NES 2 Composite Mod

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:59 pm

So the NES 2 only outputs RF and has vertical lines. What you going to do? All the mods I found on the internet fix the RF issue but still have vertical lines!

ENTER the LHE NES 2 mod!

It has only 4 parts and 1 comes with the NES 2!

http://longhornengineer.com/2011/07/19/ ... schematic/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

wallydawg · Post by **wallydawg** » Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:26 pm

Good timing with this. I just picked up a toploader and was looking to do this mod and maybe add in a power LED. Looks a lot simpler and more direct than other composite mods I've seen.

lovablechevy · Post by **lovablechevy** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:37 am

i can attest that this mod is AMAZING! looks awesome on my flat screen:

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:18 pm

Pretty sure you can buy all the parts at Radio Shack to.

lovablechevy · Post by **lovablechevy** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:20 pm

Rekarp wrote:Pretty sure you can buy all the parts at Radio Shack to.

i can confirm this. you may have to use slightly different resistor values. but as you can see, it still works awesome! i had to substitute a 330 ohm for the 300 and a 68 ohm for the 75. guess those aren't super common or something? *shrugs* just bought a huge variety pack from rat shack and it was all a go!!!!

Drakon · Post by **Drakon** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 8:34 am

What a strange way to write the diagram "u5", why doesn't the author just say "ppu chip" or "ppu chip u5"? Anyway this is almost the same as the amp I built except mine has a 110 ohm instead of 75 and also after the 110 ohm I have a 560 pf cap connected to ground. Yes this mod does indeed work great! Another thing I found strange is that if I didn't run the video wire over top of the shielding I got jailbar video interference on my tv. When I had the system running the closer I brought the ppu video wire (ppu pin 21) to the pcb the worse the jaiblars would get. Also you can tap audio from the system from the "fc1" part. Just add a wire to fc1 on the leg that's closer to the cartridge slot.

Drakon · Post by **Drakon** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 8:39 am

*duplicate post deleted*

lovablechevy · Post by **lovablechevy** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 8:42 am

Drakon wrote:What a strange way to write the diagram "u5", why doesn't the author just say "ppu chip" or "ppu chip u5"? Anyway this is almost the same as the amp I built except mine has a 110 ohm instead of 75 and also after the 110 ohm I have a 560 pf cap connected to ground. Yes this mod does indeed work great! Another thing I found strange is that if I didn't run the video wire over top of the shielding I got jailbar video interference on my tv. When I had the system running the closer I brought the ppu video wire (ppu pin 21) to the pcb the worse the jaiblars would get. Also you can tap audio from the system from the "fc1" part. Just add a wire to fc1 on the leg that's closer to the cartridge slot.

using rekarps, there are no jailbars. no matter how close wires are to the pcb. i hooked it up to my 37" flat screen and it was perfect. and he probably just said "u5" cuz he was writing it out fast for me. besides, it's all that's needed.

Drakon · Post by **Drakon** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 8:51 am

lovablechevy wrote:using rekarps, there are no jailbars. no matter how close wires are to the pcb. i hooked it up to my 37" flat screen and it was perfect. and he probably just said "u5" cuz he was writing it out fast for me. besides, it's all that's needed.

This video circuit is almost exactly the same as mine. I guess I'll build his version see if it makes any difference regarding jailbars. I did make an odd discovery that the nes 2 has basically no jailbars when you rgb modify the system. I didn't expect that to happen...

Drakon · Post by **Drakon** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 8:56 am

Okay I had enough parts laying around to build the exact amp circuit. It works great and you're right this one has no jailbars. Coolness! For anyone who's interested u5 pin 21 is the video out pin of the ppu chip (ppu chip is u5), u5 pin 20 is ground, and u6 pin 40 is 5v (I actually wired up 5v on mine to the ppu 5v pin which is pin 40 of the ppu/u5). U6 is the cpu.

*edit* Okay this amp has the same issue as the other one I built. If I have the system running and move the ppu video out wire right up against the pcb the jailbars get worse. Still overall this amp produces a cleaner picture than the other amp I was using

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 6:17 pm

Drakon wrote:Okay I had enough parts laying around to build the exact amp circuit. It works great and you're right this one has no jailbars. Coolness! For anyone who's interested u5 pin 21 is the video out pin of the ppu chip (ppu chip is u5), u5 pin 20 is ground, and u6 pin 40 is 5v (I actually wired up 5v on mine to the ppu 5v pin which is pin 40 of the ppu/u5). U6 is the cpu.

*edit* Okay this amp has the same issue as the other one I built. If I have the system running and move the ppu video out wire right up against the pcb the jailbars get worse. Still overall this amp produces a cleaner picture than the other amp I was using

You should check my website. I am running the mods with the wires glued to the pcb. The pcb is labeled with U5 not ppu. Makes it much easier for people to find the pins.

Drakon · Post by **Drakon** » Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:49 am

Yeah like it doesn't look terrible with the wires glued right against the pcb. But if I have the system running and I move the ppu pin 21 wire closer to the pcb/farther away I can literally watch the jailbars get worse/better on my tv real time. So it's still better to have just that wire run over the shielding. Also your amp design does a better job of removing the jailbars than the other amp design I was using which was the one darthcloud designed. Definitely checking out your site for....stuff!

*edit*

that atari circuit you made is pretty cool! If I was into atari stuff I'd definitely order one of your kits and throw it together!

Reubensupernerd · Post by **Reubensupernerd** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:26 am

Dumb question: when you say that you don't need a few of the inductors or capacitors do you just lop off the part of the board they're on, or do you just relocate them? If they're truly not needed why are they on the board in the first place?

Rekarp · Post by **Rekarp** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:41 am

Reubensupernerd wrote:Dumb question: when you say that you don't need a few of the inductors or capacitors do you just lop off the part of the board they're on, or do you just relocate them? If they're truly not needed why are they on the board in the first place?

Dont need them. They convert the AC current to DC current that the board uses. Working on a portable thats why I am not using them

Reubensupernerd · Post by **Reubensupernerd** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:27 pm

OHHHH so those capacitors are filters for the current after its rectified?

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