SNES inside a Nomad (Pictures, Progress, and Problems)

[Klefmung]

Well, here's the money shot:


The back:



(cart slot hole still needs to be cut, but it will wind up sticking out the back) And those button contacts for the shoulders are from R1 and L1 of an old hipgear I had laying around.



Here's the guts as of now:


As of this second, the screen is working great off of the 4.8ish volts provided by 4 1.2v rechargable AAs. The controller rig (using the original nomad button contacts) is also working, along with the power supply and audio via original nomad switches, ports, and knobs.

Okay, so last night, I was progressively testing everything off of the batteries as I did specific things. Or at least, that was the plan. the first thing I did, before removing the power switch, was bypass it, like so:


The traces are plenty visible in that image to tell that it bypasses the switch appropriately. In fact, it worked. As soon as I plugged it in, it worked, despite the switch being in the "off" position. However, as soon as I removed the switch, it stopped working. the only thing that changed was that I removed the NES board and soldered connections directly to the SNES motherboard like this:

Now it won't start up. I know it isnt the screen because when I soldered video from another source down to it, the screen worked fine. It is just the system I cant get to work. I guess I fried it? Oh well.

[qwertymodo]

I can't tell from the pics, but a lot of power switches have multiple internally connected pins (i.e. switches with 4 pins in the corners typically have 2 connections, each tied to 2 of the pins). If this is the case, you need to connect the same-signal pins together when you remove the switch.

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[Klefmung]

K, looking just now, the middle pins on the bottom 3 rows arent connected to anything. The pins at the top were always disconnected when on the SNES side because the top ones put it on the NES side. The ones in the middle, I dunno about. I will do further investigating.

[qwertymodo]

Just check all of the pins on the switch you removed with a continuity tester. If you get 2 pins that have continuity, move the switch to a new position. If they still have continuity, you need to bridge those pins on the PCB.