t64 Resurrection

[Snow_Cat]

^ -m-^Alternating signal, gnd, signal gnd...
^ • • ^ b Mrow, Idea!
^ - -^ Do you have resistive ink? You could just PAINT the resistor/jumper pack on!

Also, I've noticed that rotating my designs to an odd angle helps with the (can't remember cprrect term for the lens type effect caused by shadows, like in pin-hole cameras) caused by florescent tubes, since then traces aren't parallel/perpendicular to the light source's pattern.

[Triton]

since you already have a laser printer (they rule amirite ) you could give the toner transfer method a shot, just use glossy photo paper. apparently paper choice is critical. i know you can get finer resolution out of direct to PCB stuff, but10-20mil traces are still pretty small! here is a pretty informative website about it

[Electric Rain]

My ultimate design, since I want to build a nice CNC machine anyway, would be a CNC machine set up as a essentially as plotter with a tiny nozzle (print head?) with etch-resistant ink pumped into it. How's that for lazy? But, this would basically give vector quality traces - literally unachievable with an inkjet or laser printer. And then of course the standard headed bubble etch tank. There was a time when I was looking for copper ink too, so I could just print traces directly onto boards that didn't even need to be copper-clad... then I grew a brain.

But anyway, second best would definitely be a hacked inkjet to print directly on the boards. The only reason laser printers were the preferred method is because their toner could be transferred to the PCB via a clothes iron or whatever cobbled up method people could come up with, but, an inkjet printer hacked to print directly onto the board with some nice, dense ink will provide MUCH better results. The page John is referring to I believe showed solid traces down to 4mil! This seems to me like about the best possible method a hobbyist can hope for.

[Triton]

toner-transfer method is still a good interim step before gearing up to direct to PCB printing, and potentially more accurate than his current transparency/photoresist setup, correct me if i'm wrong

and as to the cnc/plotter idea, the only problem with that is speed/volume. i suppose it depends on how fast your machine is, how large the work surface is, and how small/complex the PCBs being plotted are, direct to PCB printing would still be much faster i'd assume

[Electric Rain]

toner-transfer method is still a good interim step before gearing up to direct to PCB printing, and potentially more accurate than his current transparency/photoresist setup, correct me if i'm wrong

No, you're definitely right. Fully agreed there.

and as to the cnc/plotter idea, the only problem with that is speed/volume. i suppose it depends on how fast your machine is, how large the work surface is, and how small/complex the PCBs being plotted are, direct to PCB printing would still be much faster i'd assume

Truth. But... you can't deny it'd be really cool, and potentially the most accurate method.

[kibble]

Well, if the transparency isn't totally messed up, I can get really good results like in the first pic, and sometimes I get bridges and holes like in the second one.

[kibble]

So guys, it's time for me to come clean on something. I've been cheating on you... Ok not really. But I do have something to reveal. for a bit over a month now I've been working on another project in parallel to this one and in fact, some of the tech that's being put into this project is making it's way into the other one, partly because it allows me to do testing as I go. What is it you ask? It's another N64 Portable, but one that won't contain the t64 board or digital video. I'm dubbing it "project xylem" for now and I will name it later. You'll find out why. The goal of this other portable is to help me with figuring out some things and quickly make a portable in the process that will be for sale when completed to help fundage with the other one. I'm not going with "smallest ever" or anything with this, but if it all goes well, it will be quite unique looking.

Currently, the specs are as follows:

3.5" composite input screen (eBay)
2.5W Stereo amp
Heavily trimmed n64 board (to be done)
Ability to charge and play at same time
Battery TBD
FRAM game save memory
8MB memory

Thinking about:

Dock with 4 controller ports and A/V outputs.

Some of the parts I'm using:

[dragonhead]

noice. just dont forget about your main project here

[Electric Rain]

Xylem? Unique looking? My money's on a wooden case.

[hidiosoman]

The name just makes me think of bio class... Bad memories...

And the ability to charge and play... are you using a CMB? I've been meaning to use those as they look pretty awesome and way cheaper than buying smart chargers as I can use adapters laying around.

[seanmacdonn]

something like this?

[Tchay]

something like this?

"This board can not perform charge and discharge function at the same time."

[kibble]

You guys got it pretty quick. Yes it will be a wooden case built using some really thin, but sturdy hobby plywood stuff and I'm using the CMB out of a portable DVD player battery pack, it works really well. I do like the fact that it doesn't require a separate smart charger or anything. It's all self contained in that thin board that'll fit just nicely at the bottom of the portable. The audio amp is a bit bulky with those caps, but not too bad, and if anything, I'll extend the leads on the caps and lay them flat.

I had to to a bit of work to the LCD that I received. I was going with something along the lines of the first flip up screen on Hailrazer's 3.5" LCD guide. Fortunately, after a bit of soldering sorcery, I got it looking pretty good and nice and compact! Check it out:



Long ribbon cable.... No no, this simply just won't do.



And the LCD can't connect directly to the bottom board because its connector is on the side and it's smaller... .



Oh, but what's this? There's solder pads for that exact same size connector on the main board!



Le remove connector from adapter board, le solder onto main board.



Relocate a few caps that are present on the big connector to the smaller connector.



Plug in LCD and BAM....wait awwwwww.......



Remove and reinsert FPC... WOOT!!!



Place sheet of plastic between LCD and main board and double sided tape both together.





Dab of hot glue on wires.



Voila!

[dragonhead]

useful info right thar! you should put that post in the screen hacking forum for future reference

[kibble]

useful info right thar! you should put that post in the screen hacking forum for future reference

Doneth! http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=42312" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;