n64 portable question topic

[Cojiro]

Hey guys I needed to get a topic where I could ask questions about building a portable N64, so I don't have to start a new topic every time I ask a question. If anyone else has a random question about their project, then you are more than welcome to use this topic to ask the question.

My first question is, can you disconnect the LED on the n64, or does it need to be connected to run? (I'm afraid to test this, because with my luck the thing would fry)
thanks

[evilteddy]

From memory the LED is parrallel to the 3.3V line and can be removed. Think of it logically, if all it took to destory an n64 was a blown LED then that wouldn't be very good design.

[spdreader]

Good luck on it, I'm planning on starting one soon also.
When I do build one, I'm wondering if there is any reason not to add controller ports for multiplayer via RJ-45(ethernet cable and connectors) based dongles. Just putting 2 controller plugins each on 2 ethernet cables (since each cable has 6 wires, and the controllers have 3). it would use minimal space, and still allow multipayer. (If this is unclear, I can put up a pic later).

[bassmasta]

Good luck on it, I'm planning on starting one soon also.
When I do build one, I'm wondering if there is any reason not to add controller ports for multiplayer via RJ-45(ethernet cable and connectors) based dongles. Just putting 2 controller plugins each on 2 ethernet cables (since each cable has 6 wires, and the controllers have 3). it would use minimal space, and still allow multipayer. (If this is unclear, I can put up a pic later).

Actually, there are 8 wires per cable in an ethernet cable. You need 9 wires for a breakout box: 4 power lines, 4 data lines, and one common ground (all the grounds wired together). Serial ports work great for this. Then you can use a 3 pin 3.5mm headphone jack for audio/video out.
For portable to portable multiplayer, there is LOB64, which uses ethernet jacks and there should be some good diagrams of. However, LOB64 doesn't provide controller power.

[limpport]

Good luck on it, I'm planning on starting one soon also.
When I do build one, I'm wondering if there is any reason not to add controller ports for multiplayer via RJ-45(ethernet cable and connectors) based dongles. Just putting 2 controller plugins each on 2 ethernet cables (since each cable has 6 wires, and the controllers have 3). it would use minimal space, and still allow multipayer. (If this is unclear, I can put up a pic later).

Actually, there are 8 wires per cable in an ethernet cable. You need 9 wires for a breakout box: 4 power lines, 4 data lines, and one common ground (all the grounds wired together). Serial ports work great for this. Then you can use a 3 pin 3.5mm headphone jack for audio/video out.
For portable to portable multiplayer, there is LOB64, which uses ethernet jacks and there should be some good diagrams of. However, LOB64 doesn't provide controller power.

Are you sure you need 4 power lines? I was thinking of it this way:

1 power line
1 ground line
3 data lines (player 1 would just use the portables controls)
1 video line
2 audio lines (L and R)

I don't know how much wire the video line would be able to go through and still display clearly.

[bassmasta]

Are you sure you need 4 power lines?

You know, I don't know. Has anyone tested running 3 controllers off of the player 2 line?

[spdreader]

Thanks for the responses. I was actually going to use 2 lines, one for players 1 and 2, and the other for 3 and 4. As for the the 6-wire ethernet cable, I guess I had a brain fart. When my parts come, I'll start a WIP thread, but until then, I don't want to clog this one up too much.

[Basement_Modder]

Are you sure you need 4 power lines?

You know, I don't know. Has anyone tested running 3 controllers off of the player 2 line?

They're all connected anyway.

3.3v from regulator=3.3v for RCP=3.3v for CPU=3.3v for player 1=3.3v for player 2, etc.

It's fine. An N64 controller draws ≤550mA when pressing buttons, and ≤100mA when idle.

[Cojiro]

okay new question: i just did the psone screen mod and the only problem is.... this. sorry about the picture being really dark, but at the left side of the screen, there are 4 columns of pixels that are completely white. does anybody know what could be causing this?

[marshallh]

Check your ribbon cable is seated correctly, check the board over for smaller solder flakes

It looks like you may have ripped the flex cable from the edge of the LCD glass when you had it out.

[Cojiro]

if that is the case, is there any chance of me repairing it? and if not, would it hurt the screen to leave it like it is? (it wouldn't kill me to turn a 5" screen into a 4.75" screen)

[tsukasa]

Are you sure you need 4 power lines?

You know, I don't know. Has anyone tested running 3 controllers off of the player 2 line?

They're all connected anyway.

3.3v from regulator=3.3v for RCP=3.3v for CPU=3.3v for player 1=3.3v for player 2, etc.

It's fine. An N64 controller draws ≤550mA when pressing buttons, and ≤100mA when idle.

The controller ports are fused at the connectors, correct? I haven't looked into the fuse ratings, but if you were run multiple controllers off a single port, I'm betting you'd blow the fuse. Better bet would be to power your dongle off the 3.3V rail, and then put the controller fuses inside your dongle box. If you put just one massive fuse between your dongle and the 3.3V rail, you'd be at risk when you're not using all 4 controllers.

[Basement_Modder]

copulate the fuses. The 3.3v in your portable is stable enough to make them useless. Plus, the fuses are rated to take way more of a beating than one controller provides. Hell, they could probably handle the draw of 5 controllers without blowing.

[tsukasa]

copulate the fuses. The 3.3v in your portable is stable enough to make them useless. Plus, the fuses are rated to take way more of a beating than one controller provides. Hell, they could probably handle the draw of 5 controllers without blowing.

I was looking at it more from a 'protect the 3.3V rail from shorts' perspective, since a short would fry your rcp and cpu.

I must not understand how fuses work then, I apologize.

[Basement_Modder]

copulate the fuses. The 3.3v in your portable is stable enough to make them useless. Plus, the fuses are rated to take way more of a beating than one controller provides. Hell, they could probably handle the draw of 5 controllers without blowing.

I was looking at it more from a 'protect the 3.3V rail from shorts' perspective, since a short would fry your rcp and cpu.

I must not understand how fuses work then, I apologize.

No need. Fuses are like a backup plan. If voltage spikes to a point where it can fry the fused component, the fuse "blows," protecting the component. (at this point, you would need to replace the said fuse.

Static can also kill fuses, which is why you always flip the power switch on consoles and computers to "discharge" all the caps before opening it and causing potential shorts/ static buildup.