I hated the controls on my super joy3 and basically wanted to stuff the guts into an original NES controller. I didn't need the cartridge connector, or the second player port (kind of regretting this for light gun games, but I have an LCD so it's a moot point anyway). So here's my work.
stay tuned for copy/pasta action.
Yeah that's what I thought.. I don't need the connector though, so I may just snip it off.GonzoMPM-1 wrote:Use a desoldering braid or a desoldering iron. If you are discarding the 60 pin for a 72 pin connector, you may find it easier to snip the pins of the 60 pin above the board and then just de-solder the pins one at a time.blueskies wrote:Hey G-force, I love this mod and want to try a simpler version for myself. I have a few questions though..
1) any tips on desoldering the 60 pin connector and the grey cable from the NOAC?
I guess what I'm curious about is, can I just find the wire for 'A' on the nes pad and connect it to the 'A' point on the NOAC main board? (and so on of course). If so, that means at least 8 lines for buttons, which doesn't add up. Maybe there's already a link or tutorial for this, but I can't find it (meaning I'll look after I post )There's a LOT of revisions of NOAC, some of which aren't even in the FAQ.2) could you post the wiring, or some tips, for the nes controller buttons to the NOAC?
Best to look at YOURs and then follow the traces and label as appropriate. If you're using a Super Joy III, the player 2 controller board is a lot cleaner and may save you some space.
yep, you're right. It threw me off because there's no way to switch it from the outside.I think the little switch disables the built in games when you want to play off of a cartridge.3) kind of offtopic, do you know what the little switch on the SJ3 button board does? it's labelled M and SW2...
thanks mcgyver for all the help.
Anyway, here's what I'm working with.
A dismantled SuperJoyIII and an NES controller, and the main board (zoomed).
I want something similar to the original post (because it's awesome), but without the cartridge connector, led and finish (because I'm not). Basically slimming down the SJ3, and changing cases. I think all I need to do is separate the main board on the SJ3, remove the connector, wire 8 buttons from the nes controller, wire the power, wire the switch, and wire the audio/video.
Here's some notes, please if you can, help me before I destroy this cool toy trying to make it cooler .
1) audio/video need each: 1 line to ground, 1 line to audio/video points respectively.
2) labeling of the wiring is as follows:
3.3V (not used)
(not much, but at least I figured something out..
1) nes pad wiring (link or help)
2) how to wire the on/off switch
3) how to wire the power connector
Thanks to anyone who helps, I really appreciate it.
control board, top
main board, top
main, bottom (blurry, sorry)
I hadn't even thought about space constraints yet, I just assumed since the main board on SJ3 is so small, it would fit. I think the OP removed the logic chip and rewired it to the other side.. I might need to do this if there's no other space, but I was hoping for a quick hack (as always).
I had another thought about this one last night.. I'm thinking of leaving the existing cord on the nes controller so it can still be used on the console, and just adding the switch/power and av ports to the side so it can be used as a SJ3. would it be possible to just add on to the nes controls without taking off the cord?
chopped and cleaned up the main board, removed switch, outlet and av connectors from the other board.
Here's what I have to work with. Will probably scrap the cord idea, and just have the AV wired directly in with plugs coming out to TV.
Done! Here's the final wrap up. Mods, let me know if I should copy this into a new thread, I didn't mean to hijack this one, I just had related questions, and it kinda snowballed from there.
I ended up wiring the controls directly to the sj3.. there's no way anything else could have fit in that case. It barely fits now, as you can see I had to use the ol' hot glue gun riser trick to add about 3mm, then I murdered it out with some black duct tape to cover all the ugliness. Bottom line, it plays great, and the controls are so tight!
Also, I wired in the 2 capacitors, 1 resistor, and the 3 pronged D-thingy (zenier diode as I think you called it Gonzo). I just followed the traces and drew out the wiring before taking anything off. I was nervous hooking straight power to the thing without any regulation, and it seems to work.
And in case you didn't catch it, that 4021 did a little backflip, and works great from the other side of the board.
I know this isn't as cool as the OP's hack, but it's just what I want. Thanks for the inspiration and help (that's you Gonzo).[/url]