ZN-40 design questions

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padams82
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ZN-40 design questions

Post by padams82 » Sat May 30, 2009 7:36 pm

I’m building a portable (my first) using the Polycase ZN-40, PS1 screen, and logitech “R” and “L” buttons (4 buttons that are similar to the playstation R1, R2, L1, L2 buttons) and have a few questions.

1.) Controller relocation: I’ve filed down the PS1 screen, tested video and sound, and have fit it nicely into the case; however, it takes up about 2/3 of the “top” of the case, restricting where I can place the N64 controller card. Obviously I can relocate the joystick by adding wire, but for the A,B, and C buttons, I don’t know how to make these flush with the top of the case when the PS1 screen is in the way. Any suggestions?

2.) Cooling options: I’m going to use the standard heatsinks for the three chips and am going to add a small fan for convection cooling. Why does everyone replace these heatsinks? I don’t see a problem with using them.

3.) Power: The TI PTH8080 is rated for 2.25 amps, but I’ve tested the N64 3.3V line with a power supply, and it pulls 2.7 amps. Why does everyone use this part? It seems to me that you could find a better rated part, like the PTH08T261W, which is rated for 3 amps. I would think that over time, the PTH8080 is going to crap out. Has anyone had problems with this?

4.) CCA Mounting techniques. I’d like to use standoffs for the N64 motherboard to keep it from butting up against the PS1 video CCA. Also, I might use Kapton tape to further prevent shorts. But I don’t know how everyone is mounting these assemblies. Are you guys using screws and bondo and junk? I’d like to see some pictorials here because I’ve got no clue of how I’m going to keep these things in place. And hot glue is out of the question. I want this to be robust. Which brings me to my next question.

5.) Bondo: I selected the ZN-40 to avoid using bondo at all costs. However, the designs I looked at clearly used bondo for their integrated Z button or Playstation controller L/R button integration. I can bypass this by using my logitech controller. It’s L/R buttons slide out as separate assemblies, so I won’t have to cut the controller up and bondo the mess out of it. I can simply cut holes in my ZN-40 case, and I think the buttons would mount nicely. The problem isn’t going to be with the bottom side of the case but rather the top. The top of the case, as everyone knows, is recessed, and will most likely pose a problem when I try to cut holes for the joystick. The screen takes up significant real estate and will drive the joystick and buttons to the sides where the case is recessed. To make this clean, I’ve seen people use bondo to round the sides off. Is there any way around this? If not, do you guys have any caveats I should be aware of?

That’s all for now. I’m sure I’ll come up with some more questions as I make progress. I’ll appreciate the suggestions. Be cool.
~P

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XCVG
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Re: ZN-40 design questions

Post by XCVG » Sat May 30, 2009 9:53 pm

1. Relocate the buttons too, everyone does it. If that board is too big, build your own with squishy tacts.
2. The N64 has no real heatsinks. The blocks on the chips are crap for dissipating heat, the shielding is the real heatsink. Huge.
3. I'm curious about your testing method. Mario tested the N64 and the most it ever drew was about 2 amps. And I don't know anyone that's had problems.
4. CCA? What the $#!& is a CCA?
5. No matter what, you will have to use some sort of bondo or filler, at least a little. Hot glue can be used in a pinch, but it's hard to sand, looks like crap, and paints poorly. And I don't know what you are talking about when you mean recessed case.

For reference, here's my design for the YAP64, which was going to use a ZN40 or ZN45 case. It's a bit out of scale.
Image
It has a lot of switches and 2 analog sticks. Also two Z-buttons. The top shoulder buttons are L and R, the bottom 2 are both Z.

Good luck with your portable! Are you entering the compo?

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Re: ZN-40 design questions

Post by eurddrue » Sat May 30, 2009 10:06 pm

The ZN - 40 is going to be a tough case to work with. I'd suggest the ZN-45 so you have enough room to work with in there :wink: And hotglue is god when it comes to actually mounting things in the case.
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Re: ZN-40 design questions

Post by ShockSlayer » Sat May 30, 2009 10:13 pm

eurddrue wrote:The ZN - 40 is going to be a tough case to work with. I'd suggest the ZN-45 so you have enough room to work with in there :wink: And hotglue is god when it comes to actually mounting things in the case.
Yeah, for the record I used zero bondo in my 6th n64p used all radio shack buttons, but the expensive ones, not the crap. They worked great.

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padams82
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Re: ZN-40 design questions

Post by padams82 » Sun May 31, 2009 12:27 pm

XCVG wrote:1. Relocate the buttons too, everyone does it. If that board is too big, build your own with squishy tacts.
2. The N64 has no real heatsinks. The blocks on the chips are crap for dissipating heat, the shielding is the real heatsink. Huge.
3. I'm curious about your testing method. Mario tested the N64 and the most it ever drew was about 2 amps. And I don't know anyone that's had problems.
4. CCA? What the $#!& is a CCA?
5. No matter what, you will have to use some sort of bondo or filler, at least a little. Hot glue can be used in a pinch, but it's hard to sand, looks like crap, and paints poorly. And I don't know what you are talking about when you mean recessed case.

Good luck with your portable! Are you entering the compo?
1. How? That's my question, I suppose. If I relocate the buttons, how do I keep them in place? I don't want to push the buttons and have them fall inside the case.
3. I used a digital power supply. Even the back of the N64 lists the power pinout and current draw, and it rates it at 2.7 amps. Using the PTH0808, you'll be overdrawing it by 20%. I don't suspect this part will last very long under these conditions.
4. It's a circuit card assembly. I need to know how people mount their boards in the case. I don't want to glue these things. I'd prefer to screw them in place, but what could I screw them to?

I'm an electrical engineer, so when it comes to mechanics, I'm at a bit of a loss. I don't want to use glue, Popsicle sticks, and duct tape. And no, I don't think I'll be entering any competitions.

And in response to Shockslayer: Do you have any links or pictures you can reference for your design?

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Re: ZN-40 design questions

Post by ShockSlayer » Sun May 31, 2009 4:14 pm

Your wrong about number 3. The DRAW of the 3.3v line isn't listed, thats just how much amps its putting out.

The actual draw of the 3.3v line is 1.10A for the jumper pack, 1.25A with the expansion pack.

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padams82
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Re: ZN-40 design questions

Post by padams82 » Sun May 31, 2009 8:38 pm

ShockSlayer wrote:Your wrong about number 3. The DRAW of the 3.3v line isn't listed, thats just how much amps its putting out.

The actual draw of the 3.3v line is 1.10A for the jumper pack, 1.25A with the expansion pack.

SS
Thank you for the link, but I'm not too worried about the 3.3V line. I just wanted to report what I measured in the lab at work (Don't worry. I did it on my off day.). Now, about those button relocations...

*edit: You are correct about the 3.3V line. I rechecked my notebook where I recorded the current draw, and it was 1.6 amps. Evidently, I confused this with the N64 power supply rating.

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Re: ZN-40 design questions

Post by Shakespeare » Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:42 pm

padams82 wrote: 4. It's a circuit card assembly. I need to know how people mount their boards in the case. I don't want to glue these things. I'd prefer to screw them in place, but what could I screw them to?

I'm an electrical engineer, so when it comes to mechanics, I'm at a bit of a loss. I don't want to use glue, Popsicle sticks, and duct tape. And no, I don't think I'll be entering any competitions.
You could easily make some screw posts of your own to use in your case. Of course, how you would secure THOSE to your case without bondo or hot glue poses a problem. I'd recommend hot glue myself.
what is this i don't even

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Re: ZN-40 design questions

Post by robm » Sat Jun 13, 2009 1:46 pm

Tip of a soldering iron would probably secure it ok, if there's room.

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