Ok, working on a case for a NESp, thought I might share what I've done so far as an example or if anyone can throw me some suggestions.

This is a Polycase AG-85
Going for the frakencase mod using Loctite Epoxy.




Obvious that I'm borrowing a Zenith Screen case to bond into the Polycase.



Cutting down the NES controller as small as I can without compromising it's integrity.


Took a little bit off the sides of the Zenith screen to make room for the NES controller parts.
Minus the Start and Select buttons.....

Clamping the case an zenith screen case down so I can tack it with hot glue then move in with the epoxy.

Got it as flat as I could but the screen is still a little more elevated than the case itself.




Sanding was fun, but took the longest, and made the most mess..........had to keep going down in sand paper grit to get it to move faster.


I know it didn't help to scrape this bit off, but I needed to see how much to shave off until all is smooth.


This is pretty much what it looks like with all the sanding done.

Started painting with Krylon Fusion spray paint. Though I wouldnt of minded a primer to help fill small nitches in the epoxy.
Just I couldn't find a gray any closer to the actual NES shell that appealed to me. As far as plastic spray paints I mean.





These are closeups of the small nitches, and some parts where the spray paint just will not latch onto however much I spray it.

I'm giving it rough sandings in between coats to see if it will help get the paint flowing properly.
I know I'm supposed to do light sandings, but I was also thinking of maybe getting a wood filler and sand off a coat of paint, fill the cracks, sand, and re-paint.
'
It is actually getting a lot smoother each time I go to spray on a new coat.
This is maybe the 5th coat.......

Wow, it looks great. Really great More coats of paint is always fun and fills in tiny little imperfections sometimes. Again, it looks awesome

what kind of nes, real or clone?

Real NES, I would of gone with a clone to shrink it, but I had 2 real NES boards sitting around.

Bondo spot putty in the cracks/holes.

Buy it at Wal-Mart in the Automobile section. It is red/orange.

Rub it on with your finger to fill the holes, wait an hour, then sand with 320 grit (it comes off easily). All that will be left when you are done sanding is the spot putty in the holes/cracks nothing else. Sand a bit around the spots and re-paint after cleaning it good.

What do ya'll think of using joint compound to fill in the small cracks?

Or should i just keep with the sanding idea until i can get it smooth.

Keep in mind i'm putting a second color on this, i'm just getting the base coat finished.

Having second thoughts on the mobo....lol

I wanna have it top loading and not some abomination on the back of this sweet piece of plastic.
May be going for a Retro clone NES that is compatible with the original controllers, may provide enough space to make top loading a breeze.

as long as you buy a connector (there's one on the Game Genie), it will work fine for top loading.

Nah, its not the connector that is the isssue. I chopped up the zero force insertion slot like in Ben's book so you can use it for normal loading like either top or a backside slot. It's just the NES mobo is too large in an AG-85 case to allow room to mount the cart slot on the top. I'd be forced to mount the cart slot on the back and it would mean I'd have to install some abomination to its back to hold the cart in place. I'd prefer this cases' natural curves with a top cart slot over that any day.

Get a Yobo brand NES clone. It has the original controller ports.

Already ordered a Retro Bit NES clone. It has original controller ports, plus i heard its the least glitchy.

That update image posted is bunk. I decided to buff out a bit more of the paint and the stupid residue from the painter's tape and well it started to appear gray in too many spots. Hard to get the black coat thick and straight on some of the parts. So i'm just going to go with a normal solid gray coat and nothin else.

Oh crap its Cha.... Quatro

Yeah, you have to do a lot of thin layers. It's very time consuming.