed (although you could just cut out one of the ports if you just want player 2...)

the top pins of the power panel on the gc mobo, i left them on when i removed the bottom black connector, um do i get rid of these or keep them and solder on the wires to them?

If you mean the pins in the same corner as the a/v connector (opposite of the disc drive connector) then I personally would remove the connector and solder directly to the pads.

and when kasar said about "bridging" these points and then wiring them up to said point, how do you do it, add solder or wire them together?

Bridging can be done either by connecting the points with solder or soldering an end of a piece of wire wire to each point

for the controls, and case, i got a plexiglass of 3mm, i was going to use it for the disk case, but um,
is it better if i use perspex (2mm for the controls) and (2 x 3mm) for the front/back of the case

or i can use plexiglass for the front/back case,

it plexiglass harder to cut and make smooth than perspex?
because bacteria used perspex for his intro64 front/back case and he said it works great but hard on tools,
it's plastic, not glass like plexiglass is

which is better? for front/back of the case?

Sorry case construction is not at all my strong point. I have no idea how any of the above would hold up

um, now that i've opened my psone screen, i tested it out in my case, it fits, no need to trim, my gc mobo fits, dd drive fits, controls fit.
um, for the psone screen, do i need the anti-glare step or keep the screen as it is?

http://kyorune.com/modding/article.php?id=21" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

what are the Advantages/Disadvantages to Anti-glare removal
and the no anti-glare removal?

That is not necessary. You can do that if you want a slightly sharper image or if you dinged up the surface of the screen a bit during the build.

um, to cut the plexiglass/perspex what do i need to use to cut a perfect circle for the disk cover lid etc?

I'd trace a circle with something, then use a simple coping saw or band saw or some other cutting implement that's able to turn when sawing and saw slightly bigger than the circle and sand it to size.

yeah, thanx for the info.
um, for the player two thing, you mean this:
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/8598/c ... uactr2.png" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

um, for player one im buliding internal controller, but for p2, im going to use the p2 switch.
so for player two i wire the switch to the black panel with solder wire?
for my internal controller p1 i also wire the wires to the black panel:

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6130/c ... uactr1.png" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

so do i need a switch between the two? im going to use p2 for gba connctivty, player 2 etc

so when i wire my internal controller to the black panel, for p2, i only wire the wire to pin 2?

also, what's this mean? :

"Internal controller player number selection mod (optional)


if you decide to make a internal controller, you can also build a switch.


this switch can disable or toggle different controller numbers like P1,P2,P3 or P4 for your internal controller

all you need to do is wire a controller to the mobo using my diagram, then, you will need to "cut" the "bidirectional data line" wire, then, put some wires from the mobo's P1 ,P2 ,P3 and P4's bidirectional data line to a switch.

it should looks like this pic.

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/7978/b ... switch.png" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


(this switch does not have any internal bridges, except the brown moving thing wich bridge just 2 pins (upper and lower))

the resulting functions will be:

if moving the switch to the full left is position 1, and moving the switch to full right is position 5 it will be:

position 1 - internal controller disabled

position 2 - internal controller in player 1 mode

position 3 - internal controller in player 2 mode

position 4 - internal controller in player 3 mode

position 5 - internal controller in player 4 mode


if you want the pin numbers for the controller bidirectional data line, here you go:

pin 10 of mobo is for Player 1
pin 7 of mobo is for Player 2
pin 4 of mobo is for Player 3
pin 3 of mobo is for Player 4

(those pins correspond to the pins used to connect the controllers, battery, led, and reset switch poste at some previus images at the step 5 of this guide)


I didnt tested this mod by myself yet, but I think it should work without problems"

i found a way to cut a ciclre with the dremel, using the cut wheel,
draw a circle mark and place the dremel at a 45 angle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iMiH8wYTDY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

so, bringing these points with a blob of solder or solder wire for each?

step 3 - reallocating regulator board

this step will let you join back the regulator board to the Gc by wires and allowing a very slim design for a portable, how long the wires will be depends of the place you will want to allocate the parts into the portable case. there are different ways to do this . (Note, if your gamecube don´t have a regulator board under the Motherboard,It means it is integrated, and seems you can skip this step)

DEFAULT WAY : wire all pins

Custom way: This options give the gamecube power on only by 5 wires!
less soldering, more free espace inside

pin 22 of the regulator board have 5v, and pins 22 and 11 from the motherboard need it, just "bridge" (join with soldering iron) the pins 22 and 11 from the motherboard and connect them to the pin 22 of the regulator board using a wire.

the pin 21 of the regulator board gives 12v and the pin 10 of the motherboard needs 12v, just connect it using a wire

the pin 12 of the regulator board give "ground" and pin 1 of the motherboard needs ground, just connect then (use a fat wire at this step cause lot of power need pass through, other member and me noticed video problems if not doing this)

bridge pins 16,17 and 18 at regulator board, and wire them to pins 6,7,16,17,18,19 of the motherboard wich need o be bridged to the system get 3,4v

bridge pins 2 and 13 from the MOBO and wire them to pin 13 of the regulator board to the system get 5v

thats all ^^


well, here is the diagram info:

http://wocares.com/host/images/423324_p ... pinout.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://wocares.com/host/images/112249_p ... pinout.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/2593 ... obobx7.png" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

so the 12v line i wire to my battery? not the dc jack connector which i can remove?

um, a very small particle on my gc mobo is destroyed, do i put a blob of solder on it to stop t from interfering and causing me any problems?
what do i do?

[killersquirel11]

yeah, thanx for the info.
um, for the player two thing, you mean this:

yeah that's the one

um, for player one im buliding internal controller, but for p2, im going to use the p2 switch.
so for player two i wire the switch to the black panel with solder wire?
for my internal controller p1 i also wire the wires to the black panel:



so do i need a switch between the two? im going to use p2 for gba connctivty, player 2 etc

so when i wire my internal controller to the black panel, for p2, i only wire the wire to pin 2?

Assuming you want the built-in controller to be able to be switched between controlling p1 and p2, you would connect the bidirectional data line (the red one in the above 2 pictures) from the connector on the motherboard to the two poles on a switch and the bidirectional data line from the controller board to the throw. So, using an image you posted before since I'm feeling lazy,

but replace 'System' with pin 7, 'Charger' with pin 10, and 'Battery' with pin 2 from your controller

also, what's this mean? :

"Internal controller player number selection mod (optional)


if you decide to make a internal controller, you can also build a switch.


this switch can disable or toggle different controller numbers like P1,P2,P3 or P4 for your internal controller

all you need to do is wire a controller to the mobo using my diagram, then, you will need to "cut" the "bidirectional data line" wire, then, put some wires from the mobo's P1 ,P2 ,P3 and P4's bidirectional data line to a switch.

it should looks like this pic.

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/7978/b ... switch.png" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


(this switch does not have any internal bridges, except the brown moving thing wich bridge just 2 pins (upper and lower))

the resulting functions will be:

if moving the switch to the full left is position 1, and moving the switch to full right is position 5 it will be:

position 1 - internal controller disabled

position 2 - internal controller in player 1 mode

position 3 - internal controller in player 2 mode

position 4 - internal controller in player 3 mode

position 5 - internal controller in player 4 mode


if you want the pin numbers for the controller bidirectional data line, here you go:

pin 10 of mobo is for Player 1
pin 7 of mobo is for Player 2
pin 4 of mobo is for Player 3
pin 3 of mobo is for Player 4

(those pins correspond to the pins used to connect the controllers, battery, led, and reset switch poste at some previus images at the step 5 of this guide)


I didnt tested this mod by myself yet, but I think it should work without problems"

That is if you want to be able to select player 1,2,3, or 4

so, bringing these points with a blob of solder or solder wire for each?

Not sure what you're trying to say here...

step 3 - reallocating regulator board

this step will let you join back the regulator board to the Gc by wires and allowing a very slim design for a portable, how long the wires will be depends of the place you will want to allocate the parts into the portable case. there are different ways to do this . (Note, if your gamecube don´t have a regulator board under the Motherboard,It means it is integrated, and seems you can skip this step)

DEFAULT WAY : wire all pins

Custom way: This options give the gamecube power on only by 5 wires!
less soldering, more free espace inside

pin 22 of the regulator board have 5v, and pins 22 and 11 from the motherboard need it, just "bridge" (join with soldering iron) the pins 22 and 11 from the motherboard and connect them to the pin 22 of the regulator board using a wire.

the pin 21 of the regulator board gives 12v and the pin 10 of the motherboard needs 12v, just connect it using a wire

the pin 12 of the regulator board give "ground" and pin 1 of the motherboard needs ground, just connect then (use a fat wire at this step cause lot of power need pass through, other member and me noticed video problems if not doing this)

bridge pins 16,17 and 18 at regulator board, and wire them to pins 6,7,16,17,18,19 of the motherboard wich need o be bridged to the system get 3,4v

bridge pins 2 and 13 from the MOBO and wire them to pin 13 of the regulator board to the system get 5v

thats all ^^


well, here is the diagram info:

http://wocares.com/host/images/423324_p ... pinout.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://wocares.com/host/images/112249_p ... pinout.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/2593 ... obobx7.png" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

so the 12v line i wire to my battery? not the dc jack connector which i can remove?

Connect the connector on the bottom right to your power/charge switch. Red is 12V, Black is GND. Don't connect input power directly to any of the pins on the 22-pin connector (besides ground. Ground is the same everywhere so it won't cause an issue):

um, a very small particle on my gc mobo is destroyed, do i put a blob of solder on it to stop t from interfering and causing me any problems?
what do i do?

Let's see a picture and go from there

[Gamerlolwind51649]

okay, understood. thanx
also i asked Kasar about this and he filled me in on this, so now i clearly understand how it works.

so, um when you mean connect the Red/black wires from my power board connector to my power/charge switch, you mean the the psone small yellow charge box or the DC 12v small board thing?

but the power board 12v line goes to my battery power. Red = + Black = -

the connector of the dc 12v line for the power to the power board, do i need it?



and if i need to use a switch between my battery power and my dc jack i add a switch and solder one end of it to the dc 12v line?

and do i need this cabe and do the red/black wires for the power board which are connected to my battery have to be this thickness?



and sorry about that last question, should have provided a pic before asking this question.
here's what i meant:



this small tiny particle in red.
do i cover it in solder so it won't cause me any problems?

[killersquirel11]

okay, understood. thanx
also i asked Kasar about this and he filled me in on this, so now i clearly understand how it works.

so, um when you mean connect the Red/black wires from my power board connector to my power/charge switch, you mean the the psone small yellow charge box or the DC 12v small board thing?

but the power board 12v line goes to my battery power. Red = + Black = -

the connector of the dc 12v line for the power to the power board, do i need it?



and if i need to use a switch between my battery power and my dc jack i add a switch and solder one end of it to the dc 12v line?

and do i need this cabe and do the red/black wires for the power board which are connected to my battery have to be this thickness?

I was referring to the image that i reposted from you:

Connect [System] to the regulator board, [Battery] to the battery, and [Charger] to the charger circuitry
You should try to go with a wire of around the same thickness. With a wire carrying as much current as that one is, a skinny enough wire will act as like a fuse and stop conducting.

and sorry about that last question, should have provided a pic before asking this question.
here's what i meant:



this small tiny particle in red.
do i cover it in solder so it won't cause me any problems?

DO NOT cover that in solder. That is (was) a capacitor. Your best bet is to remove it from the board (really easy with 2 soldering irons, moving one soldering from one end of the chip to the other will also work if you're quick enough). Finding a replacement would be difficult, since they tend not to label surface mount caps of that size. If you covered it with solder, really bad things would happen the next time you turned the beast on. Something would probably explode. That capacitor is probably being used as a bypass capacitor to help smooth the input voltages, and as such shouldn't be 100% necessary. If it is a bypass connector, then it connects between whatever voltage line that is and ground, so shorting those together would probably kill the power supply, and maybe even part of the motherboard...

Before attempting to turn the board on, check continuity between ground, 1.9V, 3.3V, 5V, and 12V. If any of those conduct for more than a split-second, you've got a problem.

[Gamerlolwind51649]

okay, so i connect the

[System] = regulator board (the power board? or the adjustable regulator?)
[Battery] = my battery (the wires that go into the gc?)
[Charger] - charger circuitry (Psone yellow charger female jack)

the wires for all these are red and black?

i have thick black wire, i need a thick red one too?

um, a 2 way switch diagram? im really confused on how it work?

yeah, thick wire is a must, more than thinner, i never as going to use thin wire for this part.

do the five power board wires (1.9v, 5v, 12v and 3.3v) have to be all thick wires or only the one wire (ground)?

oh, yeah i'll remove it, desolder the broken capacitor, and it's not 100% needed. that's good news
um, the NTSC motherboard i've ordered for the replacement of the slot A memcard port. i just solder the points from the memcard pot to my board points?

because the DD points are not a straight line, but in Zig-Zag form.

oh, the ntsc board will have this capacitor on it, should i desolder it and solder it onto mine? if need be

so when you mean not conducting these points (1.9v, 5v, 3.3v, 12v)
like making sure the volts for each of them are kept at a constant level that doesn't alter
and don't touch each other.

so not having this capacitor won't cause me any problems and if im careful it won't be a problem without it?

[killersquirel11]

okay, so i connect the

[System] = regulator board (the power board? or the adjustable regulator?)
[Battery] = my battery (the wires that go into the gc?)
[Charger] - charger circuitry (Psone yellow charger female jack)

the wires for all these are red and black?

[System] = the power board that sat beneath the GC motherboard, and the adjustable regulator
[Battery] = Your battery
[Charger] = whatever circuitry you are using to charge the battery.
When wiring anything, it is recommended to keep the wires that carry the same voltages as the same colors. Since the system, battery, and charger are at the battery voltage level of ~14V, use Red and Black. When you wire other parts (i.e. power board relocation), it is recommended use different colors of wire to avoid confusion.

i have thick black wire, i need a thick red one too?

Those two wires are carrying the same amount of current, so yes.

um, a 2 way switch diagram? im really confused on how it work?

Basically the switch has two possible positions that it can be in. One of the positions connects the left pin to the middle one, the other connects the right pin to the middle one. So what your switch does is select between connecting the system to the battery or connecting the battery to the charger

do the five power board wires (1.9v, 5v, 12v and 3.3v) have to be all thick wires or only the one wire (ground)?

They all have to be thick. Not necessarily as thick as the 14.5V. According to Zenloc:

1,9v (GPU) - 3.4 Amps
1.9v (CPU) - 3.1 Amps
3,3v - 0.8 Amps
5.0v - 0.3 Amps (note that the 5v line is ONLY used for the disc drive motor,5v memorycard line and 5v rumble line for controllers nothing else!!!)
12.0v - 0.05 Amps (without fan, sound only!)

So according to this table, you should have the following (If you don't get these exact sizes, go lower than the numbers posted here, not higher. So you could use 22AWG for 3.3, 5, and 12 no problemo):
1.9V: 14AWG
3.3V: 22AWG
5V: 26AWG
12V: 34AWG
14.5V (Battery/power in/charger): Not sure what the power draw is on this, but I personally wouldn't go higher than 18AWG
Although you can use two wires in parallel to halve the current going through each (if you do that subtract 3 from the awg rating of the wire you used to get the effective awg)

um, the NTSC motherboard i've ordered for the replacement of the slot A memcard port. i just solder the points from the memcard pot to my board points?

because the DD points are not a straight line, but in Zig-Zag form.

oh, the ntsc board will have this capacitor on it, should i desolder it and solder it onto mine? if need be

so when you mean not conducting these points (1.9v, 5v, 3.3v, 12v)
like making sure the volts for each of them are kept at a constant level that doesn't alter
and don't touch each other.

so not having this capacitor won't cause me any problems and if im careful it won't be a problem without it?

To check conductivity, grab a multimeter. Do this when the gamecube isn't connected to power.
If it is analog (has a needle), there will be an [ohms] setting. Set it to this. Touch the probes together. The pin should go all the way to the right. This means that two points are connected. Check to make sure that GND, 1.9V, 5V, 3.3V, and 12V aren't connected.
If it is a digital multimeter, it will have some sort of speaker symbol. Select this mode and it should beep when you touch the probes together. Make sure it doesn't beep when you touch one probe to any of the above listed points and the other to another of those points.

To relocate the memory card, you can again use the multimeter to check which pins in the connector go where on the motherboard. Check for conductivity between the pins in the connector and the pins where the connector attaches to the motherboard. Then, you just need to remove the connector and solder those pins on the motherboard to the pins on the memory card

[killersquirel11]

Also, from what I've read so far it appears to me (no offense) that you don't really understand the basics of electronics. I suggest that you read through and understand the following pages:
http://www.makingthings.com/teleo/produ ... onics.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://ccrma.stanford.edu/wiki/Introdu ... lectronics" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://forums.hackaday.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=637" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Some of this is going to be a bit beyond what you can do, but it is still very useful information.
http://ocw.mit.edu/courses/electrical-e ... ring-2006/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Actually if you want a lot of free college-level class stuff, MIT's open courseware has a lot of materials: http://ocw.mit.edu/index.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

A few more pages:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Applications_of_capacitors" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
and
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
where the switch that you will need is probably classified as a SPDT

Hope this helps

The way I feel about projects like this is that you should fully understand what you are doing. To me, it seems like you are trying your best to do what you've found online, but you don't really get what you are doing. While there is certainly nothing wrong with this, it makes everyone's job easier (your, mine, anyone who happens to read these posts) if you can learn enough about electronics to figure out what does what, and when something inevitably breaks, what went wrong and how to fix it