Expansion slot relocation

Includes but not limited to: SNES, Genesis, Sega CD, PlayStation 1, Nintendo 64, Dreamcast, Game Gear and I guess the Virtual Boy.

Moderator:Moderators

User avatar
Bíg Ã
Posts:123
Joined:Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:02 pm
Location:Somewhere, beyond the sea
Contact:
Expansion slot relocation

Post by Bíg à » Wed Mar 15, 2006 12:20 pm

I've been wondering on how to relocate the expansion pack for a while. So, any1 know how to relocate it, and if yes, can you give me a guide :?: :x
Must we all die... eating pie?

http://www.freewebs.com/darth_big_andy

Chunk 64 Progress:

Design: 100%
Controller: 100%
Power: 2700mAh power
Case: 75%
Cartidge Slot: Decided against Relocation
Screen: 100%

User avatar
marshallh
Moderator
Posts:2986
Joined:Sat Sep 10, 2005 2:17 pm
360 GamerTag:marshallh
Location:here and there
Contact:

Post by marshallh » Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:21 pm

Short answer: No.
Long answer: If you have decent SMT soldering skills, you can desolder a 4MB ram chip from the expansion pak and solder it to the slot's contacts. But if you don't know what SMT is, then forget about it.

It's going to pretty much have to stay there, and you'll need to work it into your design.
Image

User avatar
Bíg Ã
Posts:123
Joined:Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:02 pm
Location:Somewhere, beyond the sea
Contact:

Post by Bíg à » Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:30 pm

I don't know what SMT is :oops: :(
and i've already bought my case. I s'pose i can buy a new one for 3 quid
thanks
Must we all die... eating pie?

http://www.freewebs.com/darth_big_andy

Chunk 64 Progress:

Design: 100%
Controller: 100%
Power: 2700mAh power
Case: 75%
Cartidge Slot: Decided against Relocation
Screen: 100%

User avatar
Turbo Tax 1.0
Portablizer Extraordinaire
Posts:4773
Joined:Wed Mar 30, 2005 6:19 pm
Location:Delaware, no sales tax
Contact:

Post by Turbo Tax 1.0 » Wed Mar 15, 2006 4:24 pm

forget about it the only person who has done it is timmeh and he is one wicked hard core solder beast
when life gives you lemons make flux
Image
snesp mk4

User avatar
Metroid fan
Senior Member
Posts:2158
Joined:Fri Apr 15, 2005 2:36 pm
Location:Somewhere in the universe
Contact:

Post by Metroid fan » Wed Mar 15, 2006 4:56 pm

No duh that guys good!How does he do it?

Electric Rain
Senior Member
Posts:1911
Joined:Tue Mar 29, 2005 12:39 pm
PSN Username:Denki_no_Ame
Location:What's it to you? Stalker...
Contact:

Post by Electric Rain » Fri Mar 17, 2006 4:00 am

Metroid fan wrote:No duh that guys good!How does he do it?
Practice, practice and more practice. From what I understand, he doesn't even have a very good iron. Just a RadioShack cheapie like the rest of us. It's really not hard, though. I wish I could show you guys my 1337 501d3r1ng 5ki11z, but I don't have everything I need for my portable yet, so I'm not going to start when I don't have everything I need to finish.

Anyway, SMT stands for "Surface Mount Technology". *Does a quick Google Image search*
Image
This is what an SMD (Surface Mount Device) looks like. Surface mount chips are much smaller than the standard DIP chips you're probably used to working with. The pins are therefore smaller and spaced closer together. Rather than going through to the other side of the board, the pins on an SMD fold outwards, as seen in the picture above, and solder to the same side of the board as the chip itself.

The RAM chip inside the Expansion Pak is an SMD. You would have to remove the chip from the Expansion Pak, desolder the Expansion Pak connector on your N64 board, and solder the RAM chip in its place. You may also need to find a place for the surface mount resistors and capacitors inside the Expansion Pak... I don't know if they would be needed if you soldered the chip directly to the board. But, the only way to tell... is to try it.

If you think you're up to it, desolder the pins on the side of the chip with only four pins first. Then take on the side that has pins down its entire side. Use a desoldering braid or pump to remove as much solder as possible, then try to quickly heat all of the still attached pins by "skipping" around to each one with your iron while gently tugging on the chip. You may also be able to use a heat gun. Avoid touching the chip as much as possible, as it is very sensitive to static electricity. Use a static wrist strap if you have one. I wish you luck if you're going to attempt this. :wink:
Image

User avatar
timmeh87
Senior Member
Posts:3047
Joined:Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:19 pm
Location:Ontario, Canada

Post by timmeh87 » Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:18 am

the resistors inside the expansion pack are required, the capacitors are reccomended. youre best off just using the whole circuit board, and not trying to remove the chip. i broke a nintendo and an expansion pack trying to do it like that.
Image

"Linux is only free if your time is worthless"

User avatar
Bíg Ã
Posts:123
Joined:Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:02 pm
Location:Somewhere, beyond the sea
Contact:

Post by Bíg à » Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:45 pm

ja, i guess i'll just leave it he way it is

thanks :twisted:
Must we all die... eating pie?

http://www.freewebs.com/darth_big_andy

Chunk 64 Progress:

Design: 100%
Controller: 100%
Power: 2700mAh power
Case: 75%
Cartidge Slot: Decided against Relocation
Screen: 100%

User avatar
Bíg Ã
Posts:123
Joined:Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:02 pm
Location:Somewhere, beyond the sea
Contact:

Post by Bíg à » Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:47 pm

although, i could try what electric rain said :|
Must we all die... eating pie?

http://www.freewebs.com/darth_big_andy

Chunk 64 Progress:

Design: 100%
Controller: 100%
Power: 2700mAh power
Case: 75%
Cartidge Slot: Decided against Relocation
Screen: 100%

JackFrost22
Sir Posts-alot
Posts:4186
Joined:Fri Jun 04, 2004 4:10 pm

Post by JackFrost22 » Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:52 pm

#1 Like most smt crap you can just apply minimal heat and pull it off, I had a broken N64 and ripped it off, but no pads came off so its okay :wink: I used ultra ATA ide cable and relocated the slot. I just wanted some practice, but it seems okay. I usd solderpaste to resoler it though.If I ever build a N64p I'll relocate one for real.

User avatar
XFactor
Posts:165
Joined:Thu Feb 23, 2006 5:21 pm

Post by XFactor » Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:49 pm

Can you take the PCB out and somehow solder wires from the expansion pak to the ram port? I've looked at it and it looks possible; i just need a confirmation on this.

JackFrost22
Sir Posts-alot
Posts:4186
Joined:Fri Jun 04, 2004 4:10 pm

Post by JackFrost22 » Fri Mar 17, 2006 8:28 pm

XFactor wrote:Can you take the PCB out and somehow solder wires from the expansion pak to the ram port? I've looked at it and it looks possible; i just need a confirmation on this.
I don't see why not.

User avatar
Skyone
Moderator
Posts:6390
Joined:Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:35 pm
Location:it is a mystery
Contact:

Post by Skyone » Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:43 pm

You're gonna/gonan need massive solder skills to pull it off, very possible though. I know some people that have done it, one being timmeh, one being me. Not to brag or anything, just saying. :wink:

Step 1 - Information and Prep:
Here's what you'll need:
Good Eyes
xAlot magnifying glass
Technique
A Unfathomably Steady Hand
A LOW TEMP. SOLDERING IRON
Tweezers
Helping Hands

You must understand:
It takes practice
SMT is good for cost, not for patcience ( :twisted: )
Take your time, or you WILL fry

All SMT/SMD products are deciscopic, some even centiscopic.

Most range in size (resistors, caps, SOTs, etc...) from 20 thou (or thousanth of an inch) to 100 thou in width, and 40 thou to 220 thou in length.

Always use a LT (or Low Temperature) Soldering Iron.
I cannot stress this enough. SMT products may die and fail to work with too much heat applied, it's happened to me hunders of times.

Step 2 - Technique:

You need to apply a correct amount of solder.

DO NOT assume that a speck of solder will stick. The product WILL fall off.

DO NOT assume that a Gamecube Power Supply (layman's; boatload) of solder will help. This'll just make things short out easily.

DO assume techniqued and practiced amounts of solder will help. You want to have enough so all visible metal has solder applied.

Oh and another; USE FLUX. If you don't know what it is; it's a solute that helps solder and it's product stick to the applied surface.

If you still dont get flux, have a conversation with Turbo Tax :wink:.

Ya I meant the user Turbo Tax, not the program. :wink:.

Step 3 - Do it!:


1. Apply a small amount of solder to the board's conductive area where the SMT chip/part will be placed. Also, apply some to the pins on the part (SMT). This is known as tinning.

2. Hold the SMT part to a board that you want to solder to with tweezers. Have your iron ready.

3. Heat the pins up, very quickly, and pull your iron back.

You have to master this timing, and discover your own technique.


Another teqnique is just glopping solder on the SMD's pins to tin it, then desoldering the excess solder, leaving the pins tinned and shiny.



Have fun with it, practice on cheap SMT resistors at first, they're usually cheap.



Hopefully this has helped, a bit at least. Took me 20 minutes to write.

-Later,
Skyler
Last edited by Skyone on Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:01 pm, edited 3 times in total.

Electric Rain
Senior Member
Posts:1911
Joined:Tue Mar 29, 2005 12:39 pm
PSN Username:Denki_no_Ame
Location:What's it to you? Stalker...
Contact:

Post by Electric Rain » Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:54 pm

Have either of you two successfully relocated the chip? Or have you just desoldered it?
Image

User avatar
Skyone
Moderator
Posts:6390
Joined:Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:35 pm
Location:it is a mystery
Contact:

Post by Skyone » Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:08 pm

Relocated, I have atleast, don't know about tim.

Post Reply