I'm new! Hello!

g0ld3n · Post by **g0ld3n** » Sat Jun 09, 2007 5:44 pm

Hello guys, I'm new to the potable scene. I wanted to say hi and ask for some quick feedback. I am planning on modding my N64 and I heard it's harder than any other console. I don't have any other console to start with so I have to mod the N64. I consider my soldering skill decent but not excellent. So, how you think I'll do? One last question,

sorry for taking you guys' time but I have an intec Gamecube screen I am planning on modding on my N64. It takes 12V. My question is that is that WAY too much power for the screen? All comments on this is welcome. You guys have a nice community here.

hy phrend · Post by **hy phrend** » Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:18 pm

well if it takes 12 volts then it would only make sense that 12 volts isn't too much for it... i geuss i just don't understand what exactly your saying...

Turbo Tax 1.0 · Post by **Turbo Tax 1.0** » Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:00 pm

the 12 volt line actually goes to a 7805 and bumps it down to 5 volts

so you can run it off of anywhere from around 7.2 volts to 30 something I think

g0ld3n · Post by **g0ld3n** » Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:05 pm

hy phrend wrote:well if it takes 12 volts then it would only make sense that 12 volts isn't too much for it... i geuss i just don't understand what exactly your saying...

LOL. Sorry for not explaining more clearly but what I meant was that it takes 12V. I was asking if that uses WAY too much power for a battery to be able to handle. I didn't want my N64 going for 20 minutes then a recharge. Anyway, thanks Turbo Tax, so I can use a 7805 regulator to have the screen and N64 run off of a 7.2 battery pack? Is that correct? One more thing, is there a place you recommend I buy things like the regulator and battery? Thanks again guys, I hope I can make it real nice.

usbcd36 · Post by **usbcd36** » Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:37 pm

Wellâ€¦

You'll need something to generate the 3.3v that the N64 needs, and what's common around here is a TI DC-DC converter, which you might be able to get for free. I didn't go that route myself, but many others have.

As for the difficulty, N64s are easy to accidentally fry (usually by static discharge, so get a wrist strap and use it!).

The total complexity depends on how much modding you'll be doing. If you have decent soldering skills, you should be fine, but don't go attempting to relocate the expansion pak. Hubris shot me down when I tried that maneuver.

Most of the other components are easy to remove, but beware of pins that are soldered to ground. If you sit there with a desoldering iron, you'll just heat up the board and get nowhere. If a pin (especially on the red LED and the expansion slot) doesn't want to come loose, but the pin next to it came out fine, there is a good chance that it is soldered to the ground, which is a huge amount of metal in the board. Instead of possibly damaging other components with heat, leave that pin (or set of pins) for later. When those are the only ones left, and they are separated from any component (i.e. you ripped the expansion slot off, leaving half of the pins behind), apply some fresh solder to the pins with your soldering iron, then use the tip to push the pin through the hole. I believe that the extra contact provided by the molten solder helps to transfer the heat faster, therefore melting the solder in the area instead of just diffusing out to the rest of the ground area.

For all of your electronic components, I recommend Digi-Key. Their prices are good, and I've always received my orders promptly and well-packed. Make sure you order all of your components at once, though, since they have a "handling" charge of $5 if your order is less than $25.

Batteries can come from any reputable dealer. RadioShack sells RC car battery packs that can work, though they will be overpriced. A cheaper option is to buy Ni-MH AA batteries and holders. When the batteries run out of recharge cycles, you just get new ones, and if you have a charger already, you don't need a new one.

You'll want to check the amperage that the screen takes with a multimeter. They vary, but a digital multimeter is a very helpful piece of equipment to have on hand, and it won't run you much. Chances are, the screen will take about 1 amp at 12v, which is a bit much for a portable. I know nothing of the possibility of LED-modding this particular screen, so you'll need to search around.

Wellâ€¦that's about it.

g0ld3n · Post by **g0ld3n** » Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:46 pm

Wow. Thank you so much for great tips and nice suggestion. I'll be sure to do all those things. I have already found a nice anti static wrist band on ebay too. Just a couple questions,

Where do I get a TI DC-DC converter? And how for free? Is there any other route? Lastly, how do I check the amperage and how will knowing it help me? Sorry, you can tell I'm new at this but I'm just trying to gather information so I don't do something stupid I'll regret later. Anyway, thank you so much for the help and I'll check out your recommended sites. Thanks again!!

Felino · Post by **Felino** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 8:02 pm

usbcd36 wrote:Wellâ€¦
apply some fresh solder to the pins with your soldering iron, then use the tip to push the pin through the hole. I believe that the extra contact provided by the molten solder helps to transfer the heat faster, therefore melting the solder in the area instead of just diffusing out to the rest of the ground area.

Actually its probably the extra flux you are putting into the joint that is helping. Anyway, its works, thats what matters.

usbcd36 · Post by **usbcd36** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 8:57 pm

It WAS rosin-core, so I guess that's possibleâ€¦