Limpport's NESp worklog (BACK FROM THE GRAVE!)

[limpport]

So after spending days tacking my brain and designing an NESp laptop case, I've decided to scrap that idea. It was going to be way thicker than I wanted, and I did NOT want to do a cartridge slot relocation . So with that in mind, I've got a case design without a relocation, and it is (nearly) ready to go to the CNC.

Here's the front and side views:



The sidewalls/cartridge walls (3/4" thick):



Front/Back plates along with cartridge plates (1/8" thick):


^These are all done in Adobe Illustrator. Each large square is 1"x1". So the unit is 7-7/8" x 6". It is 2-1/8" thick, but the part you hold will be only about an inch thick.

I was going to do the sidewalls out of 3 pieces at 1/4" thick, but I think it will look nicer as a solid piece. It was also going to be cheaper that way too. I found a website that has acrilic plexi with a color mirror finish, so I was thinking red for all the 1/8" plates except the small plate over the buttons. That would be in gold. The website is Delvie's Plastics Inc.

I also have a cutout in the plate to cover the cartridge so you can see the whole label of the NES cartridge. The parts that says "Nintendo" will be speaker holes, but I may just go with a bunch of holes instead.

My only question is..... What filetype will these need to be in that a CNC machine will understand? I can save it as .eps, .ait, .pdf, .svgz, and .svg. Will one of those work?

[eurddrue]

Nice! It actually kinda remins me of ben's work...

[arfink]

cool design, can't wait to see how that looks.

[limpport]

So I just downloaded the CNC files for Ben's CNC NESp, and the .eps filetype was there. Will .eps work for a CNC machine, or are those just to print as reference?

[Life of Brian]

I love your design, especially the plate that goes on top.

Edit: Well, now you've gone and done it - you got me thinking about how nice it would be to have case parts cut by some local laser engraving business. I did some searching and found one very very close to me.

I'm looking forward to seeing your case when it comes back from the shop!

[limpport]

Edit: Well, now you've gone and done it - you got me thinking about how nice it would be to have case parts cut by some local laser engraving business. I did some searching and found one very very close to me.

My bad

So hopefully I can get some plexi from Tibia, and get the case cut. I have these 3mm led's coming in the mail. They are 6000mcd. Would 4 in a PSone screen be too much? What kind of resistance would I need? I used this handy little LED wizard with 5v in, 2.8v, and 20mA. It said each LED would need a 120 ohm resistor. Would it make more sense to use a single larger resistor?

[eurddrue]

Edit: Well, now you've gone and done it - you got me thinking about how nice it would be to have case parts cut by some local laser engraving business. I did some searching and found one very very close to me.

My bad

So hopefully I can get some plexi from Tibia, and get the case cut. I have these 3mm led's coming in the mail. They are 6000mcd. Would 4 in a PSone screen be too much? What kind of resistance would I need? I used this handy little LED wizard with 5v in, 2.8v, and 20mA. It said each LED would need a 120 ohm resistor. Would it make more sense to use a single larger resistor?

If you wire your LEDs in parallel, you have to put a resistor in front of each one. *waits for Rekarp to throw more logic his way*

[DopestKidEva]

Ben only used one resistor in his book. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try.

[limpport]

If you wire your LEDs in parallel, you have to put a resistor in front of each one. *waits for Rekarp to throw more logic his way*

Here's what that site gave:


I also found this:


Which would I be better off using?

[marshallh]

Unless all of your LEDs have the EXACT same atomic structure, you'll need a resistor in series with each one.

Read this
http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=27286" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[eurddrue]

If you wire your LEDs in series though, then you can use just one resistor. I can't remember where I read that though, so no source.

[limpport]

Unless all of your LEDs have the EXACT same atomic structure, you'll need a resistor in series with each one.

Read this
http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=27286" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That makes sense. Plus, it's a lot easier to get resistors at exactly 120Ω rather than 27.5Ω (or using 33Ω). Is 4 led's at 6000 mcd too much for a maximum brightness? I was going to use a pot for brightness adjustment, but does anyone know how to use the tact switches already on the PS1 screen?

[eurddrue]

I use 8k MCD, and they're just fine. At 100 percent in the dark though, my eyes can't take it.

[limpport]

*slaps forehead* So the LED's came in today, so I got everything ready and set to go, soldering iron all warmed up, and I realised I had no resistors. I forgot to get them yesterday . But I found the LED's work perfectly for a Gamecube power light replacement!

So I tried to hook up the Yobo video/audio to the PS1 screen (wo/backlight). I can still see the onscreen volume/brightness adjustments, so I know the screen isn't totally dead. But I can't get it hooked up right. I know on the Yobo that the leftmost pin (looking from the top of the board) is the mono audio, and the next one to the right is the video. Where on the PS1 screen do these need to connect to?

[limpport]

So just great... I've got the PS1 screen modded with 4 led, but I'm pretty sure the Yobo died. I hooked it up to the PS1 screen, but it didn't turn on. I tried it on my TV, and it still didn't turn on. These things commonly break, right?

Oh, and I haven't gotten the case done yet. I'm going to wait until I get the guts working first.

So anyone have a working Yobo they want to sell me?