Hello.

Okay so everyone has seen SifuF's screen hack in which he removed the bottom of the PSone screen. But it seems no one else has done it that I know of. Once I knew it was possible, I gave it a try using a broken board to trace connections and practice on and low and behold it worked when I did it for real! Like SifuF said, its not very hard. I have some pictures in my SNESp work log of the completed product of this mod in case your skeptical.

A quick note: I know some of you all are currently working on a guide to do this, but I thought since everyone has talked about it and not delivered, I would go ahead and post my process of doing so. This is what I did, and it worked, so there.

So lets get started! The pictures below show all of the components in which you will you need to connect things to, which parts can be removed, and which need to be relocated. This is most of the work right here! I will be referring to these later on.

Front
http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/5632/img8446t.jpg
Back
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/1327/img8445r.jpg

1. Start by removing the components labeled in blue on the front and back of the board. You can just rip them off with pliers or desolder them.

2. CAREFULLY desolder the components labeled with red on the back of the board. These are important! Desoldering the voltage regulator (component #1) is tricky. I heated up the solder on the ground tab until it was completely melted and then ever so gently lifted it enough to where the back is disconnected. Then proceed to desolder the two pins. Removing the two capacitors (components #2 and #3) is not as hard. Just heat up one side of them and gently lift until its disconnected and then desolder the other side. Set these aside for now.

3. Go ahead and mark out on your board where you want to cut. You can see where I marked out the line where I wanted to cut; around there obviously. Take this time to cut the top of the board off as well if you are doing the LED mod.

4. Now to start putting stuff back on. The voltage regulator and the larger black capacitor will need to be grounded. Find an area on the board in which there are no components (I used the right side of the board). Scrape the green paint off with an exact-o knife until there is a descent amount of copper showing. Lay the grounding tab of the voltage regulator against it and solder it to the exposed spot. You may want to use flux. Once it is firmly connected, run some short wires from the two pins back to where they originally were. Now scrape a smaller spot for the big black capacitor. Attach the side without the white rectangle on it to the spot and run a bit of wire from the other side to its original place. The last capacitor is important for your video to work properly. Attach a bit of wire to each side. Attach one end (doesn't matter which) to the top original spot and the other to the spot labeled R3 in the picture. The side is important!

5. Your in the home stretch! (kinda) Anyway start attaching all of your usual connections from your system, batteries and such making sure your attaching to the exact spot indicated in the diagram except for brightness+ and volume+. Speaker Right+ and Left+ are the outer pins on that chip in case you cant tell by the picture. An interesting note, since removing the bottom section of the board severs the +7.5v line and needs to be relocated, I found that the entire top portion of the board, which is the inverter for the original back light, can be by passed just by soldering to the place I indicated. Power savings? Who knows.

6. To hook up volume and brightness control to tact switches, just refer to the picture below.


7. After all of that, congratulations your done! Fire her up and see if you were successful!

Feel free to leave feedback and if this guide needs anything, let me know!

-Erlex

Wow, you just finished the guide! ♥.♥ I think I could be in love.

RGB and C-Sync needs adding.

Fixed! Credit goes to Bacteria for RBG and C-Sync locations.

Fantastic tutorial! Thank you!

Indeed, excellent tutorial. How about the sides too, then you can complete the guide!

nice the other tutorials on making the ps1 mobo smaller are not in depth.

Perhaps this should be a sticky; if the tutorial for trimming of the board is finished for the sides too??

Stickified!

(have wanted to say that for a bit now!)

Wow
Wouldn’t have called that, thanks guys! That’s really awesome.
I will make sure I add a part that details the removal/relocation of the sides. I am not sure if I am in a position to attempt to slice and fold the left side of the board, but I will defiantly trace some connections for you guys in case anyone really wants to attempt that, and mark out where one could cut on the right because that will be easy.

I've heard it's only the sound chip. If you could build a smaller amp, you could put it anywhere and cut off the other side of the board.

My PAL Psone screen has 2 more capacitors on the audio right line, plus it doesn't have mounted the chip were you said to connect the 7,5 volts line; may this cause problems?

Hello, I joined after seeing a lot of good info on the psone screen. Ive had one a couple of years that I have yet to put in my car.

I didnt realise it was possible to do so much to this screen, Im hoping that after I remove the backlight, audio amp, move the regulators off board, and some other things, that there should be far less interferance/heat and improve the picture a lot.

I read most of the guides on here and they are all good, but I couldnt find any high res picture with everything. The one in this thread is down :O

So I have been drawing one up while hacking mine. I used the high res photo by Kyo, thanks for making it.

Here it is: http://rapidshare.com/files/244271090/psone.pdn 30mb !!! but two layers, easyer (paint.net .PDN)
or here is a 5mb jpg. Layers really help with something like this.

One part Im not too sure off is between the PLL chip and high voltage side, as Zenlock has done here (top right of board)
The smaller chip F? P25AH I couldnt find any datasheet for.
I assume the PLL chip is for the samsung?
Id like to know what the area does ( around p25ah to the inverter circuit) before I cut between it :O

I dont intend to use the audio amp, but thats actually one part I did trace out - I was going to cut it off but for the space saving its not really worth it as you would need to trace out and relocate parts of the second regulator. I will likely desolder the chip rather than cut it out.

I plan to use one or two lm7805's mounted on the case instead of the pcb mounted ones, so that extra heat is not dumped on the pcb, I noticed that it can affect the picture.

I still need to get a 7.5v regulator for the car, not sure what is best? I may have a lm7808 somewhere...

For the screen, Im going to remove the scratched antiglare.

Backlight will be 10+ SMD white leds, they wont be on full, but it will help get an even picture. Im going to test it using resistors for 100ma total, I think it will be bright enough... but I need to buy them first :O


Thanks

one of the links doesnt work.

Nice tutorial.

Anybody wanna give/sell me their psone screen case?:p