If you're making a portable you probably need something to watch it on. (Unless you want to guess what's happening in the game, but I wouldn't advise that) Anyway, this forum is your "Hacking a pocket TV/screen" one-stop solution. Share your experiences and knowledge here.
+Draws 300ma under a load. (240ma standby)
+Should run on anything between 5v and 12v. I have confirmed that it runs on 7.2v and 5v though.
+LED backlit!
+PCB is the same size as the LCD
One thing i noticed is when I played a Dvd (after playing mk64 and GH ), the letters at the menu screen were a little fuzzy on the edges.
Super Cameraman wrote:I don't understand what headphone switch means on the PSone screen diagram. Is there a physical switch on the screen or something?
If the headphone switch is signaled (headphones plugged in), the speakers are turned off and sound comes out of headphones... otherwise sound would come out of both speakers and headphones. Make sense?
+Draws 300ma under a load. (240ma standby)
+Should run on anything between 5v and 12v. I have confirmed that it runs on 7.2v and 5v though.
+LED backlit!
+PCB is the same size as the LCD
One thing i noticed is when I played a Dvd (after playing mk64 and GH ), the letters at the menu screen were a little fuzzy on the edges.
Idk anything about it, but it sounds good for LED backlit and same size PCB. Idk if it's worth it though compared to PSone screen.
+Draws 300ma under a load. (240ma standby)
+Should run on anything between 5v and 12v. I have confirmed that it runs on 7.2v and 5v though.
+LED backlit!
+PCB is the same size as the LCD
One thing i noticed is when I played a Dvd (after playing mk64 and GH ), the letters at the menu screen were a little fuzzy on the edges.
Idk anything about it, but it sounds good for LED backlit and same size PCB. Idk if it's worth it though compared to PSone screen.
Id say its best for a n64 or ps1 portable, I wouldnt use it on anything less because of what I call, "solid color syndrome" Multiple vertical lines a little lighter then the solid color.
+Draws 300ma under a load. (240ma standby)
+Should run on anything between 5v and 12v. I have confirmed that it runs on 7.2v and 5v though.
+LED backlit!
+PCB is the same size as the LCD
One thing i noticed is when I played a Dvd (after playing mk64 and GH ), the letters at the menu screen were a little fuzzy on the edges.
Idk anything about it, but it sounds good for LED backlit and same size PCB. Idk if it's worth it though compared to PSone screen.
Id say its best for a n64 or ps1 portable, I wouldnt use it on anything less because of what I call, "solid color syndrome" Multiple vertical lines a little lighter then the solid color.
Could you elaborate on this "solid color syndrome"? I'm considering using this screen in a SNES portable.
I am currently working on a NESp project, using a PSone screen. I had about 90% of the wiring done (the controller was not fully wired) and had the screen powering up just fine, although a little dull. So I finalized the wiring and everything looked great. I moved my workspace a few feet over and accidentally unwired one connection to the 1/8" mono jack with 5 connections (only 4 of the connections are used in this project FYI). I accidentally re-wired to the other solder point of the mono jack when testing the portable out again and when the game loaded up, the screen flashed white. Now whenever I power up the console the screen will eventually brighten up until it becomes almost completely white. Is something wired incorrectly, or did I screw the screen up previously?
Hopefully someone who frequents this thread has some idea on what I should do to fix my PSone screen.
Once upon a time I found ben's somewhat forgotten brightness hack, and had to find the PAL spot. I forgot to disclose this information at the time, but I am doing so now:
), the letters at the menu screen were a little fuzzy on the edges.
