Let me know if this is enough or if you really want me to detail the power supply, as well.
Let's do it...
Only one screw attaches the stand to the monitor. Take it off. Then remove every screw you can see on the backside.
Start prying the case open with screw drivers. It's one of the tougher cases I've had to open, but maybe I'm just a pansy.
There are clips holding the two halves together. When you get far enough along, you can start predicting where the clips are and it becomes easier.
Pull the front half away. Because of the power button at the bottom, open it from the top like so.
To separate the two halves completely, you have to unscrew the power button or just unplug the connector and come back for it later.
Looking at the LCD now, remove the screw in each corner.
Lift the LCD from the side with the screen controls. And see those wires holding it in? Unplug the back light connectors and continue lifting the LCD out.
The last thing standing between the LCD and freedom is the ribbon cable from the controller board. Remove the metallic tape on the back of the LCD holding the ribbon in place
The brown part on the connector just flips up and the ribbon cable slides out. You can use a finger nail or, if you bite your nails (shame on you), use a flat head screwdriver. Pull the LCD away and set it somewhere safe.
Unscrew all the screws here to remove the cage from the back of the monitor. While your screwdriver is in your hand, remove the LCD controls from the case, too. Take the whole cage out and you're done with the monitor case. Pull the cage apart while not jerking too hard on the ribbon cable.
Remove the screws from the power board.
Pull the power board off the controller board by separating this connector right here.
Go ahead and remove the ribbon cable and the connector for the buttons if you'd like. They just kind of get in the way at this point. Remove the screws around the controller board and remove the screws attaching the DVI and VGA connector to the metal cage. Pull it out.
This is the bottom side of the power board and inverter board.
This is where you can dremel it. I just did straight lines, but you can make it all pretty for yours, slimming it down and whatnot.
You can ignore doing this if you want, but to make the screen portion of your laptop as thin as possible, you want to desolder the back light connectors and resolder them to the other side, which has all the other components.
I reused the pins that I cut through when chopping the board in half, but you can use wire if you want. Remember that you're flipping the connector to the other side so keep the positive and negative lines correct. Do the same with the other one. Also, lay the taller capacitors and resistors flat on both this board and the controller board
Yellow is 12v, black is ground, and the two red wires tell the screen to turn on.
Run those wires to the controller board like so. I suppose you could just connect the 12v and ground to the connector, but then the area gets cluttered with multiple solder joints. You can desolder the entire connector, but connectors are awesome. Your 12v, 5v, and ground, from whatever source you're using, can go where I labeled.
I didn't do any taping or gluing, which you should do. You really need to make sure you have something separating the boards from the back of the LCD, too.
Let me know if anything needs changing or explaining. Thanks to Ben for answering some of my questions about this.