Well of course you don't need two L buttons, if you don't want to make it symmetrical. With regular N64 you hold your fingers almost allways on Z and R, which makes them "main" shoulder buttons so atleast I position them to "main" places in my portable. While L being not so important I locate under Z so it's on the left hand as normal. Then it's unsymmetrical (which is TERRIBLE) so I locate one L to Right also!

Well, I've held one, and then made another one like it because I liked the case.

SS

Well, that would explain it. But how are you getting shorts? How much bare wire do you have next to your solder joints? Or is it that the insulation is broken?




XCVG- I had some alligator clips laying around, so I used some spare wire to make some leads. With a clamp on each end, you can put one end on your multimeter's normal leads and use the other end as your probes. Or, if you need more precision probes, just put the clamps on one end, strip and twist an inch or so of the bare wire, and tin it with solder so the strands don't unravel.

You can see from the proportion of the visible PSone screen area the case isn't big. 214mm wide. 54mm from far edge to edge of screen. Small enough to be easy to hold, but big enough to position buttons and controls nicely so they aren't crammed.

It is strong, with perspex inside the perimeter to reinforce, as per my guide, top has no flex and solid, bottom has very little flex if any. Solid.

All those fricking little tiny wires somehow manage to touch other wires, no matter how hard I try

Argh, all the responses, which I have to respond to!



Ah, I get it now. But with my plan I can use really cool triggers for Z. And to me it's less confusing. To each their own.



Okay, I'll consider the ZN45 as well.

Okay, that's what I was starting to think about too.



Ah, ok. Add IntoPlay to the list.



I'm probably going to use solid wires.



Currently I'm looking at 3 case options: IntoPlay, ZN40, and ZN45. I'll probably use the ZN40 but it depends on how things work out.

The wires in your controller cable are fine for cart relocation; flexible and free as you already have them.

Worked on the YAP64 at robotics club today. Didn't have enough time to relocate the cart slot. Removed the ports, bypassed power switch.

I don't think I killed my N64 but I may have. When I plugged in the PSU the light just flashed. I realized I forgot the jumper pack and put it in. It still blinked. It turns out the 3.3V and 12V wires were touching. I think the light blinked because the PSU shut down, or something. So I may have fried my 64.

If the light isn't turning on, then just wait 2 days then plug it back in, make sure you fixed the connections though. The n64 actually goes into a sleep mode like thing to save it from frying itself. It worked for me.

No, the odd thing is that the light DOES turn on. I can't test it until I relocate the cart slot. I can't relocate the cart slot until Thursday. Therefore, I can't test until Thursday.

I'm probably going to get a PTH08000 from another member. That takes care of power. I still have to get a PSone screen, or a Zenith screen. Got to order a ZN40 case, that's what I've decided on. Lame, boring, that's me. But it's (kinda) practical, and that's what counts for me. Need to buy a controller, and maybe some squishy tacts. I've heard the Yobo controller is good and cheap.

All right, try this trick first, remove game and jumper pak, power on for 5 seconds insert jumper pak, turn on for five seconds, the turn off and insert the game. If this doesn't work try it a few more times. If it doesn't work then do what I said earlier, I'm not sure if it works when the light turns on. But it might, so just wait 2 days and try.

Is this your first portable? Fitting everything inside of the case is a lot harder than a person would think.

Yeah, I know, it'll probably end up with a gigantic lump on the back. Also dimensions are deceiving, so maybe I'll go with a ZN45.

Decided that I'll probably go with a ZN45. If it's too big I'll trim it somehow. Also, I'm going to have to take off my composite video temporary-connection-cable, I think it needs a capacitor and a resistor. Inside a gamecube AV cable is a 220uF capacitor inline, and an unknown resistor that goes to ground.

EDIT: Resistor is 75 ohms.

I think the n64 sleeping is just the capacitors charged up, right? And waiting for it to stop sleeping is just waiting for the capacitors to discharge right? Could you take a LED and just drain each one?

I know yours isn't sleeping, I'm just posting it because its relevant. ish.

SS