Well I have a terrible cold and couldn't sleep last night. So I sat there at my modding station looking at some stuff I had lying around.

Hmmmm SuperPad64 ..... Hmmm Gamecube analog stick...... Yea let's do that.

I forgot to take a pic of the controllers outside before I started.
But this is the same controller I used minus the turbo buttons (pic borrowed, if it's a problem PM me) :



Here is what the analog stick looks like on the inside:



Here it is with the new GameCube analog stick in it. Notice how I mounted it. Superglued and hot glued a small strip of plastic on the top half to get the stick the right height. Then superglue , hotglue on the bottom. Wiring was simple red / orange / black across the top three solder pads on the top pot, and brown on the middle pad of the right side pot. All the other connections for the pots are already connected on the pcb the same way as the original stick.



I used the original thumbstick retaining piece from the Superpad. I cut the middle out then hand filed it to the perfect round shape/size :







Overall it turned out quite nice. Feels much better on the thumb than the other stick.

Now I am very tired and might go back to bed. LOL

Is it even POSSIBLE to do this without any soldering or anything? Just opening the controllers and connecting this wire to this wire? (that was an example)

You didn't keep the not-round eight-way thing around the joystick?
That thing pisses me off so much normally, but it's really helpful with emulators. (I think... I don't have any GC controllers without one, so...)

edit: I forgot to mention that I also hate the way those SuperPads look. It just looks so uncomfortable to use the analog stick. I like my really fat regular Nintendo 64-shaped SuperPad better.

No you have to solder 4 wires.



No I didn't keep the surround for the Gc stick. They are built in the GC controllers, no way to move it to the N64 controller.

It is far more comfortable than the N64 oem controller.

I know that it's built in to GC controllers, but the pic you showed of a regular Super Pad had it too, and I know that my official controllers and my Super Pad have it. And, what's an oem?

No that is a much different surround. It only has a small hole at the bottom for the N64 stick to go through. There's no way the fat Gc stick would fit through it. Not possible.

Oem is original equipment manufacturer, it means the official controller from Nintendo.

Actually I was talking about a different Super Pad, not the first-party controllers. But I actualy like the first-party controllers better than my Super Pad, so whatever.

forgot to add the file, sorry. (i don't know why this post showed up second, since it was the first one, but whatever)

does this only work with the gamecube stick on a green circuit board? Mine was on a white one (official Nintendo one, case was orange) and I have tried this mod on three different third party controllers and didn't work any of the times either on the C-stick nor on the grey stick. The three controllers I have tried it on are the SuperPad64 Plus, like the one hailrazer did, the regular SuperPad64, like the one smitty has a pic of, and the retrobit SuperPad, the one used in this guide http://kyorune.com/modding/article.php?id=82 . If anyone can help me I will be very happy.

The Gamecube sticks with the white board works perfectly to. I use them in my N64 portables with a Superpad board.

Same wiring as the one I used in this mod.

That Superpad is much improved by swapping out the joystick, moving it to the d-pad location, and rewiring the L and Z buttons. Also, hot glue the Z trigger if it hasn't already broke.

I just rewired the joystick using the retro bit and it still didn't work. but when I touch the two pins with my finger, they do what they're supposed to do. does this mean theyre's a problem with my joystick and I need a new one? what troubles me is that I get the same result on both the C-stick AND the regular joystick.

Don't know might be a bad connection or a bad stick. Start a thread about it.

Little bump here for probably a noob question (sorry :/)

I'm attempting at doing this mod with the SuperPad 64 (by Performance) same one as the black one in the picture above. When rewiring the GC c-stick to the super pad, is it ok to just rip off the 4 white wires that connect the C-stick board to the main GC controller board? And then just solder the wires from the superpad onto the bottom of the C-stick board?

Also my superpad looks like it's wired kind weird when I compare it to other diagrams I've seen on here... the VG1 (ground) black wire is attached to the one edge of the y axis, and instead of the wire branching off, it has a separate small wire that is soldered to the same pin, and then the other end to the x axis. Will this change anything when I have to rewire the c-stick to it or do I do it exactly how it looked when the superpad stick was attached?

I cut the octagonal plastic guide that goes around the original stick so that there's no middle piece - just the octagonal guide for the joystick and used a bit of krazy glue to fix it onto the front of the controller casing and fixed the z-button that broke years ago.. I just need to find a GC controller now to get the c-stick out of and figure out how to hold it all inside and remount the Z button. I went to the nearest Gamestop earlier today and bought a used 3rd party GC controller that looked fine... it had a turbo button on the front and i plugged it into my cube and it doesn't even work ..... buttons only work when the controller is tilted a certain way and the sticks dont work at all so now I gotta go back there tomorrow and probably pick up a Nintendo brand used one probably.. but gonna make them test it before selling me a piece of junk that doesn't work. Anyone done this mod with sticks from 3rd party GC controllers?
Thanks.

Yes



I did this with the same controller you have and it worked (check attached pic for working diagram) but you have to make sure that the x axis is on top. For some reason it doesn't work if it's on bottom.



It doesn't work with certain 3rd party sticks. The resistances of the potentiometers is different but you could go ahead and try it