PS2p progress thread

Valium · Post by **Valium** » Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:48 pm

Today, I finally received a working screen, it's not perfect, has a dead pixel, but I really couldn't care less right now. And this means I can finally begin working on the PS2p. I opened it up this morning, and prepped it for LED modding, just waiting on the parts.

I also grabbed my currently broken PS2 slim, and took a good look at the board, I can, and will be using a ZN-40 case from polycase to house it.

The laser is broken, but that shouldn't be a problem. I'll tweak it sooner or later.

At the moment, the board is almost the exact same measurements as the ZN-40, this isn't good, as it needs breathing room, but again, after looking at the board, I realized that there is almost nothing on the sides of the PCB. I'll desolder all of the ports, solder connections to em, yada yada, and then grind the sides down. I should be able to get it to be 5'' x 8 7/8'', which is within the good range.

The disk will be placed inside of the case, with the drive being moved to the middle (or so) of the board, which requires me to extend all of the connections except for largest ribbon cable, thank god. It should be flush with the bottom of the case, about 3/4''. I'll provide pictures when I get started.

Since the Ps2 slim runs off 8.5v, I've been thinking of the best way to power it. My best thought so far, would be to use an 8.4v RC car battery, but split it open and move the Sub C cells around the case to save space. But a question I have is, will my Zenith screen play nicely with 8.4v without the daughter board? What exactly do the PSone/Zenith screens run on, without the transformer for the backlight, what else needs that 7.4v?

Ben's tutorial for his PS2p notes that altogether it used about 1.9 amps in an hour, and I'm planning on getting a 4500 mAh NiMh battery, so that should be good for almost 2 and a half hours of play time. I don't have any games that I'd want to play for longer than that.

I just need a few things to arrive, and then I will begin. Also, I might sell this, depending on how good it looks and how well it works.

Turknatr12 · Post by **Turknatr12** » Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:44 pm

Very Cool Man!

I don't want to sound bad, but my next project Is sorta similar,but I am still planning. Maybe we could get on MSN some time and discuss Ideas.

Valium · Post by **Valium** » Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:54 pm

Yeah sure, I don't mind. It should be in my profile.

Valium · Post by **Valium** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 8:14 pm

No new updates as of yet, everything I need to really get started is taking way too long to get here...

Does anyone know the answer to the question though?

tom61 · Post by **tom61** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 2:10 am

You should be able to run your screen off 8.4Volts. I've run my Sony PSOne screen off a 9.0Volt Li-Ion pack before, no mods to it.

IIRC, the only thing not driven from 7805s is the video chip that takes analog and gives the right digital RGB to run the screen (decoder/encoder/transcoder?)

jeroen · Post by **jeroen** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 5:40 am

I'm not sure but doesn't a psone screen like....fry if you get above more then 8v?

Valium · Post by **Valium** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:30 am

Just to be on the safe side, I'll stick to what Jeroen said. Mine will have mods done to it anyway, I don't plan on keeping the daughter board or the transformer for the backlight. Everything is going to be as small as physically possible.

I'll need a step down converter, but a small one, any recommendations?

phantom92opera · Post by **phantom92opera** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:40 am

im getting li poly batteries rated for 7.4 volts once in a pack.. the charger im getting charges them and stops at 8.4v which i was told (but not reassured) shouldnt fry the screen. Dont hold me to this as i dont know!

Valium · Post by **Valium** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:10 pm

phantom92opera wrote:im getting li poly batteries rated for 7.4 volts once in a pack.. the charger im getting charges them and stops at 8.4v which i was told (but not reassured) shouldnt fry the screen. Dont hold me to this as i dont know!

Well, let me know when you find out, alright?

Valium · Post by **Valium** » Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:02 am

Picture time!

Early this morning, my Zn-40 came, and since then I've been working on getting the Ps2 board to fit. And guess what?

It fits! I still have to solder everything back on, but that won't add any width on it. Not planning on having the usb ports or the dial-up plug, whatever it's called.

techknott · Post by **techknott** » Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:16 am

Looking good.

Ben Cebhrem · Post by **Ben Cebhrem** » Wed Jul 16, 2008 10:13 pm

That is one trimmed down board. Congratulations, you deserve it for that alone.

Valium · Post by **Valium** » Wed Jul 16, 2008 10:21 pm

Why thank you, but it still has quite a ways to go before it's even usable again. Also, I don't know if you noticed, but you see those two wires down in the left corner? I accidentally cut through two of the leads with my dremel while I was removing the controller ports, so I soldered em back to working order.

On the top of the board was a small switch, kind of like the switch Sony used for the disk tray, so the system knows if it's open or not. I replaced it with a tact switch and cut through half of the switch (two dead pins). Does anyone know what it's for?

phantom92opera · Post by **phantom92opera** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 10:20 am

system wont spin disk unless it knows the hatch is closed. its a safety feature so flying disks dont cut little boys in the face while they enjoy GTA

Metroid fan · Post by **Metroid fan** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 11:37 am

Does the board still work with all of that trimming? Because there are usually traces inside of the board.