Soldering Iron
Moderator:Moderators
- TitaniumHamster
- Posts:174
- Joined:Mon Feb 20, 2006 12:48 pm
- Location:Chicago, Illinois
Try the Hakko 936 soldering stations at this link. They come in different sizes from samll to large and you don't have to get a new station for every size iron. The smallest Iron can use a non-tapered 0.2mm tip (that is the size of the end of the soldering tip.
Check these out at this link
http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko936-11.html
Check these out at this link
http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko936-11.html
- Retromaster
- Portablizer
- Posts:791
- Joined:Wed Nov 22, 2006 11:03 pm
- Location:florida- the land of old people
- Contact:
um, yeah, grounding it WILL help.TitaniumHamster wrote:What?Retromaster wrote:grounding it keeps it from frying stuff staticaly.
Well, my big issue with the old Radioshack irons was the fact that the metal tip would get (I'm gonna sound REAL stupid) "dirty" from exposure to air, itself, and liquid solder. After it was "dirty", it owuld no longer react correctly with solder and would either refuse to melt correctly or start forcing bad contacts on me.
I suck at soldering, but I know that the iron would make things worse the longer it was on. (meaning minutes on)
I love your guides and pic tutorials sky, but I hate that radioshack red bulb monster like nothing else!Skyone wrote: TitaniumHamster, get a sharper iron, wattage rating is usually not important, but you'd want something 45W or lower. The heated solder pump (with the red bulb) is actually a decent tool. Unless you want to go dishing out money, I'd stick with it.
15 watt grounded iron from rat shack= instant success.
GET IT.
grounding it will keep you from statically frying small components like processors.
correct me if I am wrong.
(not gonna happen)
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