'AV cable' for ps2 version
pin #, color, description
8, black (outer coax), composite vid gnd
6, black (inner coax), comp. video
2, red w/black stripe, R audio
4, red w/white stripe, L audio
1 & 3, white, audio gnd

Control board connector
orange: wall wart tip/power (12-20VDC)
green: wall wart ring/gnd also audio gnd
Control board soldered wires (other side)
white: R audio
red: L audio
black: audio gnd

Video board/control board connector

n/c
grey \
grey - adjust common
grey /
n/c
n/c
black: brightness wiper
yellow: contrast wiper
white: saturation wiper
purple: adjust common #2
yellow: composite video
brown: video gnd
n/c
black: power gnd
red: 12-20VDC power from wall wart when turned on

Control board power:
TDA2822 is STA 1W headphone/audio amp, requires 6-12VDC
7808 is 8V regulator. desoldering/clipping reduces power consumption by ~20mA

Video board power:
multiple regulators including boost for CCFL backlight (BA97XX dual PWM driver). since there is non-linear regulation, any voltage from 5-20V will be approximatly equiv. in power consumption. Except for LM117 (SOT-223 in middle) which is a linear regulator and perhaps some other, unlabled linear regulators.
due to linear regulators, lower voltages will tend to give slighly higher efficiency.
required power:
5V @ 350mA = 1.75W
6V @ 300mA = 1.8W
9V @ 210mA = 1.9W
10V @ 190mA = 1.9W
12V @ 160mA = 1.9W
14V@ 150mA = 2.1W
etc.

Add 20mA if using 7808/audio amp, more if speakers are actually playing.

(for example if coupling with 'power player' which requires 50mA @ 5V, either use lithium ion battery, and boost to 5V, or use 4 nimh and connect directly, or use 4 alkaline and LDO to 5V for nintendo chip. Assuming no audio, 1.5Ah lipoly battery @ 3.7 = 5W after 90% efficiency conversion -> 2.5Hr game play. 4xAlkaline @ 3Ah -> 7Hr. 4xNiMH @ 2Ah -> 5Hr)

ladyada (a) media,mit,edu

So the screen can run on less then 8v? If thats the case that changes everything. I could easily use that on one of my NOACs I have. Thanks for submitting all that useful info.

Thanks for the info. This should provide a fairly nice source of cheap screens then.

Should this be stickied? One of the noobish questions you always hear is "CAn I use On of Theos screeN coNtroOler th1ngs???"

Just a question. If I were to remove the 7808 regulator and use just power straight from batteries I wouldnt have any problem(s)? I'd like to get it hooked up to either my NOAC or one of my PSOnes.

Can the board with the adjustment knobs be tossed? That would mean I'd just be left with the board that connects to the LCD.

There shouldnt be any problems.

noacs are small do bouth.. i was just looking over that and i might just save my second hip gear screen and make my GOAC and NOAC in one console.

with the second one since its a pritty good 2" screen i might make it in to a personal media device... to bad the nano is not comming here till spring. but ill rig up the head set any ways

i actually rebuilt the contrast/color/etc board but from what i remember, when i disconnected it, it looked pretty good by default.

the 7808 does not connect to the screen at all, its only for the audio amp

there are more images at
http://www.media.mit.edu/~ladyada/make/gamegrrl/fab

game grrl posibly game girl. Oh crap we have a girl in our midst.

ummm...it took you that long to notice?
http://web.media.mit.edu/~ladyada/bio/index.html

Uh 5 days maybe a week

You got some awesome stuff. I like the nixie clock.

You only just realised that?

Ladyada you quite a few pics. I noticed you rebuilt the contoller board with only 3 nobs, did you just leave the color one out?

So after I remove/chip the regulator I just put power in to the red line? If thats the case then this shouldnt take long. Also I'm just making sure as I hate to waste things so I'm just covering my back.

That clock looks pretty cool, I like the look of diamond plate.

Here's the parts and what they connect to from what I can tell.
3 2.2kOhm resistors "1 to adjust common 2"
1 1KOhm resistor "adjust common"
1 4.7KOhm resistor
2 10KOhm Pots "Contrast & Saturation"
1??Ohm Pot "Brightness"


Kinda hard to tell exactly from the pictures though

Edit:
I just realized she used a strip board and not bread board, so the connections are a bit more clear.

Edit again:
I think this is pretty accurate, but I'm not certain.