um according to this topic, I want to know he he found some stuff out of it
point in being this paragraph,
step 3 - reallocating regulator board
this step will let you join back the regulator board to the Gc by wires and allowing a very slim design for a portable, how long the wires will be depends of the place you will want to allocate the parts into the portable case. there are different ways to do this . (Note, if your gamecube don´t have a regulator board under the Motherboard,It means it is integrated, and seems you can skip this step)
DEFAULT WAY : wire all pins
Custom way: This options give the gamecube power on only by 5 wires!
less soldering, more free espace inside
pin 22 of the regulator board have 5v, and pins 22 and 11 from the motherboard need it, just "bridge" (join with soldering iron) the pins 22 and 11 from the motherboard and connect them to the pin 22 of the regulator board using a wire.
the pin 21 of the regulator board gives 12v and the pin 10 of the motherboard needs 12v, just connect it using a wire
the pin 12 of the regulator board give "ground" and pin 1 of the motherboard needs ground, just connect then (use a fat wire at this step cause lot of power need pass through, other member and me noticed video problems if not doing this)
bridge pins 16,17 and 18 at regulator board, and wire them to pins 6,7,16,17,18,19 of the motherboard wich need o be bridged to the system get 3,4v
bridge pins 2 and 13 from the MOBO and wire them to pin 13 of the regulator board to the system get 5v
im somewhat confused on how he actually figured out what pin was what, i et that there numbered but i mean what did he do to iure this info out it doesnt tell you so yeah
also on the heat sink on top of the mother board i screwed it off and it keeps and slipping off, theres this gray stickiy rubber glue on the bottom, is there a way i can buy more of this stuff to refasten the heat sink on top of everything, cause like i said the thing wont stay put