My N64p thread

[wajimba]

So, I'm making my first (and probably only) portable. I'll go with a feature list and then questions.

Zenith (aka PSone) screen (not planning on LED mod)
3rd party controller- gamecube joystick
2500mAh li-po battery

Battery power level indicator. Not a continuous monitor, but if you press a tact switch, it takes a reading and charges a capacitor so that the LED lights don't go off right away.
LOB64 port
External controllers on a breakout pod that connects via LOB64 (and 3v power). Keeps the size of the portable down.
Automatic player 1 controller switch when 3v power for external controllers is connected.
And my own little mod- a vga input jack, wired through a sync converter into the screen's RGBS connection, so that you can use the screen as a little 640x480 monitor and show off your N64p at LAN parties. (I know the psone screen is only 15hz- you can get around that using a program called PowerStrip. Guide)

Question:
Can you hook the N64 up to the psone screen using RGBS? I see the pinouts say the N64 can send the signal out, but all the wiring diagrams use component video. I can't get it to work just using the AV area. Image of 64. Image of PSone screen. (I have a wire coming from the composite video for testing purposes)

That's actually all I've got for now. Here's a pic of the mobo to show where I'm at. Gonna use some heatsinks from old computers. How reliable is hot glue for attaching them to the system?
Any suggestions for a name would be welcome. N64p is just too default now. Something that captures the monitor and controller breakout pod idea. Maybe Versatile64. V64. That looks like version 64. Ideas?

[argelfraster]

2500 mah wont be enough.
Use something like 4000 mah+

[Kainevg]

The 3.3v side alone takes 2.7 Ah then you've got the 12v side which is 0.8 Ah then you said your not doing the led mod so thats another 0.7-0.8 Ah...

That equals roughly 4.2 amp hours, if you want any decent amount of time I suggest to go to atleast 4000 mah, for my project i've ordered two 7.4v 4000mah batterys that im wiring in parrallel so I get roughly 2 hours game play..

Other than that it sounds great

-Kaine

[argelfraster]

I did'nt just say that.....But in less words.

[wajimba]

Thanks for the info, but about RGB, can you do it? Or do I have to use composite video from the N64.

[marshallh]

1. Yes you can run RGB+Csync lines from the N64 straight to the PSone lcd.

http://www.gamesx.com/rgbadd/rgbn64.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2004/07/07/psone_lcd/2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

2. You're overestimating the N64 current draw.

Capacity is measured in mAh (milli-amp hours)
Current draw is measured in mA (milliamps)

The current draw on the 3.3v rail varies in each revision but generally it's about 1.2-1.4 amps (1200-1400ma). The 12v line only powers the video and audio DAC, it will work off anything above 7.2v. Only draws a small amount (~100mA)

X current @ Y voltage does NOT equal the same current at a different voltage. You need to compare power, measured in watts

3A * 3.3v + 0.1A * 7.2v = 10.62 watts (this varies as you play different games, also depends on your revision of n64. Earlier ones draw more power)

Let's take your 7.4v 4000mAh battery.
7.4 * 4.0 = 29.6 Wh (watt-hours)

Add in the psone lcd current draw (draws 370ma led-modded)
10.62 watts + (7.4 * 0.370) = 13.32 watts

Find the number of hours of playtime: 29.6 Wh / 13.32 watts = 2.2 hours

3. Don't use hot glue for securing anything. Or you'll be cleaning a nice coating of melted hot glue off your n64 board. Best to run a wire tightly over the heatsink and solder it on both ends to a ground somewhere.[/b]

[Basement_Modder]

In my opinion (which people tend to ignore around here),

The best way to attach a heatsink is to do the following:
1. Apply thin coat of thermal paste on IC, leaving a bit of boarder on the edge
2. On that boarder around the thermal paste, apply some super glue/ gorilla glue (but keep it thin.)
3. press heatsink on, while shifting slightly in twisting motion as you apply pressure in order to work out air bubbles
4. Repeat for each chip, let sit for approx. 10 min.

[wajimba]

I actually really like this idea- would 12 hr epoxy work instead of superglue?

[ShockSlayer]

No.

SS

[wajimba]

why not? what's the difference?

[ShockSlayer]

The best way to attach a heatsink is to do the following:
1. Apply thin coat of thermal paste on IC, leaving a bit of boarder on the edge
2. On that boarder around the thermal paste, apply some super glue/ gorilla glue (but keep it thin.)
3. press heatsink on, while shifting slightly in twisting motion as you apply pressure in order to work out air bubbles
4. Repeat for each chip, let sit for approx. 10 min.

[wajimba]

I know. I can read.
I'm saying, apart from the time difference, is there any other reason to not substitute 12 hr epoxy instead of superglue. I.e. heat, brittleness, etc. I'm just asking because I have some epoxy in my garage now, but I would have to buy superglue.

[wajimba]

1. Yes you can run RGB+Csync lines from the N64 straight to the PSone lcd.

So I did this mod:

But the screen is very dark. Does it matter what revision N64 I have? Is there any way to boost the signal?

[wajimba]

So, I found an amplifier circuit [link]. The only thing is that they use BF 494 transistors that mouser doesn't even have in stock. So, I'm wondering what the difference between something like a BF 494 and say a BC 547?

To update on progress, I got a rumble pak/memory card and flattened the controller board. I also got the plastic and aluminum for the case. No new pics because there's nothing interesting to show really.

[Skyone]

The BF494 cross-references to the 2N3904, BC547 and NTE229. You should be safe with all of those generic NPNs.

To answer the previous question regarding mounting heatsinks, marshallh's suggestion is really the best. Glues don't generally wear at high temperatures, or last forever. If forever-lasting is what you want, get some Arctic Silver Thermal Glue, which is meant exactly for this job, and stands temperatures up to at least 300F.